Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

MAGNUM4342

Members
  • Posts

    1,236
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by MAGNUM4342

  1. Way better than the bird most people give you huh Harry?
  2. Very nice! One thing I always liked about these cars...it looks like it's wearing a driving cap.
  3. VERRRRRRRY nice!
  4. Good looking car, but your plug wires look way too big.
  5. All kidding aside, I think it would have to be the 1/16th Petty Charger kit. I could build all his cars from '72 to '77 and all the other chargers that ran in the '71 to '77 era. It's a phenomenal kit that can stand on it's own without extra additives.
  6. Mope, nopenope...can't do it, won't do it, you can't make me!
  7. Not a thing wrong with my eyesight. This was originally posted in tips and tech until a mod moved it.
  8. If that is the case, I have to retract my earlier offer. Sorry Joseph, didn't know the backstory here.
  9. Bill, my supposition here was (OP correct me if i'm wrong) that the OP was using the semi gloss as if one would use a filler primer, only clear, to get the valley's filled in before sanding. Am I correct Andrew?
  10. If you can provide me with the proper artwork for it I will make you a set of usable decals NOT on Testors paper. P.M.me.
  11. I agree with Joseph. If you used Tamiya primer as well, then it's either spray distance or technique. Don't be distressed at this. While Tamiya paints are the best on the market they can be finicky. Weather may be a factor as well with the heat and moisture we've been enduring lately. I say strip it to plastic, then do a little practice spraying on plastic spoons (the spoon test) until you get the finish you want.
  12. You're welcome. Sorry to come across so rude but it gets really frustrating. Now for the problem at hand. What are you using as a primer? It looks to me like a possible reaction between the primer and paint.
  13. Why do folks keep posting in tips and tech for help? Questions and Answers is directly above this topic. Please post questions and requests for help there.
  14. Okey doke.
  15. How about an engine bay and chassis shot? Sorry but I suspect this is a re-painted diecast, not a kit.
  16. Thank you Bill. It's on my top ten list of modeling constants, like "If the engine block halves line up...the transmission won't!"
  17. I live with two neurotic cats. If any of the smells here bother them they haven't said anything.
  18. I tried this once at 12 and ruined a perfectly good kit. Now I know better. I use masking tape to cover the roof making sure the tape is snug to the roof where the "glass" will go. Draw out the shape of the T with a flexible ruler and a mechanical pencil. Once you've got the rough shapes drawn on remove the tape and place on a mirror, piece of glass or cutting mat. Here you can refine the shape of the tops. Mark them left and right (trust me on this ). With the shape drawn get a fresh razor knife, a steel straightedge and a box of band-aids. If the band aids are in reach odds are you won't cut yourself, but be carefull anyway. Cut the shapes of the T-tops free from the rest of the tape and reaffix them to the roof. These will be the guides to cut out the T-tops. Use whatever method you are comfortable with to cut them out. Back of a blade, dental pick, whatever to scribe around the tape. Most people make the mistake of rushing this step. Work slowly and at first you are just lightly scratching the surface. It's tedious but well worth the effort. After a few passes you'll see the groove getting bigger until it pops free. Clean the edges of the new T with an emery board to keep them straight and sand in whatever style corners it has, rounded or sharp. Clean the straight edges of the opening the same way and use rolled sandpaper for rounded corners. At this time you have simple T-tops in solid plastic. Evergreen or plastruct sheet and strip will build a clean, proper looking framework for them to rest on. Cut a sheet of plastic larger than the tops but the same shape and glue it into the opening. Then cut it back out leaving about a 1.5 mm ledge all the way around. For clear T-tops you can use the T's for bucks to vaccu-form them or have them resin cast in clear or clear tint. I can help you with that.
  19. Definitely. I don't know LeMan's cars that well but I would start in tips and tech. Try as many key word variations as you can think of including "braided lines". It's a time consumer but well worth the effort.
  20. Ira, why is it rvery time you start one of these builds I get the urge to pop some popcorn?!
  21. SWEET MOTHER of MOPAR! Now there's a pair of builds just made for a magazine cover! LOVEM!
  22. I agree with Rob, the electric pink from Testors should be just the ticket. Rob- screw up or not I like how that wagon came out.
  23. I would look up Chimneyville. They do alot of police and other emergency vehicle decals.
  24. It's a personal taste kinda thing to be sure. Back in the day when I was spending alot of time around the Petty's, I remember Richard and Kyle both would ask where you wanted the car signed. Even going so far as to ask if you would rather have them sign the package so as not to mar the car. I don't like sigs on my cars either, but for a fan who doesn't mind it's a cool thing.
×
×
  • Create New...