gtx6970

Whats the difference between one with a .05mm and one with .03mm . it the tip size ? ,,or maybe cup size ? https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Procon-Trigger-Airbrush/dp/B001AC51T2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489096960&sr=8-1&keywords=mr+airbrush+trigger https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Procon-Trigger-Airbrush/dp/B0007U92MU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1489096960&sr=8-2&keywords=mr+airbrush+trigger

Wheels look killer and actually look 'almost' as nice as kit wheels off a chrome tree . I pushed them in the tires a few days after 'chroming' and haven't touched them since, so they look pretty good. The trim around the windows themselves not so much,,,,, with just normal handling assembling a kit the window trim turned to almost a Testors silver. Once the car was done, I carefully went back over the trim with a 1mm pen. Now I just have to be a little more careful how I pick it up. As the body side moldings are still bare metal foil so I just grab the car from the sides of the body if I have to pick it up

Cool deal . Does this kit have the correct Pontiac power train in it ( I've never opened mine yet to ck )

Just for my own info, I assume this is the Arnie Beswick 69 GTO . That car was carousel red correct ? ( if your in fact your building that particular car ,,if not carry on ) Ive got this kit to build here someday soon and don't want to have to go looking for some fancy paint if not needed

2nd part of my dual build. The Bob Ford - Len Richter driven - 4 speed car. Finished it up last night . Duplicolor Ford gold exterior with a mix of Tamiya champagne gold and Duplicolor Arizona beige on the interior with the white door panel inserts picked out by hand . Other than the decals its straight out of the box. Wheels are done with the chrome pen and I like them,,they have the chrome reverse look to them I was after. All the window trim was done with a chrome pen,,,,,and I will NOT be doing that again. If you handle the car at all ,,even after letting it dry a few days,,it'll still fingerprint and dull the finish. The Fred Cady decals on this one fought me tooth and nail. They cracked when trying to lift them off the carrier sheet , and after drying over night they wanted to just fall off the car. So I quickly put a top coat of future over them to 'hopefully' seal them down. I'll usually use wet look clear but I was afraid the force of the panting would blow them off the car. I decided to drag all the T bolts I have finished for a family photo just for fun Again thanks for looking and comment or criticisms more then welcome.

Excellent information people. I learned something about these cars in this endeavor . But ,,,Right or wrong the engine in my Tasca Ford build is blue.. Sorry, but I'm not taking it apart to change it ( it'll never be contest judged anyway) I just ckd ,,,,,The engine in my Gas Ronda car are also blue . But,,,,in my defense it was done before I really started to use the internet to gather information. And after cking it, i found the engine in my Hubert Platt car is black. Luckily I had recently seen the 1/1 in person when I built that one Ive got 3 more in process and will paint the engines in all of the them black. The Bob Ford car ( I finished it tonight actually ) . I also have a Mike Grey driven Reynolds Ford and the Al Means Ford car of Phil Bonner. Oddly enough once done, all 6 I'll have in the case are 4 spd cars Ive got decals to do 2 different Butch Leal cars, and the Conner Ford car. I guess I need to round up some more kits for cheap

Nope, nadda none. Its black . On the foil it had to go over it a time or 2 mainly to cover the foil ,, but thats it. Ive used one to highlight molded in under hood wiring to molded in shifter linkages on transmissions

Not sure about rings there, but they have small gauge beading wire that's silver ( gold as well ) and is relatively soft so would be pretty easy to mash it flat

The window ' trim ' on this one is also a black sharpie

Run a black sharpie down the side of it using just side of the tip / felt that's how I did this one.

BUT, It would be a no brainer if all you had to buy was an airbrush. Problem is it also requires a compressor, cleaners and everything else that goes with it. . Plus storage of it all. With these prevail sprayers once done you can drop them in the trash if you want and buy another one if or when you need them again. , actually several times before your on the door step of a complete air brush costs The prevail sprayers have there niche,,, Whether that's in the modeling world or not I cant answer. But if I was limited on funds and / or space I would give one a try . Its not like every build I do where I need to drag out the air brush to paint it. I actually avoid it if I can find something close to the color I'm after in a rattle can. Last year I built maybe 12 - 13 kits, and I only had to drag the airbrush out twice. If I could have found the colors I wanted in a rattle can , It would still be there collecting dust . I am well aware an airbrush can allow for a much better overall finish. But Ive seen some quality builds done with nothing but a rattle can as well .

