Ace-Garageguy

Tuna-jalapeno-tomato sandwich on crusty pumpernickel with an icy-cold Red Stripe. Fresh strawberries for dessert. Mmmmmm mmmmmm good.

Donna Reed.

All. Old. Red cars. Look the same.

Probably why I don't have much use for people who live vicariously. Second-hand emotions: why bother? Probably also why I have no use for "reality" TV that focuses on grown men behaving like babies instead of the hard-core guts of the work.

That is the best job I've ever seen done with this kit. Very very nice.

Wow. I'm not easily offended, but as somebody who has actually strapped his backside in a racing car, and who has built and prepped them, that made me pretty angry. Anybody who gets off on seeing other people injured (or is excited by the prospect) is a sociopath. While it may be true that there are some in the audience who get their jollies hoping for their second-hand thrill when a driver has a problem, ringing pathetic little dwerps' bells isn't why the sport exists...that's not why the drivers are there. And anyone who isn't heartbroken seeing a finely-crafted racing machine destroyed just doesn't get it. Period.

Well, as they say, "your results may vary". Seriously, try one. Theo said he got good results. Maybe I got a series of bad units. Maybe somebody in the store had already sprayed out half the propellant, or maybe they'd been on the shelf forever and leaked-down (the last several I tried were delivered directly from a bodyshop supply outlet). Honestly, now that I really think about it, it seems like the FIRST time I used one, over 25 years ago, it worked pretty well. Last time I tried one was in about 2007, and I wasn't happy at all...and vowed never-again. It looks like you can get a 2-pack for around $11, so that's not a huge investment for experimenting (though by the time you have mixing paint to the right viscosity dialed in, you might be out of pressure). If it's possible to swap the nozzles with Tamiya rattlecan nozzles, that might be an improvement too.

I LIKE it.

I've tried 'em several times over the years hoping for good results. Nah. In a pinch, where you just HAVE to be able to spray something, well, maybe. Like the man says...NOT a substitute for an airbrush, and really not as good as many rattlecans. Of course, my remarks are based on expecting a show-quality finish when I'm done. If mediocre, average results rock your world, rock on.

Yeah, I agree. Had to get more benches...

Oops...I thought the heading was "outrage" there for a minute.

Yup. Not "crushes", but I think very few today even come close to these women.

Somebody probly annoyed about getting charged for cutting a cake...

You could always make it a big RC kinda thing. Then the legions of 350 pound internet warriors with lightning-fast fingers could be the new heroes. Perfect fit for a risk-averse society that is predominantly WAY out of shape, and prefers pretend to reality...well insulated from anything "dangerous".

Hopefully I'll come back as something like that in my next life. It's obviously not as fast as it will probably be once it learns how to be a race car, but I think it's beyond cool, and strikingly beautiful too.

Dangity dang dang. That's a lot of danged spoons.

I've been away from drag racing for many years, so anybody PLEASE feel free to correct me. That said, I THINK the shot below shows the basic setup that came AFTER the torsion-bar suspended dropped axle in your first photo. This setup has no spring medium. The axle is solidly mounted to the frame by bolts, brackets, and links. The upper link adjusts caster. The frame can be extended to carry the fuel tank forward of the axle. Modern funny front suspension. No actual "suspension".

That's a nice pair there. Both icons of hot-rod history, and both very rarely seen modeled. Sweet.

San Francisco high-rise has sunk 16 inches since completion in 2009, and is leaning 15 inches too. Pretty special. Erected on compacted mud, apparently the developers felt driving pilings to solid bedrock was a silly old-fashioned waste of money. Built for $350 million (and it could have taken $20 to $50 million more to drive piles to bedrock) it may take $500 million MORE to fix it. Kinda the GM approach to engineering: build it wrong to save a buck, fix it later for at least ten times the cost it would have been to do it right the first time, and pay out millions of dollars MORE in lawsuits. I'm impressed. NOTE: The bedrock in the area is said to be 400 feet down. A piling driven to that depth, capable of supporting around 200 tons, would cost something like $16,000 (very rough napkin calculations, based on cost to drive similar pilings to 125 feet). I'm sure there's a civil or construction engineer who can guesstimate the weight of the building, wind loads, etc. and who knows what percentage of the total would be considered adequate for pilings to carry. https://sf.curbed.com/2018/4/16/17242450/millennium-tower-sinking-repair-tilting-building-san-francisco

This may be as close to finished as these ever get. You just never know. Buick nailhead powered, on a '32 frame: Late pre-war dry-lakes runner. Hot 4-cylinder power: Post-war dry-lakes runner. Ardun Ford V8 power: Traditional A-V8 full-fendered roadster:

A stock '32 Ford frame looks like this. Note the crossmember design and orientation. (The front and rear frame ends have been cut off.) If you want to convert the Revell '32 Ford frame to earlier "traditional" stock suspension, you will need to change the rear crossmember to something like is shown above. This can be scratch-built, or swapped from another frame. Once you do that. you can use the "traditional" stock rear suspension from the Monogram kits shown above. On the other hand, if you want to run a "quick-change" style rear end, still suspended from a "traditional" transverse buggy-spring, you will need to change the rear crossmember to the style shown below, with an appropriate spring from a model A or a model T. In front, besides using a "dropped" axle to lower the car, the front crossmember may also be changed to something that raises the spring mounting point relative to the chassis, thereby lowering the car further. This is still entirely "traditional".

The Revell kit you're starting with has a floor molded with the frame, but the Monogram kits shown above have the frame molded as part of the fender assemblies.

He's building the Revell '32 5-window, which has a completely separate frame...just like the rest of the Revell 1/25 '32 lineup. The other kit was posted as a source of earlier style suspension parts.