Monty

Thanks, guys! Very informative and sobering thread. The info you guys posted about the hardeners generally goes unmentioned in these instructional videos, so I have no doubt you've helped to educate quite a few people regarding possible hazards when using them.

This. I initially switched from Google because of the snooping etc, but have been very disappointed in the quantity and quality of search results I get from DDG, even on innocuous subjects like cars and hobby stuff. Based on the few times I tried it, I'd say Microsoft's Bing is every bit as mediocre as DDG. ?

Hmmm, gotta blame this on my blood type, which is...Type-O ?

I've noticed that some YouTube modelers use MCW enamel paint along with MCW hardener on their builds. Seems to speed up the frying process and leaves a very shiny surface without clearing, although that might be due to the quality of the paint. Has anyone tried using MCW's hardener in other enamels (Model Master, Humbrol, Revell)? I get working within a given system, but I'm curious.

After 7+ years, my old computer is dying and I'm considering replacing it with another Dell, an Inspiron 3891 to be exact. To be a little economical, I'd like to use my 10-year-old Viewsonic monitor, but some people have suggested it may not work with newer computers (different cable?) I tried using Dell's tech chatbox, but they kept asking for info I didn't know and more or less avoided answering the question. Anybody out there know the answer? Please show your work; I'm trying to keep this as simple as possible.

Can you elaborate on that last sentence? I assumed the '66 - '70 JoHan Toronados would basically be carryovers with the possibility of interior updates.

Most of them will be JoHan kits ('66-'72 IIRC), but MPC issued their own '67 Toronado kit way back when. There have been some very nice ones shown on here over the years.

I like this. Whose paints did you use? What masking material?

Not to drag this thread sideways but could you elaborate on this? I've seen online reviews and pics posted here of kits painted with their enamels, and they seem to be a quality product. I'm asking because I'm thinking of using their Fiery Red on a future project, and I really don't want to have any paint issues (rare kit).

Thanks for mentioning the info about the engine change. I hope the engine from the '69 can be built up nicely. Today's dumb question: what model paint best replicates the red on those Buick engines?

I happen to have an extra AMT '66 Buick Riviera and had a couple questions about using it to make another kit better. 1) Will the chassis fit under the 69 Riviera without a lot of of modifications? 2) Is it a reasonably accurate swap (not looking for concourse-level rivet counting. The 1:1 cars both have the X frame, right? 3) Anybody done this swap? Anything else I should look out for?

While it may seem to be a variation on a theme, I like this idea better than, say, decanting using a WD-40 straw. Start around the 18:50 mark.

I've got an idea or two for some two-tone paintjobs but would like to use a pinstripe to separate and set off the two colors a la this: Obviously the straight lines would be easy but following the wheel wells on many cars would not. Basically I'm looking for pinstripe decals in a variety of colors, that could be "worked" to follow a given pattern or profile, assuming such a thing exists. Not really interested in "tape" options as they don't seem to offer much flexibility.

I'm going to start drilling out molded-in chrome headlights on some older kits and trying to make them look more realistic with clear headlight lenses over an appropriate base. Does anyone offer a selection of these? I need them to have the regular striations you'd see on a 1:1 headlight, which probably precludes using products from a certain model railroad supplier.

I lived in the DFW area until 2016 and used to enjoy my visits to their store on Shady Grove Rd in Irving. I wasn't aware that they had merged with Hobbytown and changed locations. They used to be (in)famous for having stacks of kits behind other kits on the shelves, to the point where I would bring a modeling buddy so we could help each other search for the hidden gems. Found some nice stuff over the years. My favorite place was Phil's Hobbies in Carrollton. Decent selection of kits, lots of ancillary items and so many different kinds of paint... Sadly they closed years ago. I hope someone on here can give you some up-to-date info that'll make your time there worthwhile.

Always good to see a well done open-wheel build, and yours definitely fits the description. Looks like MPC did a decent job of replicating the suspension etc. Having never built an open-wheel kit myself, would I be correct in assuming this was a little fiddly to build? Nice job of putting everything together, including the bundle of snakes exhaust.

Weird, here's a build of a car I have no interest in owning (scale model or 1:1) yet when I look at how well built it is, not to mention the paint colors and how nicely they turned out, I can't help but stare at it in admiration. That black just flooooooowwwws. Take a bow.

Nice job! We don't see those '71-'73 Cougars on here very often so I'm glad you posted. Interesting idea spraying the metallic green over a silver base. Paint looks sharp. This kit used to have a reputation for sagging at the rear end, but it looks like you resolved that. I've got one waiting to be built. Any problem areas I should watch out for? As '70 Stang asked, what's your method for creating the vinyl top?

Agreed, but someone beat you to the punch hours ago. Sad that it didn't occur to me when I originally posted it, but I am home sick, so...

I believe it came with a battery, so I probably didn't pay much attention to it. My situation was probably an anomaly; if this kind of malfunction had been endemic, it would've been virtually impossible to keep the news out of most modeling forums.

Unfortunately I live in a hick town so almost all hobby purchases are done online. In addition, I've heard some disturbing things about the Tamiya stuff, so I may see what else is out there.

No, I would've been using either Duracell or Energizer regular batteries. I don't think I own anything that takes lithium batteries.

Note to self: Derrrrrrrrrrrr. Great points, sir. Adding lacquer thinner to a wash would be beyond dumb, since most of my painting involves enamels, And yes I should quit being cheap and just get another bottle.

It's more or less sludgy - some liquid with chunks in it. If I understand correctly, this stuff is enamel, and I didn't know if this was a sign that it had turned bad or if mixing and thinning would reconstitute it. Regarding the Tamiya X-20 thinner, here's what someone posted the other day: If I remember right I read someplace the alcohol in X-20a is some form of glycol alcohol. Denatured alcohol would indeed be closer than iso. And actually denatured alcohol works well in Tamiya acrylics. So does lacquer thinner. At the Tamiya site they list LT as the thinner to use if you want a harder finish ( look in the fine extended print there). I'm thinking glycol alcohol won't work with enamel.

True story - several years ago, I decided to buy a hobby paint mixer and figured something from Micro Mark would be a worthwhile purchase. It worked OK for a couple weeks before it literally caught fire at my model table. Been using the Badger unit ever since.