gtx6970

Good timing. I have a pile I need to get rechromed now

Last few things Ive bought didnt have tax added to it ( most recent was just last week )

Im in . plus any other early Ford SS cars . Or even some different Mopar or GM cars from the same period . I mean while your it.

Well I tried the purple power ( white jug I think ) and Im not impressed . It took 2 days to take chrome off a bumper. And even then didnt take all of it off. And never did loosen loosen the paint on an old annual that was brush painted years ago ( no idea the brand or type of paint ) After about a week in it with no better results . I took it out , washed it off with plain water and sprayed it down with easy off , stuck it in a ziplock freezer bag like always . And the next morning scrubbed it with an old tooth brush and 90% of the paint was gone. I can spray a chrome bumper with easy off and the chrome is gone in 5 minutes at the max . The downfall obviously is the smell and make sure to wear gloves.

I wonder who determined this ?

Ya got to. Thats easily the best trick Ive learned since spray paint. The more pronounce the emblem is in bare plastic the better it looks once completed . If its real faint make sure you go light on the paint. I'll put a piece of tape over the emblem leaving it bare plastic till my last coat of primer . Then do the BMF, and one final light primer coat before paint. Clean the emblems off exposing the chrome then clear it . Its takes a little practice but its super easy to pick up . Make sure you trim it as close to the emblem as possible or else it leaves and edge around the emblem you can see . Look close you can tell I didnt trim this one close enough. This one was my first time doing it that way.

Thanks , Its an old annual. I bought it a couple years ago as someday build. it was missing tires wheel's and top boot and had the funky custom tail light lenses ( it was pretty cheap ) . Body had some of the custom stuff glued to the hood so it required some body work . But the side applique panels behind the rear wheels were perfect on this one. I actually have a 2nd kit and it didn't come with a boot either. SO I really had nothing to compare to . I have one form a 63 Ford and it was to short exposing the opening. And both the kits I have the opening is molded pretty large compared to the 62 or 63 Galaxie convertibles I have The boot cant be much shorter or it exposes the opening in the filler panel . If its right or wrong It fits and looks ok. So it stays I could actually use the stock red tail light lenses if anyone has a spare set. Otherwise I'll make something .

One Ive been working on off and on for about the past 4 - 6 months when I get inspired. I saw the 1/1 at a local cruise in last summer and knew I found the color combo I wanted for my builder. Not sure if its OE correct or not. But I like it and thats all I needed. Its not a true replica but it fills the niche. Color is Krylon shortcuts Bonnet Blue with testors clear. Interior is ( I think ) Tamiya french blue ( been painted a while and the can is now long gone ) trimmed in white , with a dark blue embossing powder for carpet. Added a shifter and turn signal lever to the steering column. Sunvisors and top boot are probably not correct in such a dark blue ( boot was missing on the car when I got it and this was in my parts box so I made it work ) I was tryng to make an uptop from an AMT 1961 Ford fit,,,and failed horribly.

Mark, I can use this 63 for something else at some point. But I want a 62 to convert to a sedan . I have a couple possibilities to get one in the works ,,,,,one an original kit and also a hurt promo I know there's a resin avail, I just prefer stryene if at all possible

Did TM Resin end up with the masters Wendel Sowers had / made / was selling ? Ive got a few of there products , and I have no complaints http://www.ebay.com/sch/t.m.resin/m.html?item=382019688011&hash=item58f225d64b%3Ag%3A2nUAAOSwDN1UQaZl&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

Not my idea. But its been one of the best tips I ever received. Thanks to Steve Guthmiller ,aka the Master of the old annuals. On emblems and small name plates. I do the bare metal foil on them 1st, before any paint of primer goes on. Then once painted and before clear ( if I even need to clear it ) take a small Tamiya pointed Q tip dipped in lacquer thinner and very carefully wipe the pain off the raised emblems . Depending on the emblem a toothpick dipped in same lacquer thinner works nice as well A few examples Ive done with it.

Nice, I made a mistake, Mine is a 63 not a 62 . So,,,, my hunt continues for a clean builder or distressed 62 Promo

Are the decals to do either one of these cars avail ? besides custom made .

Ive got a file box full of them , and would just as soon get rid of them all . All my subscriptions expired years ago and no interest to renew any . Every once in a while I may pick up one at the grocery store or Barnes / Noble if it catches my eye.

Tamiya White is pretty thin. But if you spray a bit into a cup or something and let it sit a little while it thickens up. Making it super easy to use as a touch up. . Once dry maybe dab a little clear over it ,,,after a few days just rub it out . Ive done this dozens of times with decent results

i'll admit. I'd buy a couple.of those.

For me personally Its pretty simple. Costs and issues with resin - A Modelhaus resin kit was over $100 . A nice builder styrene kit runs on average of $100- $125 give or take depending on the day . ( I just bought one for right at $110 ) I can work with plastic without issues / requirements of a specialty glue or paint or procedures a resin kit requires . For me, the only way I buy a resin kit is if the subject is or never has been avail in plastic ( mid 60s Dodge pickup as an example ) Again this is only MY reasoning behind it. Of course, now that Ive got one. someone will announce an all new tooling of one ( you guys can thanks me later )

One of the best looking Chevrolets ever made

If all you need is a hood and glass, I'll bet Ive got those in the pile .

Interior is done. ( well except I now see I have to put another coat of tan on the pkg shelf area. ) Made my own front bench seat using a rear seat from a second kit . And added a turn signal lever to the steering column and added a auto brake pedal to backside of the dash . Also ground the molded in 4 spd shifter hump off the floor pan ( 1/1 car was push button auto on the dash ) then covered it with a metallic brown embossing powder for carpet

Won this one over the weekend. At about $30 delivered to my door. I'm not going to feel bad when I take it apart to use a basis for a drag car build. I sure cant find a decent 62 Galaxie hardtop annual kit for that kind of money . The stock wheel and tires I need for one of my convertible annuals

I'll bet I know by who , Initials are JH ? If so your not the only ones they've copied . Once I found out they were selling copies of others decals , I quit buying from him. And I'm told the quality is not all that good

Sadly that's the risk one takes when they send it out the door. Chances are somewhere , someone is going to make a copy of it at some point in time. My personal opinion is once ModelHaus has closed there doors for good. Chances are this will happen more and more Unless its copy-righted in some way , My gut feeling is there's not much can be done to prevent it or seek punitive damages once its done . Best , maybe only course of action IMO is if the culprit if found out , make the hobby aware of it.

I think he is right,,,,,,Sure looks likes one of these. If I had to guess, my bet is on the yellow one

I'm a member of a vintage drag car group on Facebook. I asked on there and the reply I got is "Power by Ford" on front fender, M&H Racemaster tire is the round one.