Monty

This may be the best build of the AMT kit I've seen. Your build quality, color choices and grille detailing are top notch. May I ask which black you used (ex: Testors #1619)?

Looks like you're off to a great start. Love that color! My sincere thanks to you and all other builders who submit info like that in their posts. This may be the paint I'll end up using on my MPC '67 Toronado.

I believe Arii made those tires and wheels

As good as the MRC wheels were (best Keystones evarrrr, although only available in one width) the tires all had really flat sidewalls, which detracted from the overall look. Their Mickey Thompson sidewalls were laughable because of the way they spaced the words. (maybe someone can post a picture). If you need M/Ts, I believe the AMT '70 Camaro has a decent set (rears only if memory serves).

I posted this strictly as info for people looking for a good spray chrome. While I agree that the price seems fairly high, some might say the quality is worth it. I wish they'd offer it in a jar so I could just airbrush it. From what I've read and watched, I doubt any hobby-level chrome will take much handling without eroding the finish, and so far there doesn't seem to be a clear that doesn't reduce the reflectivity to some extent. This appears to be a great chrome paint for kits that are mainly built to be displayed, and not handled much.

One of my favorite sites. I know a lot of you were curious about this new chrome spray paint, so this should tell you everything you need to know.

Wow, very nice build and photography of one of my favorite cabovers. Yours looks just like one that I used to see occasionally around my hometown years ago. I used to hope some model company would crank one out in 1/25 or 1/24 styrene, but...

Congrats on making this kit-bash a resounding success. I noticed a lot of great detail work, and I though the vinyl top was a great touch as well. I really like the blue you used on the interior. Looks perfect for a car of that era, and I could see using it on a project or two of my own. Would you mind sharing which exact paint was used? (ex: Testors #1611 Blah-blah blue)

I've followed this build from the outset, not only because it's a car I like that's rarely ever seen in model form, but also because I knew that the talent, creativity and persistence that would go into it would culminate in a masterpiece of automotive modeling. Suffice it to say the results speak for themselves. This is spectacular work, and IMHO, may be your best.

Boy howdy, son, how many silk purses are you gonna make out of these sow's ears? Glad you had the talent and resources to rescue it. For some of us, a few of those issues would've meant a permanent return to its box. Today's dumb question: are the aqua stripes on the headlight covers meant to depict duct/racer's tape?

Wow, I didn't even notice the modified hood initially 'cuz that color just grabs your eye. Is it the same paint you used on your Aluma-coupe? Any chance I could get you to list the actual paint info (ex: Testors #1216 Blah-blah Blue). I guessed Testors because you mentioned a leaking seal on the can. Lots to like on this build. Nice job!

There's a YouTube model builder (hpiguys workshop) who uses that stuff for all his model "glass". At the 24:17 mark of this video, he briefly shows the bottle. HTH

Posted a question this morning asking for advice on a project I'm working on. No issues. Several hours later I try to check and see if there are any responses and I see this: Your connection is not private Attackers might be trying to steal your information from www.modelcarsmag.com (for example, passwords, messages, or credit cards). Learn more NET::ERR_CERT_COMMON_NAME_INVALID What's causing this?

Ha! Greg's response regarding styrene tubing with soft wire inside has me wondering if that wouldn't be the better way to go. Thoughts?

If you check out the video I posted above, the presenter used Mr Color Leveling Thinner to prep the Revell paints for airbrushing. I've seen enough of his videos to know that he really likes the stuff and has mentioned that it is a great substitute if you aren't able to find the reducer he sells with his personal line of paints.

I've got a project going that had a molded-in exhaust. I've used my Dremel to remove it with some careful grinding, but now need to replace what was removed. I'll be using stock mufflers from another kit 1) Remind me what kind(s) of solder to use and what not to use (acid core?). Attach with CA glue? 2) Recommend a gauge that would look accurate for a mid-'60s full size car. 3) Any treatments (paint, stain) on the solder to make it look more accurate? 4) Will this hold up over the long term or should I try and find a styrene solution? Thanks for any helpful input on this.

Good catch! Thanks!

Great restoration! Congrats on a) finding an old AMT body and b) doing all the required bodywork to make it look new again.

Agree on the dash. Remarkable detail. As far as the kit goes, I've heard that the engine is a Cadillac with Oldsmobile valve covers. If so, maybe one of our resident experts can elaborate on that and provide recommendations on making it more accurate. (Distributor location, etc) Here's hoping someone on here can dig up a replacement tire for you. In the meantime, I'll be watching as this build progresses.

I assume the spoons are an economical alternative to trying to scrounge up new kit bodies for the dozens of tests he does every year. To that end, I also assume the spoons lend a level of uniformity to these tests. In addition, the roundness of the spoons may give a better idea of paint coverage than a flat piece of plastic. He's pretty straightforward in his reviews; I recall one test where he basically said he couldn't justify spending the money for Tamiya's $20.00 can of gold spray paint, given the slight difference in hue between it and their regular gold, so if he says the Revell paints are good, I'd take that to the bank. OTOH, while I don't mind the Revell and Humbrol tinlets, he obviously hates them, as is evidenced by the mangled lids. His solution, which admittedly would take a bit of effort, kinda makes sense for those of us who grew up with Pactra and Testors jars.

Here's a review of the Revell enamels as well as a solution for those who dislike the Revell and Humbrol tinlets. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mSXDT8epVhE&t=1456s

I usually don't do more than one color on my car bodies, but I've got an idea that will require masking and I want to do it correctly. Long story short, I've got some skinny flame masks (Jimmy Flintstone horizontal flames a little over 1/2" high). The car will be shot in a lighter color, allowed to dry, then masked and a darker color (enamel) will be airbrushed onto the flame mask. How long do you keep the mask on before pulling it up? (Any other tips are also welcome)

Nice! Glad you were able to get over the hurdles and end up with a great build. I've go the non-pro street version partially done (engine/interior). Can you (or anyone else in this thread) elaborate on the "fit issues" so I'll know what to expect?

Really enjoyed watching this come together. To be honest, the subject matter didn't appeal to me initially, unlike the majority of his builds, but that picture of the completed engine made me keep watching to see what else he was going to do. Mark, the BRE cars had some distinctive graphics. Are you considering anything like that for this build?

Do you think a drop or two of the hardener MCW offers for their enamels would help?