Monty

The kit I got from ebay didn't have them, which to me wasn't a big deal given their age and likelihood of falling apart. Anyone offer them in multiple colors on one sheet? I still haven't decided what color to paint this new one, so options would be nice. For example, you could make a case for doing this car in red with white stripes. I've also seen black cars with red stripes etc.

I'm really enjoying seeing all the fabrication and innovation going on in this thread. Once completed, this will be an outstanding build. Quick question: what did you use to bend the brass that precisely. I've got a GM car that really needs a better rear sway bar, and it looks like you've mastered the technique. PS As king of the rivet counters, I'm beggin' ya to get rid of the raised lettering on the chassis. My fingers keep clawing at my monitor

In theory it seems like it should be an easy swap, but I'd prefer to know if there are any fit issues etc that will need to be addressed to make everything work together. Also, not knowing a thing about Oldsmobiles, is the AMT engine correct for this swap, and what color should it be? Seems like there's a lot of contention about whether they're blue, gold or copperish gold.

One of the 1:1 car forums I'm on has a political section that includes a long-running meme thread. I love making memes but a great one requires a fantastic picture to start with. (Gene Wilder's sneering Willy Wonka is a personal favorite) I've noticed lately that almost none of the images I sourced and tried to copy to my "pictures" actually appears there. I just get a blank white square. The process still works occasionally, as I've captured numerous images for this board via this method, but being technically deficient, I can't figure out why this is happening.

Here's what's sad: It's a small package containing resin & P/E air cleaner components. Not a whole lot to inspect, or whatever it is they do. Hope they can figure out a way to get it out of there quickly, although now I don't have a lot of hope.

You may be on to something. Apparently nothing has happened since 6/5/22: June 5, 2022, 5:34 pmProcessed Through FacilityISC CHICAGO IL (USPS) Your item has been processed through our facility in ISC CHICAGO IL (USPS) at 5:34 pm on June 5, 2022. Origin Post is Preparing Shipment

Just looking for clarification as to why this is allowed.

Can someone explain ebay's policy of allowing sellers to simply print a shipping label and list the product as "shipped" if it hasn't been handed off for delivery? That would almost be like me posting a message to the seller saying "IOU, please mark this as paid". I won an auction on 5/28, which I paid for that day. As described above, the shipping label was printed within a day of the transaction's end, but hasn't left his house. As I understand it, USPS will pick it up from your home once you've created the label. And yet... It's a JoHan kit I've wanted for some time, and I wonder if he's just being petulant because he only received two bids and didn't make the killing he was expecting. By means of contrast, I ordered some items from Hiroboy in Great Britain on the same day and they're already processing through a facility in Chicago.

The reason for posting this had nothing to do with making fun of people with hearing issues. If anything, some of us were curious as to why other members felt the need to list the passing of every "celebrity" in the last hundred years. Also, look at the phrase I quoted when I posted it. It mentions someone being dead for 70 years. "Generalissimo Francisco Franco is still dead" ties into that and at one time was a popular bit for Chevy Chase on SNL. I posted this version because I couldn't find one where he's the only person featured.

Another ebay shipping issue that makes me wonder. Doing some tracking on a part that should have been here today. As of 3:30 this morning it passed through a USPS hub 3 hours away. No record of it since.

Is cellulose another name for lacquer or... I assumed all my Humbrol paints were enamel. (I don't have any of their acrylics).

For simplicity's sake, we'll keep this within the realm of hobby paint that will be airbrushed. I'm considering Testors Burgundy Red for a future project, but having used it in the distant past, I know that it's lighter than the shade I want and it can be "splotchy". Can I make the color richer by adding Humbrol clear red to it before airbrushing. (I have the Humbrol clear red, and can get the Burgundy, but buying it will be contingent on the answers received here. Hence, no spoon tests)

Along those lines...

Google's a great resource, but in my mind firsthand knowledge from fellow hobbyists is better. For example, finding out that acrylic clears work well on enamel paint kinda surprised me since I once tried using an acrylic candy paint over an enamel base and it didn't work out well. Also, most of us knew or learned not to use a "real" lacquer over an enamel because it'll destroy the paint. Based on past experiences, I assumed it would be best to stay with one kind of paint (enamel, acrylic, lacquer) as much as possible. Glad to hear you've had good experiences with the Revell clears. The few bits of info I've found regarding their enamels indicate they're very well made.

The Testors / Model Master sprays I'd been using were usually decanted before use, but I'd vastly prefer to have any future clears in bottles. Looks like Revell offers a gloss clear and a matte clear (I assume flat). Anyone used them?

I'm running pretty low on these clears and was wondering what you guys are using to replace them. I work almost exclusively with enamels, if that matters. If possible, I'd like to stay with one mfr. Does Revell offer anything other than a gloss clear?

Thank you bigryan18! ?

Here's pretty much what I'm looking for Trying to keep the look kinda subtle, so I don't need anything higher than this. Links would be greatly appreciated.

This is going to be outstanding when done. May I ask what exact paint you're using (ex: Model Master #1614)?

Great backstory. I'd bet the majority of us have that steel-to-styrene connection, which you've pulled off masterfully. Glad to see this one cross the finish line.

This build has so many incredible features, but I'm intrigued by the amount of thought and effort that went into a part most of us would replicate by just using a decal. The license plates not only consist of multiple pieces, the back sides show the recessed characters. Phillips head screws were a nice touch, too.

I've never built in this scale, let alone in resin, so I went and dug up the WIP on this build (well worth reading) to see what all was involved in its coming together. And now I know. As the WIP thread demonstrates, this kit, with its low parts count, will require your "A" game to get great results. Even with good body prep, things like paint thickness can affect small but important aspects like headlight cover placement, while tiny (1/10 of an inch) driving lights will need to be carefully placed and 1/43 P/E wiper arms will need to be bent to shape. All in all, I'd say this is another small scale jewel.

I'm currently using a company that provides my internet, phone (land line) and cable service. About three years ago I tried to save money by changing my setup to very basic cable, but it didn't take that much off the bill. I'd love to drop the cable service since I gave up watching TV two years ago, but it's part of a package deal and can't be broken further down. Basically, I just want a reliable internet provider with decent rates. Is that possible?

IIRC the most recent release of the AMT '57 Ford had similar optional wheels.