gtx6970

This car ? There is also a recreation around , its silver

Keeping with my theme right now with all T bolts. Makes it easy to do as they're all basically the same car with different exterior colors and decals . Duplicolor white lacquer, Top End Decals ( aka Jack Smith ) for the decals. Interior is again, a mix of Tamiya and Duplicolor paints . Im currently trying to find a circular Quaker State decal for the rear sail panel before I clear it . EDIT found one I can live with . Comments or suggestions more than welcome.

Thanks all, If I get a chance today for some bench time and If I pushed it, I could probably have the Reynolds Ford car done today. Chassis and suspension / wheel choice is done for it. And interiors are done for both. That's the advantage of building basically the same car over and over. They're all the same basic drive-train and interior colors,, just different exterior colors and decals. BUT, both bodies still need all the trim BMF work done and glass glued in. ( aka my least favorite part of building )

Anyone have pics of the exact kit/ truck were talking about here ? I already have an RMR cab ,,but its a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck body. I want the 1+1/2 ton truck with the extended front fender flares and running boards

AND this one

I might. But I'll be honest I would most definitely would be if it was the 70 style grille

This is the AMT body with the Johan grill. And maybe 5 minutes with a dremel to remove the molded in panel behind the grill,, ( thats not supposed to be there anyway ) it needs a little sanding on the insides of the fenders to make it fit better there . But its a major improvement ,,,IMO

I dont know if Modlelhaus did or not. BUT,,,,,I know for a fact R+R did . Ive got one still in the box that I bought solely to cut the roof off of to replicate my old car . And I just cant bring myself to do that to a Johan body . If you want / can make a resin copy . I'll send you one of my extra Johan grills ,,, just send me back the original when your done. Actually if someone like say Missing Link wants to copy it. I'll make them the same offer. All I need back is my original.

And now the AMT grille compared to the extremely accurate Johan piece. as well as a side shot to show the minuscule GTX emblems. To me these are the most blatant errors on this particular kit. The dropping rear quarter panels can be elevated to some degree by sanding off some of the exaggerated bow to the top of the rear quarters right about where the C pillars enter the quarter panel

For those who want to know. Here is an actual grille for a 1969 GTX ( sport satellite is the exact same grille btw )

Thanks all. And a special thanks to member Elvin Gaither aka mredjr With the decal issues I had , he sent me the lettering I needed to replace the name on tops of the doors. They are now back on, sealed down with the some future and the car is done, waxed and in my case with the others,,likely to never come out again. So its on to the next in line,,,,,, just not sure which one 1st, Maybe even another dual build.

Ive not noticed any issue without cleaning the pen tips. Ive used them and put the cap back right away. Take it back out a few days later with no issues. That said, One thing I will say. Once you put the 'chrome ' on ,,,don't handle it it any way. Even after its dried for a few days. I used it to trim the window frames on one and even with minimal handling the chrome looses it brilliance quick. From here on ,I'll use them for what I bought them for....... Interior detailing only

Yep, the only thing I remember was the 68 hood in the 69 kit . My biggest pet peave on the 69 GTX is the grill isnt even close to accurate to a 1/1 , then there's the tiny GTX emblems on the quarters. and dont even get me started on the overall body shape. I just bought a nice builder Johan . If I can come up with another Johan body, I'll have 2. ( i have everything else for a 2nd Johan 69 gtx ) Why someone hasn't done a 68 GTX conversion in all these years has me baffled . I started one , but this is as far as I got . I made the tail panel and tail lights from scratch and the side emblems are shaved off the monogram body and glued to the AMT body

Whats the difference between one with a .05mm and one with .03mm . it the tip size ? ,,or maybe cup size ? https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Procon-Trigger-Airbrush/dp/B001AC51T2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489096960&sr=8-1&keywords=mr+airbrush+trigger https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Procon-Trigger-Airbrush/dp/B0007U92MU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1489096960&sr=8-2&keywords=mr+airbrush+trigger

