printable decal paper

[CelticModeler]

Wondering who makes the best waterslide decal paper. Want to make some custom decals but heard good things and bad bout some manufactures so wanted advice on what way to go

[Ace-Garageguy]

About this I know NOTHING, but I sure would like to hear from some folks who DO know. 

[Kit Basher]

I can't say what is best, but here's my experience. I had good success with Testors. I tried Papillio. Their clear seems to work OK. Their white paper makes a fuzzy image on my inkjet printer, like the ink runs. I can print the same image on the same printer on photo paper, and it comes out perfectly. So there is no question, I am using their inkjet paper, both clear and white. I would like to find some better paper myself.

Edited March 24, 2016 by Kit Basher

[935k3]

I can't say what is best, but here's my experience. I had good success with Testors. I tried Papillio. Their clear seems to work OK. Their white paper makes a fuzzy image on my inkjet printer, like the ink runs. I can print the same image on the same printer on photo paper, and it comes out perfectly. So there is no question, I am using their inkjet paper, both clear and white. I would like to find some better paper myself.

Do you have an EPSON printer? There decals have an issue with EPSON inks. Their paper is top quality. I found it has a clear protect film that needs removed before printing or painting. Testor's isn't bad but their white is not very opaque.

[peteski]

My favorite decal paper is Bare Metal Foil paper for my Alps MicroDry printer. I use laser paper with Alps and I don't have experience with ink jet stuff.  BMF does also make ink jet decal paper.

[Tom Geiger]

I also use the Bare Metal Foil paper, but with my Canon Inkjet printer. I've only used the clear. I find it easier to paint the white area on the model rather than use the white decal paper. I believe the Micro-Mark paper is the very same stuff. I have some of each and found the sheets to be identical, including the printing on the back.

I use the Testors decal fixative.  Have had great results.

 

[Foxer]

Do you have an EPSON printer? There decals have an issue with EPSON inks. Their paper is top quality. I found it has a clear protect film that needs removed before printing or painting. Testor's isn't bad but their white is not very opaque.

This is interesting ... I tried Papillio because of all the good things said about it, but it would not lay down smooth. I tries 3 kinds of softeners and it still wouldn't set. If it does require removal of a clear protection film, their instructions did not mention this. Maybe this is what made it seem too thick to settle over bumps. That is very odd because I had no trouble printing .. with my Epson printer. Mine is an R3000 with UltraChrome K3 pigment ink, so the ink is probably different that what was mentioned.

I have been using Micro Mark paper a lot and it works very well.

[Crazy Ed]

Epson printer. Mine is an R3000 with UltraChrome K3 pigment ink, I have been using Micro Mark paper a lot and it works very well.

<ok I snipped a bunch>

  Hi Mike. I've got the same printer and am wondering if after drying is there and problem with running with the water or clear coating? And have you tried printing on Testors Decal Paper??

[crazyjim]

I get it from China through ebay.

[Bernard Kron]

Decals are an important aspect of my modeling style. I make my own decals a lot and have been designing and making my own decals for more than 8 years. I use a Canon MP560  inkjet printer. I've used Canon printers for many years because they have a separate print head and individual cartridges for black, photo black, and magenta, cyan and yellow.

I have used Experts-Choice Decal Film  from Bare Metal Foil, Testors decal paper and Papillo. The clear papers for all three brands have all worked well for me. Currently my favorite is Papillo because it appears to be slightly thinner than the others. My least favorite clear is Testors because it is sold in half-sheets (8.5" x 5.5") which is wasteful because the sheets rapidly become too small to feed through my printer. All three brands print sharply and cleanly for me using the glossy photo paper and high quality out put settings on my printer. My source files are usually 600 dpi.

The problem described above regarding ink failing to hold on the paper sounds like a problem I had with Experts-Choice Decal Film after several years when the paper become old and had accumulated some residue on it. Switching to a new stock of paper solved the problem. You can also get that problem if you attempt to print over paper that has received a coat of decal sealer or clear coat (i.e. sealers such as acrylic clear, Future, etc.). Of course if you don't use a sealer once you've printed on the bare paper the ink will run when you soak your paper. These may seem like obvious mistakes but, despite all my experience I have made them all!

White decal paper is a whole other matter for me. All white decal papers I have tried (all three brands listed above) are much thicker than the clear variety. So thick, in fact, that they don't handle at all like clear and also leave a visible white edge where they are cut. I found the Experts-Choice Decal Film  white paper totally unacceptable. It was inflexible, didn't lay down well, and had poor adhesion. It also didn't take ink as well as the other two brands. The best was Papillo which laid down OK, had good adhesion, printed very well, and was thinner than the others. It was still too thick, however, not to show a white edge.

Edited March 24, 2016 by Bernard Kron

[Kit Basher]

Do you have an EPSON printer? There decals have an issue with EPSON inks. Their paper is top quality. I found it has a clear protect film that needs removed before printing or painting. Testor's isn't bad but their white is not very opaque.

I do have an Epson printer, XP-410. I guess that explains my problem. Does anyone know of a paper that will work with a plain Jane Epson printer? Or, since printers are almost cheaper than paper, is there a low end printer that works well with Papillio?

[Tesla]

I purchase mine from DecalPaper.com and never had a problem.

