Monty

Seems like 20 psi is a good starting point, but I've seen some people drop down to around 15 psi, and some go up around 25 psi (and occasionally higher). Is it based on the kind of paint being used? I normally use enamels, but occasionally drift over into lacquers and acrylics.

I really like where you're taking this. Love the paint! It struck me as being a color Chevy should have offered, but for some dumb reason didn't. The vinyl roof looks well done and and really sets that paint color off. Compliments also on the engine, interior and chassis. Looks like you ground the "hoses" off the inner fender, something I did on mine as well. Curious if you're thinking of some aftermarket wheels from back in the day.

Mark's ability to create incredible "regular scale" cars is no secret on here, but to do this level of work in this scale just leaves me shaking my head. IMO you can't fully appreciate the skill and creativity that went into this build until you go through the WIP section and learn how this all came together. Worth every second, guaranteed.

I know I've seen these for newer cars, but I'm hoping to find one that caters to older cars ('66 - '73 in my case). Basically I'd like to be able to see how cars would look with aftermarket wheels from back in the day, say 15" Cragars, 5-slots and Keystones for example. TIA for any info.

I'm almost at the point of risking my ability to post on here in order to fully express my true feelings about Testors shoddy quality. When I first heard they were discontinuing a number of their paints I went on a search for several shades I wanted to have on hand for future projects. The vast majority of these were only available in spray cans, which is where the quality issue lies. While searching through my spray can bins the other day, I noticed several new-ish (to me) Testors paint cans that had blown out at the bottom, leaving a huge chunk of congealed goo stuck to the can. Will I even be able to decant these for airbrush use? By way of contrast, I have a number of Tamiya spray cans that are over 10 years old and not a single one of them has any signs of blowing out.

I read a little further and saw where it says it has great adhesion, even on non-porous surfaces like ceramic and metal. Might work well with the right primer, but being a tightwad, that price kinda bothers me. I think some others on here have gotten good results using Anita's paint on model interiors etc. Best of luck with yours!

I came across these while searching for other paints. They seem to be high-end acrylics and they are definitely a little spendy (around $8.00 a bottle, so I'm hesitant to pull the trigger until I know how well they'd work on styrene. https://www.amazon.com/Jacquard-Products-Lumiere-Fabric-Paint/dp/B0027AAP06

I've seen some modelers use beading wire to create brake lines that run along the undercarriage, but I wasn't able to determine how they were anchoring them. I'd like the outcome to be prototypically correct, within reason. Pics would be great if ya got 'em.

Wow, I'm glad I opened this thread. A couple years back Micro-Mark used to sell a tool with a tiny suction cup at one end that would've been great for positioning headlights etc. Typically, once I decided to get one, they no longer offered it, and I couldn't find anything similar. Thanks for posting! Note to self: grab one of these now.

Since everyone seems to want to put you on the acrylics trail, I'll add some things you should know. 1) While it may be true that acrylics, being water-based, are somewhat easier to clean up, they can also be the hardest thing to clean out of an airbrush if they're not dealt with after shooting. Some (Tamiya) seem to spray better with their own reducer, as opposed to using water. 2) Acrylics also seem to the the worst at "tip-dry", which basically means paint dries at the tip of the airbrush, impairing spraying. I'm told that there are flow improvers that can remedy that. There are also retarders for acrylics that allow the paint to flow out more before drying, which can lessen the chances of orange peel in the paint. 3) Spoons are good for testing your paint mix, but IMHO cheap water bottles are better for practicing painting before starting on model bodies. This is also the time to learn what air pressure works best for the paint you're going to be spraying. 4) Not all acrylic primers are garbage. Badger's Stynylrez primers are highly rated and come in about 10 colors. Keep that in mind as primer colors can impact the shade of the top coat. For example, you probably wouldn't want to paint pearl white over a black primer. 5) As has been stated, Barbatos Rex is the king of YouTube hobby paint videos, and he has a bunch featuring acrylic paints, reducers and cleaners.