Never noticed this before. But with some creative masking one could get pretty close to this actual car with just that sheet

Thats better

Thanks, But nothing aftermarket of any kind was added. 100% of whats shown is in the box it comes in. Ive got away from the all detailed builds with aftermarket or over the counter parts . I don't do contests so all I have to do is please me . And this one is one of my favorites. Its been on my to do list ever since the kit came out. I just couldnt find the paint colors to do it and look right.

Correct, I took it back out and fixed it this morning. Once dry I'll see if its any better with the hood on

Yea, I noticed that as well. Unfortunately the grille doesn't fit the ends of the fenders just exactly perfect to correct it. To be honest the grill is actually just a smidge too wide for the body. ( hard to see in pics , but I sanded it down a bit to correct it as best I could then touched it up with a chrome pen ) But I still think its one of Revell best kits ever. The kit goes together with virtually zero issues . EDIT, I just took another look at the build in person. It seems my grille came loose and I didn't catch it, till now. Its been re-glued back in position and looks MUCH better now. I saw the restored 1/1 car back in the mid 90s and knew someday I had to build a replica of it for myself . It was was sitting there idling in the pits warming up ,waiting to make a pass ( sounded wicked btw ) . I'm not a ford guy but man that car made an impression on me. A picture of a picture the day we were there ( this was pre digital photos for me )

Ive wanted to build this kit since the day I saw the 1/1 back in the late 90s at a super stock reunion at the Virginia Motor Sports complex . Well, I finished this one last night . Strictly an all box stock build. Front bumper and the air cleaner box were stripped of the chrome and resprayed with duplicolor chrome over grey primer to give it a polished aluminum look. They're not the best pictures ,,, as my camera just doesn't really capture the color all that well in artificial lighting . But its painted mostly with Tamiya colors . All sealed in with Testors wet look clear Enjoy,,,, and comments of all kinds are most welcome and encouraged. But I really, REALLY like how it turned out . This is the 3rd Bolt Ive built ,,, And its one of 4 T-Bolts I have in the works right now. Thanks for looking

Well, finished the Tasca Ford car last night after dinner. headed to under glass and in my case to join the others

Well, finished the Tasca Ford car last night after dinner. headed to under glass and in my case to join the others

Only the body side moldings are done with BMF on the Bob Ford car. All the window trim ( front, rear and side ) is done with a chrome pen

2 interiors are now done (due to all the similarities I now have 4 different Thunderbolts in process) . Tub and Seats are Tamiya Champagne Gold, with testors flat clear over the lower doors and back seat of the tub and satin clear on the seats themselves. Tops of the doors and dash frame are sprayed with duplicolor Arizona beige to get me close to the 2 tone door frame I was after. Its not dead on,,,but close enough for me . It definitely has a little bit more of a gold tint to it in person than my camera/monitor depicts here . I picked out some trim on the dash and the horn ring on the steering wheel with a 1mm chrome pen. Body is essentially done on the Tasca Ford car. Front and rear window trim , as well as the body side moldings are BMF. But the door + 1/4 window frames are done with a 1mm chrome pen

Use an enamel paint, they dry slower than lacquers and allow a little more time to get the embossing powder to stick to it. Ive been told to use Elmers glue as well, but the one I did that with the carpet was peeling up along edge within a couple months

Hope you don't mind the tip. But the wing on a Daytona is aluminum, there for will not rust.

I'll bet Round 2 is keeping a close eye on how well there all new tool Camaro sells before deciding to do any more kits from scratch of any subject matter

I figure postage costs into my final bid or buy it now price. If it fits in my price range I'll make a bid/buy it now. If not I look elsewhere or wait for another one to pop up ,,,, and they usually do within a few days Ive sold a few kits on Facebook pages over the past few weeks and on a few , Ive been burned on postage costs. I figure postage costs at home using usps.com ,,only to find once I get to the post office I cant mail my box at parcel post, it has to go priority mail for some odd reason or another which is almost 50% higher.