Wheels look killer and actually look 'almost' as nice as kit wheels off a chrome tree . I pushed them in the tires a few days after 'chroming' and haven't touched them since, so they look pretty good. The trim around the windows themselves not so much,,,,, with just normal handling assembling a kit the window trim turned to almost a Testors silver. Once the car was done, I carefully went back over the trim with a 1mm pen. Now I just have to be a little more careful how I pick it up. As the body side moldings are still bare metal foil so I just grab the car from the sides of the body if I have to pick it up

Cool deal . Does this kit have the correct Pontiac power train in it ( I've never opened mine yet to ck )

Just for my own info, I assume this is the Arnie Beswick 69 GTO . That car was carousel red correct ? ( if your in fact your building that particular car ,,if not carry on ) Ive got this kit to build here someday soon and don't want to have to go looking for some fancy paint if not needed

2nd part of my dual build. The Bob Ford - Len Richter driven - 4 speed car. Finished it up last night . Duplicolor Ford gold exterior with a mix of Tamiya champagne gold and Duplicolor Arizona beige on the interior with the white door panel inserts picked out by hand . Other than the decals its straight out of the box. Wheels are done with the chrome pen and I like them,,they have the chrome reverse look to them I was after. All the window trim was done with a chrome pen,,,,,and I will NOT be doing that again. If you handle the car at all ,,even after letting it dry a few days,,it'll still fingerprint and dull the finish. The Fred Cady decals on this one fought me tooth and nail. They cracked when trying to lift them off the carrier sheet , and after drying over night they wanted to just fall off the car. So I quickly put a top coat of future over them to 'hopefully' seal them down. I'll usually use wet look clear but I was afraid the force of the panting would blow them off the car. I decided to drag all the T bolts I have finished for a family photo just for fun Again thanks for looking and comment or criticisms more then welcome.

Excellent information people. I learned something about these cars in this endeavor . But ,,,Right or wrong the engine in my Tasca Ford build is blue.. Sorry, but I'm not taking it apart to change it ( it'll never be contest judged anyway) I just ckd ,,,,,The engine in my Gas Ronda car are also blue . But,,,,in my defense it was done before I really started to use the internet to gather information. And after cking it, i found the engine in my Hubert Platt car is black. Luckily I had recently seen the 1/1 in person when I built that one Ive got 3 more in process and will paint the engines in all of the them black. The Bob Ford car ( I finished it tonight actually ) . I also have a Mike Grey driven Reynolds Ford and the Al Means Ford car of Phil Bonner. Oddly enough once done, all 6 I'll have in the case are 4 spd cars Ive got decals to do 2 different Butch Leal cars, and the Conner Ford car. I guess I need to round up some more kits for cheap

Nope, nadda none. Its black . On the foil it had to go over it a time or 2 mainly to cover the foil ,, but thats it. Ive used one to highlight molded in under hood wiring to molded in shifter linkages on transmissions

Not sure about rings there, but they have small gauge beading wire that's silver ( gold as well ) and is relatively soft so would be pretty easy to mash it flat

The window ' trim ' on this one is also a black sharpie

Run a black sharpie down the side of it using just side of the tip / felt that's how I did this one.

BUT, It would be a no brainer if all you had to buy was an airbrush. Problem is it also requires a compressor, cleaners and everything else that goes with it. . Plus storage of it all. With these prevail sprayers once done you can drop them in the trash if you want and buy another one if or when you need them again. , actually several times before your on the door step of a complete air brush costs The prevail sprayers have there niche,,, Whether that's in the modeling world or not I cant answer. But if I was limited on funds and / or space I would give one a try . Its not like every build I do where I need to drag out the air brush to paint it. I actually avoid it if I can find something close to the color I'm after in a rattle can. Last year I built maybe 12 - 13 kits, and I only had to drag the airbrush out twice. If I could have found the colors I wanted in a rattle can , It would still be there collecting dust . I am well aware an airbrush can allow for a much better overall finish. But Ive seen some quality builds done with nothing but a rattle can as well .

Never noticed this before. But with some creative masking one could get pretty close to this actual car with just that sheet