Fat Brian

Why are you trying to cobble together a workable setup? You can get a workable oiless pancake compressor from Harbor Freight for around $50. Just put on a regulator, filter, and water separator and you will be good to go, you will still need all of that stuff with the other setup anyway.

The Topkicks never used the 99+ GM body that the Revell kit is based off of. You will have some issues getting the interior to fit the cab but I don't know how close the DG parts are to the AMT kit so it could be a fight either way. You could use the newer interior and just try to trade for a bed here to match the body, since it's a custom you have a lot of options.

Looks good, the chrome on mine was messed up too.

I would be in for those.

In no particular order: 73-79 Ford truck with correct long bed First gen Bronco 55-56 Cadillac Coupe Deville 73 Chevelle 80-86 Ford full size truck and Ranger 62 Olds 88 Pete 379 long hood Kenworh W900B Aerodyne 71-73 Mustang 70-71 Mercury Cyclone 72 Ranchero Kaiser M-715 46 Dodge Power Wagon Lincoln Mark III Cadillac CTS-V 2 door

Did anyone make it to the show today? I did but I was super early and had to leave before any of the builds got there.

That is a great build of a challenging kit. Where did you get those tires?

I think they should have spent the extra $1200 for the anti-lock brakes.

Yes, thank you very much. I picked up another 53 today so I would be sure to have a good one for this.

Interesting, I had always thought a coach builder did the conversions. The only ones I've ever seen around here looked like civilian vehicles.

The Mack motor shown on the previous page is an END-673, its a non turbo version of the ENDT-675 found in the R685 and DM600 kits.

I thought you were going to make her do a clean and jerk. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WQAEu8FOCHY

Based on Rich's post he might be able to refill the bottle for free. But Greg is right about the cost and the testing requirements of the tanks, unless there are special circumstances like trying to be quiet a compressor will be cheaper in the long run, unless of course you can refill for free.

Those are So Real Customs wheels, they are all over ebay for pretty cheap.

Yep , they aren't terribly common but they are around. They look so good I'm surprised Ford didn't actually bring them into full production.

You should be able to reuse it a few times but I have noticed that it loses it's effectiveness after a while so don't plan on buying once and it lasting forever.

It sounds like you have what you need to get started. I would still use a secondary air brush style regulator with at least a filter but your cylinder should work fine as long as it holds a couple hundred pounds of pressure. It needs to be high enough over your cut pressure to keep a steady regulated pressure as the main tank pressure drops. I apologize if that is confusing, I work with high pressure gas and it makes sense to me but I know what I'm trying to say. Let me say this, once set to a specific downstream pressure most regulators require the upstream pressure to remain constant. If the upstream(tank) pressure drops too far the downstream(air brush) pressure will begin to drop also.

What kind of container will the co2 be in? If it's some little cartidge or can it probably won't be worth it but if you are getting it in a large container with a regulator you might be on to something. I have heard of people who live in apartments and don't want the sound of an air compressor running but still need to air brush using small nitrogen bottles from a welding supply store. The tanks are fairly cheap to refill and last for a good while.

Age isn't anything but a number and it affects each one of us differently. I was a cashier at a grocery store in my teens and it amazed me how some of the customers were whip smart and coherent well into their eighties but others were starting to lose it in their fifties. It's just a genetic roll of the dice really.

Brake fluid isn't necessary for enamels, I would recommend either Purple Power/Castrol Super Clean or even LA's Totally Awesome cleaner. These are more easily disposed of and easier to use, I save brake fluid for patricularly tough stuff like automotive paints or hot laquers. You can reuse it multiple times with just occasional straining through a piece of cloth or even a paper towel.

I see what you mean, the front of the fender is the same but the back is longer to meet the lower running boards. Here is a stock F100, there is about two or three inches between the bottom of the door and the running board. But on the F500/F600 the running boards are almost six or seven inches from the bottom of the door.

There is a guy selling late fifties Big Jobs on ebay, want.

I believe the short hood Petes are 119" from the bumper to the back of the cab and I know the grills are 50" wide. In 1/16 scale the kit grill should measure 3 1/8" wide, hopefully that will give you some insight as to what scale it is.

Now THAT is outside the box!

You will still need to cut it out the way Rob described, the tape keeps the very brittle clear plastic from splintering and will save you some headaches, but if possible you should use clear sheet stock or even a clear two liter soda bottle to make the lowered window.