Miatatom

I took your advice and did Google it. From dictionary.com: noun, Electricity 1. a stationary electric charge built up on an insulating material. the electric charge at rest on the surface of an insulated body (which establishes an adjacent electrostatic field) I agree, wood can not carry a static charge. I think the key words in the definitions are "on the surface of an insulating material". My booth does have a plexiglass window which could hold a charge. The model car body can also carry a charge. That's why many here on the forum spray them with a mixture of alcohol and water to try to eliminate it. Someone called it an old pinstripers trick. PS Not trying to be snippy with the balloon comment, just giving another example.

Balloons can't conduct electricity either but they can hold a static charge.

I spray the models prior to painting with an alcohol/water mixture that I read about here on the forum. Does anyone have any suggestions for eliminating static charge in a wooden spray booth?

What's the best color to use for the BRE cars that will match the red in the decals? I use lacquers.

Great job! The first car I ever bought was a 61 Impala 2DHT. Still my favorite old Chevy.

100% Heck. I've rode in most of them!

My booth is 2x3x3. I use a 135 CFM bilge blower I got off eBay for $15. Works fine!

Here's some info I've saved.

I'm just about to that point that the entire room needs a good cleaning!

Me too!

Here are some pics of my booth. http://smg.photobucket.com/user/baddogracing/library/Glove Box Paint Booth?sort=9&page=1 I used a bilge blower to move the air (eBay) and plumbing parts for the air outlet in the bottom and the arm holes. I've made several changes to it since I took these pics. Mounted 4 flood lamps on the top where the filter was for more lighting. The pics don't have captions so let me know if you need any descriptions.

I got a resin kit for the ship I served on in the 60s. It was the USS Norfolk (DL-1) from http://freetimehobbies.com/larsenal-usa/ I haven't built it yet. Still learning the skills necessary to tackle a 1/700 scale. The kit wasn't cheap and I don't want to mess it up. The guy that runs L'arsenal is Tony Bunch. His email addy is larsenal_usa@cox.net A great guy to work with. He even sold me the stuff to convert the ship to the configuration it was when I was aboard (ASROC launcher and bigger gun mounts).

You read my mind, Ed! Cheetah, especially around the hip area.

Beautiful work! What do you use for masking?

I love off the wall stuff like this. Cool name too!

I agree with Brett. Use the stuff made for the job. I've tried the art stuff and the finishes I get from model car paints is superior. Others will disagree but that's my experience. Fish eye is caused by contamination from a variety of sources. After sanding, wash the parts with Dawn dish soap. It's a great degreaser. Love that avatar, Brett!

I recently finished the Monogram Essex Cobra. The finished product was the worst job I've done since returning the hobby. I coated the decals with Micro Industries Decal Film. When I applied them, there was residue from the decal film on the edge of each decal. I call them decal film buggers. Some wiped off with a damp Q-tip, but the final results were pretty poor. When I applied the film, I just painted it on with a small flat brush that I use exclusively for decal work. I applied it liberally to the sheet and the didn't try to stay away from the edges of the decals. Should I be applying it with the brush? Should I try to apply it as close to the edge of each individual decal as possible and not get any beyond the edge?

Here's something that I can't work without. I bought two of them and mounted each to a short section of 2 x 6. Makes the whole thing hefty so I doesn't get knocked around easily. Like Pete said with his clothes pin post, you can hold parts for painting gluing, etc. The rubber covered jaws are easy on plastic. http://www.harborfreight.com/2-3-4-quarter-inch-articulated-vacuum-vise-3311.html

Nice tool, Bill but I don't think that pocket clip is a good idea. Knowing me, I'd probably put the thing in my pocket with the blade out.

Using heat is risky, especially if you've never attempted something like this. Can't sand the edges down? Maybe someone who has done it can teach us both.

I've just bought a Paasche H. It came with the #5 color adjusting part and air cap. If I use a #1 or #3 color adjusting part, do I need the corresponding air cap? What effect would it have if I just used the #5 air cap?

Great job! Makes me want to watch Goldfinger again.

That kit's got a lot of nice extra parts.

Go to a Panera Bread store and get some of their stirring sticks. They're wooden and about 10-12" long and about 1/4 - 5/16" wide. Get some sand paper , apply super glue to the stick and press it onto a sand paper. Easy and cheap sanding sticks.

A lot of stuff can be found at Harbor Freight. Clamps. small vises. cheap airbrushes, etc.