Monty

Seems like someone on here got a similar result by spraying Tamiya candy red lacquer over Tamiya gunmetal lacquer.

While this topic is about a color range that really hit its max popularity 40-some years ago, I'm going to circle this back to my original whine in this thread: is there a hobby-grade brandywine out there? I really prefer enamels, but there doesn't seem to be anything like that out there.* No HoK for me either. * Testors "burgundy" is not a legit answer, let alone a starting point. The faintness of its hue will remind you of a red GM cloth interior color that has been exposed to the Texas sun for an unrelenting decade. That, of course, assumes that the nozzle even sprays and that the can hasn't leaked half a pound of clear goo from the bottom seal 10 minutes after you get it home. But I'm not bitter...

Mazda isn't a brand I'm normally drawn to , but they've come up with some of the most eye-catching paint colors in memory. Audi has also had some stunning reds in the last decade or so.

It's been decades since I've built one, but if memory serves, I can tell you this kit will definitely challenge your inner rivet counter. I'll let Vamach give you a more comprehensive list of things that need to be addressed, but I'd start hunting for a better engine as this, IIRC, comes with an FE engine (not available in '71-'73 Mustangs). Seems like some of these also came with a poorly done 302. If you're going the Windsor route, there are better versions out there. To the best of my knowledge there are no 1/25 351Cs (Monogram's is 1/24).

Loved the color back in the day (actually still do). I remember seeing it on everything from an early '80s Cutlass to a late C3 ('80?) Corvette, but my favorite was a Pantera I saw in this shade at a local car show. My issue back then was the lack of a brandywine that was readily available in hobby form, 'cuz I didn't feel ready to step up to the big leagues (HoK etc) as it seemed more like 1:1 car paint. I'm speculating wildly here, but I'd assume any negative reaction to the paint would be from the sheer number of cars painted with it. Think of how Car Craft magazine was often referred to as Red Blown Camaro Digest.

Not trying to be contentious, but even if I am a tightwad, shouldn't I have a reasonable expectation that a "steel" tool should be able to survive the rigors of cutting +/- 1/8" plastic for more than 15 minutes without disintegrating? Pity the poor cheap b*****d who buys one of these to trim his thick, gnarled yellow toenails. I'd bet two snips max.

You guys know what's going to happen next, right? Mark'll eventually get bored playing in this scale, look across the hobby shop and see the z-scale train stuff and crank out a working UP Big Boy. I have no doubt the bell will probably work too.

I bought a new "24-compartment small parts organizer" from Harbor Freight (believe it or not, not the issue) which I'm going to use to store my spare model car wheels. Basically it's just more accessible than the previous sliding-drawer box I'd been using. Since some of the wheels were on longer sprues they weren't able to fit in the compartments, so I grabbed my brand new poor man's sprue cutter. You can't go wrong with Walmart's brand for really poor people...can you? The description at the bottom of the box says it's stainless steel. Worked fine until I tried to cut through a piece of plastic sprue about 20% thicker than normal, at which point one of the blades broke off completely. Did I mention stainless steel? I think I did.

I like where you're taking this. Hope you don't mind a tech nudge: the valve covers should be 3 up/ 4 down Should be an easy fix.

It was worse than you think. The base L48 only had 165 hp, although there was an optional L82 with 205 hp, which at the time was...decent. Ford's Mustang IIs were stuck with anemic 134 hp 302s. Catalytic converters really killed Corvette power in the '75 - '82s. Chevrolet utilized a dual exhaust system that met halfway at the converter and reverted to "duals" past there. As you can imagine, all that did was choke off flow and impede performance. If you lived in a state where emissions regs weren't onerous, switching back to true dual exhaust was your first move.

Wonder if I'd get in trouble if I said "Props to you for such a unique build"? ?

Great combination of resourceful and creative. Ya know, if ya stuck a Cleveland in that thing you'd have a 351 in your P-51. ? Good stuff!

Checking emails, like usual, and trying to weed out all the spam etc. Even with deceptive titles (Fedex package can't be delivered!) I can sniff most of 'em out by hovering over the sender name to see if it's legit. What does it mean if you do that and nothing comes up?

While this is technically true, I don't believe there are any discernable differences between the 1:1 '78s and '79s that would prevent you from using the MPC Pace Car or Anniversary Special '78s to build a '79. Something I've never understood: that MPC '75 convertible does not have a master cylinder/brake booster assembly even though past and future editions of their C3s had them. I always preferred the MPC C3s because of the detailed chassis, separate half shafts and poseable front wheels/tires. OTOH, the dash top lacked any radio speaker or defroster detail.

Looks like 4 color options are available. Scripts and marker lights are a nice touch too. Thanks Rex!

This is not meant to besmirch any genre of music, just something I never "got'', especially since rock did a lot of evolving over time.

The kit I got from ebay didn't have them, which to me wasn't a big deal given their age and likelihood of falling apart. Anyone offer them in multiple colors on one sheet? I still haven't decided what color to paint this new one, so options would be nice. For example, you could make a case for doing this car in red with white stripes. I've also seen black cars with red stripes etc.

I'm really enjoying seeing all the fabrication and innovation going on in this thread. Once completed, this will be an outstanding build. Quick question: what did you use to bend the brass that precisely. I've got a GM car that really needs a better rear sway bar, and it looks like you've mastered the technique. PS As king of the rivet counters, I'm beggin' ya to get rid of the raised lettering on the chassis. My fingers keep clawing at my monitor

In theory it seems like it should be an easy swap, but I'd prefer to know if there are any fit issues etc that will need to be addressed to make everything work together. Also, not knowing a thing about Oldsmobiles, is the AMT engine correct for this swap, and what color should it be? Seems like there's a lot of contention about whether they're blue, gold or copperish gold.

One of the 1:1 car forums I'm on has a political section that includes a long-running meme thread. I love making memes but a great one requires a fantastic picture to start with. (Gene Wilder's sneering Willy Wonka is a personal favorite) I've noticed lately that almost none of the images I sourced and tried to copy to my "pictures" actually appears there. I just get a blank white square. The process still works occasionally, as I've captured numerous images for this board via this method, but being technically deficient, I can't figure out why this is happening.

Here's what's sad: It's a small package containing resin & P/E air cleaner components. Not a whole lot to inspect, or whatever it is they do. Hope they can figure out a way to get it out of there quickly, although now I don't have a lot of hope.

You may be on to something. Apparently nothing has happened since 6/5/22: June 5, 2022, 5:34 pmProcessed Through FacilityISC CHICAGO IL (USPS) Your item has been processed through our facility in ISC CHICAGO IL (USPS) at 5:34 pm on June 5, 2022. Origin Post is Preparing Shipment

Just looking for clarification as to why this is allowed.

Can someone explain ebay's policy of allowing sellers to simply print a shipping label and list the product as "shipped" if it hasn't been handed off for delivery? That would almost be like me posting a message to the seller saying "IOU, please mark this as paid". I won an auction on 5/28, which I paid for that day. As described above, the shipping label was printed within a day of the transaction's end, but hasn't left his house. As I understand it, USPS will pick it up from your home once you've created the label. And yet... It's a JoHan kit I've wanted for some time, and I wonder if he's just being petulant because he only received two bids and didn't make the killing he was expecting. By means of contrast, I ordered some items from Hiroboy in Great Britain on the same day and they're already processing through a facility in Chicago.