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Bantam Fuel Altered - New pics 1-7


Codi

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Tim the headers look great. It was great to see your reaction to some of the cars at Dragfest and how you look for details on the 1:1 cars. It's obvious you were absorbing information to pour into the builds we see on here. It was a great show and seeing Garlits and Larson together.....legends. And to Joe - that Sidewinder is wild looking. I can't imagine driving that thing. Very short wheelbase. I feel blessed to be able to learn from the guys on here and to be able to go to shows like Bruce's Dragfest. Can't wait to see more Tim.

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Wonderful.

Tim, just a question, I'd love to hear your advice and insight.

It appears to me that through annealing of the brass tubes for the headers that a definite structural collapse has occurred during the heating and bending process.  Here the area I'm asking advice, for all of the tubes;

 photo -a collapse 1 b_zpskvclkhjy.jpg

Since you're painting the headers, do you feel that paint can fill the creases?  Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Another question if you don't mind.  Would you suggest soldering the ends of the header tubes also?  The pic suggests the header tube tips are soldered together, along with the brace bar.  What a wonderful idea.

Just excellent.

Many thanks.

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When you can explain to me Michael why your 4 link chassis frame brackets are on upside down, I might take your "query" seriously.   I have NO desire to respond to you in any way shape or form but enough is enough.  I'm not "OBLIGATED" to do so even though this is an open forum.  I had a direct, private conversation with you over a year ago wherein I made it clear that I have no respect for you as a person and therefore have made EVERY effort to just ignore you.  It seems you just can't take a hint.  So, let the name calling begin from your end.  I could care less as in my opinion, you continue to "poison" this forum.  

Hey Harry, let me know when you want to finally drop in on this and put this "troll" in his place once and for all.  I'm about to leave this forum because of "contributors" such as Michael.  You're nothing but a "bomb thrower" Michael.  I have proven myself in answering any and all questions AND criticisms over the last few years on this forum in a proper and professional manner.  They were all well given with proper intention and I have NEVER dodged any or all.  But not  so in your case.  Maybe you should go back and re-read Harry's comments in the "How to Use this Forum" from last year related to "BANS" and your "contribution" to that particular call out Michael,  it seems you don't ever learn.  

I have not forgotten the recent call out of me personally on Dave (comp1839's) thread as the "arrogant" one and the snide comments that went along with it.  Nor should I.  If I'm not clear on my feelings about you here, well, I can't help ya' there.  I don't expect you to take my advice, but it remains the same as before, lets agree to disagree and just get on with it without the "drama".

No "cheers" here. 
 

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"When you can explain to me Michael why your 4 link chassis frame brackets are on upside down, I might take your "query" seriously."

Huh?

I can only write that I am not an expert modeler, just that I ask decent questions.

These also, in a decent manner.

Could you offer some info about your experience with annealing brass tubes? 

 

 

 

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Pretty simple Dave, I'll just go back to NOT feeding the troll.  Sooner or later he'll starve to death.  He just proved my point about why I have NO respect for him as a person.  No further explanation is necessary.  For anyone else that does have questions about the build I will happily respond and attempt to assist as I always have.  cheers, tim

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Mooneyz  was my inspiration for these v band clamps. After looking at his for the Vega, I wanted to try and do a better job replicating them.  These are brass and will be plated with nickel.  They're better than my others.  The threaded bolt is .5mm and the overall diameter of each is less than 4.0mm.  They'll slip over each end of the driveshaft tube.  I prefer the ones that Chris made but in 1/25th their are some compromises that I had to make.  cheers, tim

DSC 0022

DSC 0039

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Tim... All I can say is that you are Killing this build with the details my friend. Man I am loving the headers and I love those V-Band Clamps ;).  I had enough trouble making them in 1/16th scale. I couldn't imagine making them in 1/25th... Wow is all I can say. Keep up the great work.

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Tim those clamps are gorgeous.  Please dont leave the forum. Your work is inspirational for all of us,. Best remedy for trolls is the ignore user feature.  it hides any comments and also blocks pms. In essence they dont exist. Handy for ignoring people who offer little value to the site.

Edited by bobthehobbyguy
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....Please dont leave the forum.  Best remedy for trolls is the ignore user feature.  it hides any comments and also blocks pms. In essence they dont exist. Handy for ignoring people who offer little value to the site.

I agree wholeheartedly.  This way bobthehobbyguy, I don't have to read the nonsense you like to post.

When you gonna show your 1st model?  4000 posts, maybe with the 5000th we can see something?

Truly a great contributor here, many thanks.

 

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Thanks everyone for your comments.  I have to laugh that in the time I did these, Dave (comp1839) machined almost an entire clutch.  How ridiculous is that (he said rhetorically) ?   I did want to answer Bob's question while saying thanks for his tips that he offered me as well.  BIG THANKS BOB! 

I started with 5/32" brass tube & drilled it out with a 3.5mm bit so it slips over the driveshaft tube. Then using a jewelers saw I cut it close to width at approx. 1.5mm and this forms the band portion.

Step 2 - cut a slice into the brass band so I could solder a piece of .8mm brass tube onto one side. I filed / sanded the tube to match the width of the band and then used a super thin jewelers cut-off wheel to slice into the center of the brass tube. My smallest round diamond file widened the groove so that the .5 mm threaded piece would lay down properly.

Step 3-  I drilled a #79 hole into a .8mm brass tube. Then I ground down the end of a .5mm brass bolt and soldered it into the tube.  Then cut it close to the width I needed & soldered the tube/bolt onto the end of the brass band with the threaded portion fitting down onto the half of the clamp.  

Clean up and minor filing brought the portions into square. Added the nut and just have to plate yet.  I think the steps when matched up to the pics will make more sense. Hope it helps anyone interested in replicating these.   cheers everyone.  tim

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Tim... Thanks for sharing your process on the clamps. They turned out killer.  I can't wait to see how they look one plated. Now if I can get my plating to turn out like yours. I have been struggling with it but hopefully I will figure it out sooner than later.... Lol

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To add to Pauls pic... Here is a company that I used quite a bit for one of the aerospace companies I worked for where we bought our V-band clamps for our test stands and hooking up APU's to our engine test cells.

http://www.clampco.com/products/v-band-std.asp

Here is a couple of screen shots to show the different styles of Latches that can be on them:

 

 

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