Monty

Long story short, I know how to add a picture from an outside source (ex: Google images) to a post, but when it comes to posting pics I took with my phone's camera, I've got a pic I took yesterday in my phone's gallery, but have no idea how to put it on here. I sent it to myself as an email so I could copy/paste it off my PC, but it said something to the effect that the file was too big, but didn't give me the option of scaling it down. I was also told to connect the phone to a USB port, but that didn't seem to go anywhere either. Is there an easy way to do this?

I hardly have any experience with hobby lacquers. Can you explain why a paint that dries so quickly needs that much drying time? Does it have anything to do with the reducer (Mr Color Leveling Thinner)?

Concept: I'll be using stuff I've already got on hand. The car body will be airbrushed Testors White Lightning (lacquer pearl white, decanted) and flames or stripes (undecided) will be airbrushed with Tamiya candy blue enamel. Both paints will be proportionally reduced with Mr Color Leveling Thinner. To the best of my knowledge, this should work fine, but I'm curious if anything other than white primer will kill the pearl white look. Other than that, do you guys see any potential problems with this plan?

Looking for micro bolts, nuts and washers. I've got a kit that's been on hold forever and I recall noticing that I could easily make the front wheels/tires poseable with a little work.

Have you actually done this successfully? Pics? I ask because the wheels I generally use (MPC /AMT) are kept in the tire by the slightly larger outer flange of the wheel plus whatever wheel back you glue to it. These wheels in question are locked into their same-make (Revell/Moebius) tires by their internal flanges. If ground off, what keeps the wheel in the tire?

Every once in a while I do ebay searches for 1/25 wheels just to see what's out there. I've come across some wheels I really like but they have a proprietary flange that virtually requires you to use that kit's tires. Is there an easy workaround that will let me use these with AMT/MPC tires?

I love the intensity of that color. It reminds me of old Hot Wheels SpectraFlame paint. Would you mind posting the P/N for that paint?

My sincere thanks for this post. Looks like a great price and reasonable shipping. I've passed it on to some other builders I know who'd been looking forward to buying this kit. I'm sure any other similar posts with low prices etc would also be welcome here.

C3 = '68 - '82 The earlier C3s (ex: steel bumper cars) could use the regular L-88 hood, while the later ones (ex: '78 - '82) had longer hoods because they now covered the area where the wiper panel had been. So, again, need a longer L-88 hood

The MPC C4 Corvette kits had engines and transmissions that were molded completely separate from the frame. I had some in the distant past, which is why I'm looking for that engine again. Go to 2:15

I've been using Ebay for years (decades?) and have found any number of rare and interesting items, most of which have been hobby-related. Lately, however, I've been stymied by two searches. 1) Unassembled small block Chevy TPI engine (Think MPC 1986 - ? C4 Corvette kits). I've purchased other unbuilt engines I needed for various projects, so I assumed this would be an easy search, but so far, no. 2) Can someone explain if the method for screening out unwanted items has changed? I used to put a minus sign next to the unwanted item, which would cull out most of the undesired items. Ex: Matador -Allison would remove most of the NASCAR entries leaving me mostly stock Matadors. In this case I'm looking for the Revell '70 Charger. I want to keep the Fast & Furious entries out but my minus sign trick doesn't seem to work. *** I don't want to buy a whole kit for an engine, and although I've done some great trades with a number of you, I don't have much to trade and would prefer to just buy what I need.

Between all the little details and nailing that stance there's certainly a lot to like here, but I'm really intrigued by that color and the way you achieved it.

Love these cars (1:1 and hobby/collectible stuff) but was wondering about your title. To the best of my knowledge, these are 917-10s, while the 917-30 looks like this

Thanks! Great color!

Not AMT's best engineering, so congrats on getting it past the finish line. May I ask what actual paint you used? (ex: Model Master #1649)

Love the subject matter and the result. Question: do you have to use special (smaller) panel scribers in that scale?

OK, this'll probably be my last post on this. As I mentioned earlier, I really don't know much about computers, hence hiring the tech. Because I need to have an operating computer, the "new" one is currently at a repair shop. I'm using the old one as sparingly as possible till the other one is ready. I had hoped the seller could be persuaded to swap units with me, but that's not gonna happen. I will be curious to find out what the issue was. Too bad I can't impact the seller's reputation.

Very nice work on this one. Love that color combo.

The computer is a desktop. The tech is one of my older brother's friends. He mostly does corporate stuff, but accommodates certain people if time allows. He's currently out of town for the next week and a half. The unit "worked" to the extent that it allowed us to input the info that allowed my Microsoft account to continue on the new unit. Power cord isn't/wasn't an issue. It was when we'd completed all the background stuff and went to actually use the computer that we got the black screen.

Warning: Long The Dell desktop computer I've been using for the last 7 years has begun to show signs that it needs to be replaced fairly soon. Based on its performance and longevity, I searched for a more current version and found one on ebay. The seller listed it as "open box, unused" but also specified "no returns". He has over 800 sales and a 100% satisfaction rating, so I figured this would be a good risk for a good price. Long story short, I brought in one of the best techs in the area to help me get it set up (I'm a computer moron and I also wanted to make sure important documents etc on the old unit were "captured" and put on the new one). We did all the preliminary stuff successfully, but when we hit the Start button, we got nothing but a black screen. Messaged the seller, who referred me to Dell tech support, which would be akin to trying to walk your grandma through setting valve lash over the phone. I need to resolve this quickly because the computer plays a major role in various other aspects of life, but don't know what to do at this point.

Since I seem to be obsessed with MCW's hardener for enamels, I wondered if you could add some of that to decanted Revell chrome paint (also enamel, I believe) and end up with a more durable finish. It doesn't seem to have any negative effects on MCW's enamel finishes, so maybe it wouldn't kill the reflectivity of the chrome paint. Thoughts?

Thanks, guys! Very informative and sobering thread. The info you guys posted about the hardeners generally goes unmentioned in these instructional videos, so I have no doubt you've helped to educate quite a few people regarding possible hazards when using them.

This. I initially switched from Google because of the snooping etc, but have been very disappointed in the quantity and quality of search results I get from DDG, even on innocuous subjects like cars and hobby stuff. Based on the few times I tried it, I'd say Microsoft's Bing is every bit as mediocre as DDG. ?

Hmmm, gotta blame this on my blood type, which is...Type-O ?

I've noticed that some YouTube modelers use MCW enamel paint along with MCW hardener on their builds. Seems to speed up the frying process and leaves a very shiny surface without clearing, although that might be due to the quality of the paint. Has anyone tried using MCW's hardener in other enamels (Model Master, Humbrol, Revell)? I get working within a given system, but I'm curious.