Speedfreak Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Looks really good Richard, nice work on the fuel pressure gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 thnx gene !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 made a top edge from superthin copperplate an that turned into making the whole outside from copper ,, i think and hope it stays that way that it relly looks like a real radiator that way .. not a fancy alu one but a reguilair .. its not done yet and i need to flatten the copper more by filing and sanding .. but ...almost there will continue tomorrow .. then make hose connections ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 If only the original builder could see it now...Agreed!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedfreak Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 The copper radiator is an excellent idea Richard! Will look really good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 thnx ! well i need to redo some stuff .. i finished the flat copper (will get some depth with layers) but then relialized it was hard to make something realistic on the engine side due to the hinge .. now i made brass tube waterhose connections .. one in the left top side and one lower on the right .. the lower one is way to high it needs to sit on the bottom but like said .. that hinge prevents to make that part visible .. all not optimal .. now i messured and moved it a tad .. so now below the hinge bar and chassis .. i have a ridge just wide enough to be able to put some copper on and make the brass hose connection there at the lowest point .. the one in the pic is almost in the middle and thats just stupid .. so i will close that and make it look like a sort of cap .. otherwise i need to redo that .. or maybe make it like a sensor with a wire to read watertemp ?? so will be continued with a new connection Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 (edited) so i fixed the problem of the ower hose connection made the old one sit flush and added a small brass pin made it look technical lol ...then made a new one way at the bottom so i could fit a whole radiator in front of the chassis and hinge bar ... but then that part wont be visible .. so i did not build the part of the radiator where the chassis and hinge bar are .. so now i can glue the hingebar to the red plastic of the radiator and that together on the chassis .. it now has and edge and thats great when after paint i want to glue on the flip front and align it all .. so the only compromise is that the chassis and hige bar sit a bit inside the radiator .. insted of not seeing the radiator in that earea because they sit in front of it .. now i think when its all painted black you hardly notice that ....chassis will be black , hinge will be black so i will do the radiator in black as well Edited February 23, 2016 by crazyrichard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 added 2 strips to create some depth and made a filler neck , i have to make a cap for that as protection for the coolribs and since part is visible and in the open i used steel mesh then the rear styrene part looked horrible so i also put it on the rear dryfit (very loose fit) almost a shame to paint it but in copper it doesnt make sense seen from the bottom after the alteration you see a radiator and the hose connection worked into the edge some testfits with the engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 i put the mesh in clamped tight now i knew i wanted it on i cut it to size and glued it in it sits deeper now , looks better imo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedfreak Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 (edited) i put the mesh in clamped tight now i knew i wanted it on i cut it to size and glued it in it sits deeper now , looks better imo Richard, couldn't you just leave the top part of the radiator copper and paint the rest black? The tubing for the connections and the cap is so cool! Edited February 23, 2016 by Speedfreak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
talon63 Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Incredible build. The attention to detail is amazing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Nice work on the radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 24, 2016 Author Share Posted February 24, 2016 thnx guys ! and gene .. yes but that would still not make sense its not a car from the 1800's .. i never saw copper on radiators in cars of that era ??i think painted it will still look great (hope) one thing you cant do with styrene or plastics .. the copper is su[erthing and on edges you see that , the seems i kept visible on purpose makes it kind of look welded .. i mean on real radiators you also see seems ..i'm thinking doing it flat matt black .... i have played with the idea of making a aluminium radiator .. 2 things made me try the copper , first superglue doesnt glue alu very well .. i need to get some different glue just for alu .. and second i want to keep the charger a tad more vintage , sure the carb isnt ... but i dont want to go to modern day on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 24, 2016 Author Share Posted February 24, 2016 hmm i went google on it and found this article (that said i think they would still paint the copper black)>> This is a well-built copper/brass reproduction radiator for a vintage ‘60s Camaro with a 427. While it has serious cooling capacity, the aluminum radiator in Photo 2 not only outcools it, but weighs less too. Still, copper/brass is the way to go if you’re restoring a classic vehicle or musclecar back to stock. http://www.onallcylinders.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/hot-licks-3-600x400.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 24, 2016 Author Share Posted February 24, 2016 well first the roll cage weather was nice so i put some chrome on that bling bling man thats makes difference ! thnx loek ! nou eerst de rolkooi even .. die heb ik eindelijk chroom gespoten het was redelijk weer en ik spuit buiten ..bling bling then the radiator .. just went ahead and painted it .. looks great imo still shows its not styrene .. i love it close up , not dryed so still some gloss spots .. its all matte now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 sawed of a piece of a aircraft grade rivet .....its got like a cool circle and a "hole" in the center (not really a hole) looks like it could be a pressure cap .. claped it down and sawed of the piece .. it perfect for what i needed everything soon looked to bulky on the pipe ... so its got a radiator cap now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72 Charger Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Really nice work on the rad Richard . The cap is nice too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CFMgarage Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 I'm sitting here with my jaw dropped looking at your work. Well done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 WOW, Richard fantastic work.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagercr Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 Richard, I really enjoy watching the progress of this model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davewilly Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 Nice looking radiator! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 thnx guys !!!! here are some quick daylight pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6bblbird Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 Richard, you are doing some really nice work on this Charger. Great fabrication! I love what you did with the front end. Now I want to point out something that bothers me every time I see it! That tubing that you have from the fire wall to the chassis really serves no purpose. Not only that, but it would actually prevent the wheels from turning! On a real Charger, the tires come very close to the frame when turned all the way to the lock position. P.S. Don't use the power brake booster unless the engine has a stock camshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 27, 2016 Author Share Posted February 27, 2016 thnx walter ! and well yo have a point about the tubing .. but i started building it like a apocaliptic vehicle because it was a glue bomb i got for free , then changed plans ...the plan was to run bars everywhere .. when i went gasser i thought leave the bars and they would gie that whole front chassis more strirdyness ..both on my model and irl ....now the front chassis is actually out of a nascar kit ... made on the stock bottom plate of the charger ...so in the beginning the tubing gave it strenght as well .. thats not a real strong connection between front chassis and stock part ...about the steering issue i hve been looking into that and want to try and bend them inwards a bit using some heat very locally ...for now i will keep them 4 sure just because of the fact i have so much going on in the front and a moving flip front .. everything so far added weight and to rely on 2 small chassis bonds .. i'm affraid they will break over time ..now i did have the ide to remove the ones upright next to th firewall .... you know i wish i would been able to save the original chassis of the charger .. buthat was ruined .. also i just start building an then you get stuff like this ..and i will use the brake booster got that set for extra detail and will be cool to make with brakelines and all ... i tried later on in the buid to stay as real as i could .. do research and i do hve a lot of insight on how stuff works ..i dont have a tech education but i do understand a lot .. that said i dont know a whole pesific stuff about american cars ..like some here do ... thats where google comes in ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted February 27, 2016 Author Share Posted February 27, 2016 alright like said some tubing was still from the early apocaliptic theme i was planning then ... so walter had a point , i removed the side tubing on the sides of the firewall and made new plates there .. on this pic its not all tgether 100% so thats why you see a gap between body and the rest so walter was right steering was affected by the tubing ... i did notice that but also didnt want to cut them off , need some extra stirdyness .. i started filing them .. and yes they looked to thick anyway ... so now i already have more room , sides are flat now , i need to file and sand more shpe into them , in the end make them more like thinner struts .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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