[Foxer]

  Hi Mike. I've got the same printer and am wondering if after drying is there and problem with running with the water or clear coating? And have you tried printing on Testors Decal Paper??

I've been using the R3000 at the highest photographic print setting with no problems. I usually let the print sit for half a day or so before I apply the clear acrylic spray coating .. a couple light coats seems to do it. Once I do this I have never had any problems with ink running when soaking them.

I have used Testors decal paper but only once. I didn't have any specific problem but just had a lot of Micro Mark stuff on hand. It seemed competent.

 

 

Their paper is top quality. I found it has a clear protect film that needs removed before printing or painting.

I have heard of this clear film that has to be removed before but on Papilio's site there in no mention of it in all their How To Print instructions, nor is there any mention in the documentation that comes with it.

Could you explain more?
 

[Crazy Ed]

I've been using the R3000 at the highest photographic print setting with no problems. I usually let the print sit for half a day or so before I apply the clear acrylic spray coating .. a couple light coats seems to do it. Once I do this I have never had any problems with ink running when soaking them.

I have used Testors decal paper but only once. I didn't have any specific problem but just had a lot of Micro Mark stuff on hand. It seemed competent.

 

     With the Pigment Ink, do you sitll need to clear coat prior to dunking into the water to apply?

[Exotics_Builder]

I use a color laser for my decals.  There is also an advantage where you can use color appliques that will adhere to the black toner after passing through the printer (or heat laminator).  I've used some Detail Master and Micro Mark paper with no opinions yet on one being better than another.  I also clear with Microscale Decal Film to be sure no bleed.

All clear decals are somewhat translucent and you need to consider this in regards to the model color.  Sometimes you will need to double up to keep the model color from coming through, which adds to thickness (Fred Cady's decals were thin enough that this was less of an issue).  I have yet to experiment with creating a white base for the decals to eliminate the translucency.  Probably won't don't that until after we move and I set back up,

[Lunajammer]

Microscale Laser paper... Pretty happy with how it printed. Seemed a tad thick for working on compound curves but with patience and setting solution it settles down. However it was really bad for ink flaking off when cutting tight areas with a knife, like around the door handles. Straight cuts were okay, shaped cuts, not so much.

Edit: This was the white paper with clear enamel sealer.

Edited March 24, 2016 by Lunajammer

[Jantrix]

This was done with an HP ink jet printer and the white decals paper from BareMetal Foil.

[Pete J.]

Paper is only half of the equation.  The other half is the ink and printer.  If the images are fuzzy on an inkjet printer, you should check the quality settings on your printer.  Set the DPI to the maximum your printer will handle.  This reduces the amount of ink deposited at any given site and thus reduces the "running".  Gives you a sharper image.  Some papers work better than others with given inks.  I use the Papilio with HP printer and ink with excellent results.  Different inks and printers may not do that.  I would suggest one of their sample packs to check it out. 

Also, I use clear automotive lacquer as a top coat.  This works for me because it has a flex agent added.  I spray as thin a coat as I can.  A thicker coat will prevent the decal from conforming to the surface.  Also all the solvents must be put down under the decal as the paint on top will prevent it from penetrating.

To save paper, I cut the sheets into 4X5 and run it through the photo tray on my printer.  That way you don't waist a lot of paper. 

[Foxer]

     With the Pigment Ink, do you sitll need to clear coat prior to dunking into the water to apply?

oh yes, with any ink an acrylic clear is needed

[Crazy Ed]

oh yes, with any ink an acrylic clear is needed

  Thanks

[Tom Geiger]

Regarding saving decal paper and using small pieces...  I tape it to a regular piece of paper.   When printing just a few decals, I run the decal on regular paper. I then take that sheet and put a decal paper sheet over it, positioning the decal paper to cover the images printed on the paper. I tape the leading edge.  Works every time.

I always print several to many of the decals I want.  The sheets don't always print evenly and the decal fixative can make some ink run.  So if you have several of each image, you can pick the best ones for your project. Plus, if you screw up applying one you have more!

 

Edited March 25, 2016 by Tom Geiger

[935k3]

I've been using the R3000 at the highest photographic print setting with no problems. I usually let the print sit for half a day or so before I apply the clear acrylic spray coating .. a couple light coats seems to do it. Once I do this I have never had any problems with ink running when soaking them.

I have used Testors decal paper but only once. I didn't have any specific problem but just had a lot of Micro Mark stuff on hand. It seemed competent.

 

 

 

I have heard of this clear film that has to be removed before but on Papilio's site there in no mention of it in all their How To Print instructions, nor is there any mention in the documentation that comes with it.

Could you explain more?
 

I discovered it when taping down the edge of a small piece to paint. It lifted off and the decal was still there and worked normally without the sheet on top and was much thinner. Try it on a small piece.

Edited March 25, 2016 by 935k3

[935k3]

Regarding saving decal paper and using small pieces...  I tape it to a regular piece of paper.   When printing just a few decals, I run the decal on regular paper. I then take that sheet and put a decal paper sheet over it, positioning the decal paper to cover the images printed on the paper. I tape the leading edge.  Works every time.

I always print several to many of the decals I want.  The sheets don't always print evenly and the decal fixative can make some ink run.  So if you have several of each image, you can pick the best ones for your project. Plus, if you screw up applying one you have more!

 

This method is what I do and it saves allot of paper

Edited March 25, 2016 by 935k3