Monty

I'm currently doing some initial research on colors for an upcoming model project and I'm leaning toward variants of gold (think how much different Model Master Inca Gold is from most regular gold paints). Anyway, I came across some pics of GM cars painted in Warbonnet Yellow, which I like, and I also saw similarly aged GM cars painted in Placer Gold. Admittedly, all I have is small internet pictures for reference, but to me they looked strikingly similar. Just curious if someone with knowledge of car paint could tell me the difference and maybe post pics that best define each shade.

There's a seller on Ebay offering them for $6.00 a bottle, but also asking $8.00 each for shipping. I'm hoping to find the lowest price on both, but having never purchased them before, I'm kinda at a loss as to where to start. TIA for any helpful info.

This'll be fun to watch. Despite their age, these kits can really pop, especially if done as two-tones. Can you elaborate on what new parts were tooled/added in the most recent release?

My Pavlovian connection to flared C3 Corvettes summoned me, which in my case is a nice thing to have. The build itself is obviously killer, as always, but what really made me sit up and take notice was the section in the WIP where you stated how many hours you spent getting these tiny decals perfectly placed. I'm not sure I'd have the patience to pull that off. Either way, thanks for sharing another great build with us!

While researching something else, I noticed that Tamiya and Mr Hobby offer "smoke" paint, which seems to indicate translucence. I wondered if these could be used over colors like red, yellow or silver (and possibly others) to make subtle stripes etc. Anybody done this? Pics?

Thanks!

I look forward to learning what you think of them as your opinion is highly respected on this board. As I mentioned initially, the video only gives a few good glimpses of them being used, so any larger pictures and assessments you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Seems to be a fairly good product and the price and tip selection make them hard to pass up.

I swear I heard or read that they offer an enamel paint that's meant to help you create slightly rusty exhaust manifolds. I took some time and searched their site but didn't find anything, so I sent them an email. Got a surprisingly unhelpful reply. Did I imagine this or am I confusing them with another hobby paint manufacturer who actually offers what i want (moderate rust on iron)?

Wish I could get my younger brother on your team. He does amazing work in mig and tig welding, and the company he works for has clients whose names you'd instantly recognize. Me? I was a C- student in gas welding, so I didn't consider this to be any part of my career path.

I came across this video a few days ago and thought some of you would find it interesting. The markers are from a company called Zoet, and the reviewer in the video seems to think they're oil-based, as opposed to being an ink like the Molotows. I will say this is not the greatest "proof" video, but ff to 3:18 and go from there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfaS2ewI_FU&t=5s Knowing this group, the first question will be how will it react to a clear coat, and I don't have that answer. They come in a 3-pack (+/- $10.00) with .7, 1 and 3mm tips. (See video link).

Beautiful work! Love that color. Would you mind sharing which exact paints you used for the body and engine (ex: Model Master #1619).

Agree 100%. Normally I'm not a big fan of green cars but I'd love to have a 1:1 like that in my driveway and that kit on my shelf. Great work!

Once again, all your research-based efforts were rewarded with yet another amazing showpiece. Well done.

I may have access to the ambulance. Just wondering what all I'd have to do to convert it to a hearse.

For some reason I was under the impression this was supposed to be out by now. My apologies if I missed something blatantly obvious regarding this.

Compare the inside curvature of the C-pillar to a side pic of a 1:1 Duster. Close, but off enough that I wouldn't build it without fixing it. I think it could be improved with a little effort, but the responses I've gotten so far indicate that no one has bothered to try. Similar situation: Ertl International Scout II. I used to walk by one every day I went to high school, and my HS German teacher also had one, so I was somewhat familiar with how they should look. Ertl's version has a grille that curves across the top, where it should be straight. Easily fixed (SAE built one and showed how to do it) but 99% of builders don't for some reason.

To be honest, having seen about a decade's worth of your work, I would bet the farm that a modeler who would take the time and effort to create highly accurate representations of three-color '50s/'60s interiors would never let something as obvious as this slide. I may not be able to build at your level, but I will always strive to make a more accurate product. If the first thing your eye is drawn to is an error, something should have been fixed.

I guess I don't see the benefit of this. Why spend $30.00 to get the Demon, then perform styrene surgery to transfer the roof to the Duster? I plan to buy the Demon eventually, but with the intention of building it. Regarding the issue I want to resolve, my first impression is that it's just the inside edge of the C-pillar that looks incorrect. Maybe I could use the Demon to create a template of sorts. As you can probably tell, I'm not all that experienced in model bodywork.

Yes, I'm fully aware that this kit was designed and issued years (decades?) ago. Yet, for some reason most of the ones I've seen built still have the inaccurate C-pillar. I guess I'm hoping to get advice on fixing mine, since I can't fathom building it as is. Is it just a matter of sanding/filing etc, or is there more to it? Seems like if it was easy, more people would have done it. ?‍♂️ Pics of any work you've done would be appreciated.

I live in the middle of the Midwest, which is currently experiencing some nasty weather. It occurred to me that a remote start setup might be nice and allow the car (2005 Buick LeSabre) to warm up more than I have been. Any recommendations? Any downsides?

Working off the assumption that AMT had become defunct as a maker of kits, I just wondered what the last kit "they" designed was. Simply that. As someone who built AMT kits (among others) since the early '70s, I happen to think the "Mueller kits" (late '80s - early 2000s?)* were the best AMT kits made. * Another aspect of the story I'm pretty vague on, but to my mind, the kits were accurate and well-designed. Some of the stuff from the '70s...well let's say they helped me become a better modeler.

My admittedly limited understanding of how we got to where we are now includes Lesney's buyout of AMT and later Lesney's eventual bankruptcy. I assumed at that point AMT was then back to being their own company. I was also under the impression that what many refer to as "the Mueller kits" (early 2000s?) were the last real AMT-designed and tooled cars, but I vaguely remembered that there had also been 2017 Camaro and a few later subjects that other members mentioned above. Were those actually AMT-designed and tooled kits? Please note: I'm not trying to be argumentative. Note how many assumptions I've made based on a lack of facts that several of you seem to be privy to.

My assumption was that AMT technically no longer existed as an actual model company, and that pretty much anything being currently issued with their logo on the box is due to Round2 owning the rights to the name etc. I started the thread because I was wondering which (automotive) kit was the last actually designed by AMT's people. I knew there was a 2017 Camaro, but a couple members have mentioned a few more recent offerings.