Miatatom

2000 Mazda Miata Special Edition (2318 of 3000).

Looks like you've got an issue of orange peel. That can come from moving your airbrush too fast or holing it too far away from the model. Sometimes you can sand it out, provided it isn't a metallic or pearl.

Charlie is correct IMHO. The 3-M blue vinyl tape is super. They had 1/4" and 1/8". I got the 1/4". Not too wide to lay down nicely on some curves. You might have to cut the 1/4" some if you're doing really sharp curves though.

Great job! I've got a Gulf blue car to do. What the source for the blue you used?

My avatar says it all. Great job! Which kit did you use?

The only tape I'll use for paint lines is 3M vinyl tape. It's pricey but works perfectly. The key word is vinyl.

The cup is 1/4 ounce. Mine doesn't spit as long as the paint is thinned correctly.

If you get a "H", get all three tips. I got mine on eBay fairly cheap. The smaller tip should help you with interior work with the #3 and #5 being what most are using on bodies. You can get the various size bottles at Hobby Lobby and save by using their weekly 40% off coupons. I got a couple of color cups. I use one for lacquers and one for acrylics. They're easy to clean out.

I will add to my post that if I change colors, I take everything apart and clean it.

Nice job! I'd love to get one and replicate my vintage race car.

I have all three sizes of tips for the Paasche H. I'm using the #5 right now. I think Yost uses the #3. I'm still learning.

I bought a Badger Patriot 105 and also bought the 0.5 mm needle and tip assembly. It worked well and I turned out a few nice paint jobs. After seeing so many people recommending the Paasche H, I bought on. That was a few months ago. I haven't touched the Badger since. People like Donn Yost and several on Youtube use and recommend the Passche H. Everyone has their preferences but I was amazed at how easily the H is to use and clean.

If it's a gravity feed, empty the contents of the bowl, wipe it out and shoot cleaner through it. If it's a suction feed, remove the bowl/jar and replace with one filled with cleaner and spray it through it. That's what I do.

Happy trails!

Welcome Marcos! I was lucky enough, as a US Navy sailor, to visit your country in 63, 64 and 65. We made port in Salvador and Rio each year. Your country is so beautiful, especially the view from Corcovado. The cab ride to the top was an adventure!

Welcome, Dan! I also spend a lot of time researching, especially on this forum. It's a great resource.

Call me the oddball but I really like 1956 with 1960 and 1961 close behind. 1966 was really a good year too.

Great looking model!

Shelby, Barris, the icons are passing on. Thanks George for all you did for the car people.

I took your advice and did Google it. From dictionary.com: noun, Electricity 1. a stationary electric charge built up on an insulating material. the electric charge at rest on the surface of an insulated body (which establishes an adjacent electrostatic field) I agree, wood can not carry a static charge. I think the key words in the definitions are "on the surface of an insulating material". My booth does have a plexiglass window which could hold a charge. The model car body can also carry a charge. That's why many here on the forum spray them with a mixture of alcohol and water to try to eliminate it. Someone called it an old pinstripers trick. PS Not trying to be snippy with the balloon comment, just giving another example.

Balloons can't conduct electricity either but they can hold a static charge.

I spray the models prior to painting with an alcohol/water mixture that I read about here on the forum. Does anyone have any suggestions for eliminating static charge in a wooden spray booth?

What's the best color to use for the BRE cars that will match the red in the decals? I use lacquers.

Great job! The first car I ever bought was a 61 Impala 2DHT. Still my favorite old Chevy.

100% Heck. I've rode in most of them!