Interesting how many companies did 1/64 versions of that El Dorado. Model-wise, I'd kill to have the Johan '67 kit, but I don't have a spare $300.00 laying around. I didn't know Marx made a J-car. As a kid, one of the cars that came with my Hot Wheels set was a Spectra-flame red J-car. Loved that design.

You may have solved the mystery! The article mentions Playart (under a different brand name) being Woolworth's in-house 1/64 diecast line.

The video I was referring to was about another type of foil from Mig/Ammo. I can't seem to find it listed anywhere in the US.

These had a chassis. If memory serves, it was probably plastic. Again, these were slightly cheaper toy cars, but not nearly as bare-bones as Tootsietoys.

As a kid in the early '70s I had dozens of Hot Wheels, Matchbox, Johnny Lightning and a few other 1/64-ish diecast cars. At the time there was a lesser-known mfr that produced a line of 1/64 diecast cars and trucks sold at Woolworths, including a '67 - '70 Cadillac El Dorado (mine was lavender). They were decent but not quite the overall quality of the names above. (Definitely not Tomica or Corgi). I'm trying to figure out who it was, but not having much luck. I had other cars they made but the Cadillac was the only one I can recall. Any ideas?

That video was made very recently but in my searches, all the places that purported to have it in stock were in Europe. If one of you has better Google skills than I do, please post a link so anyone wishing to try it can buy some.

Did the convertible kit have a slightly different rear seat and interior panels to accommodate the folding top mechanism? (IIRC it's often referred to as a dog-leg or something like that). I realize most people wouldn't notice but was curious as to what's in the two kits.

Watch the video again. He put it directly over the two plastic "hands". It doesn't require a base black like Alclad. All the links are at the bottom of the page.

If you're still hesitant about BMF, this stuff seems to be a decent substitute for doing trim work. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Gm-tLtjvQs Problem: I can't seem to find anybody in the US who carries it.

The OP was pretty specific about wanting to avoid doing that: Masking around these areas and spraying the chrome silver is not an option at this point (the tape would have to go over some decals that have been applied and I am worried about damaging them).

Not sure what you have against Molotow, but here are some other ideas, in no particular order, that should work well for doing chrome trim. 1) Model Master Stainless Steel (buffable). Your biggest problem will be finding this paint, especially in the jars, as Testors discontinued the MM line awhile back. I mention it because (IIRC) most "chrome trim" on cars is just stainless steel, as opposed to bigger pieces like bumpers, which are chrome-plated steel. 2) Green Stuff Chrome. Watch this video starting at 8:53. This reviewer does extensive testing of all kinds of model paint, but almost all are for air brushing. In this video he mentions that Green Stuff offers one "chrome" for airbrushing and one for regular brushing. Pay attention to the technique he recommends, 'cuz you won't like the results otherwise. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyEoYSePYFI HTH

Gotta agree with the compliments posted above. Also glad to hear you didn't have issues fitting the grille, as many other builders have listed that as one of the kit's major failings. My I ask what you used to paint the front turn signals? From past experience I wanna guess Humbrol clear orange enamel, but whatever it is, it looks great.

I don't get the time sequence either. Two "arrivals" after 1:00 AM and two "departures" after 4:00 AM, but same day and same center (44101).

Another ebay purchase ping-ponging around in the same city. Mar 31, 2022 4:50am DEPARTED USPS REGIONAL FACILITY CLEVELAND OH DISTRIBUTION CENTE, 44101 Mar 31, 2022 4:17am DEPARTED USPS REGIONAL FACILITY CLEVELAND OH DISTRIBUTION CENTE, 44101 Mar 31, 2022 1:20am ARRIVE USPS FACILITY CLEVELAND OH DISTRIBUTION CENTE, 44101 Mar 31, 2022 1:13am ARRIVE USPS FACILITY CLEVELAND OH DISTRIBUTION CENTE, 44101 What does this actually mean?

Agreed, they've made tons of wheels over the years. I tried to do my due diligence before posting by conducting my own search, but never found a match. I guess I was hoping someone here would recognize them. Maybe there's a clue in the date MPC first issued the kit with these wheels (pre-1988?)