Belugawrx Posted September 21, 2018 Author Posted September 21, 2018 (edited) Started on some engine bay detailing,... Scratched a Dry sump oil container In place Brake fluid reservoir close... And a start on the Interior,...Bmf'd and ( Tamiya flat black(2 drops), and Tamiya Clear Flat 10 drops)wash on the right ( dry now) Will be moving on to front suspension,.those huge slabs of plastic tie rod ends had to go and a very timid attempt at opening and closing, some holes in the body loose lug on the right rear, looks like.... I thought of opening the rear or the doors, but your right, these Fujimi kits are ultra fragile Edited September 21, 2018 by Belugawrx
afx Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 (edited) 8 hours ago, Belugawrx said: So,...the back of the rears 'could' be ground off, to sneak them under the stock fenders,...? Yes the rim could be narrowed to fit but not sure how the wheel would look in a narrow tire. I'll get you a photo of the deep off-set wheel in the stock tires. Detailing/scratch building looks great. Edited September 21, 2018 by afx
Italianhorses Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 Looks good, but the oil tank is incorrect. The filler tube should go directly into the tank, slightly at an angle, and stick out quite a bit more.
Belugawrx Posted September 21, 2018 Author Posted September 21, 2018 Yes, I've seen that oil tank (Google is your friend), it is not in the engine compartment,..it's for testing only...on a rolling rack. Mine is at maximum height, just before it keeps the hood open... Thanks
Italianhorses Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 (edited) 9 minutes ago, Belugawrx said: Yes, I've seen that oil tank (Google is your friend), it is not in the engine compartment,..it's for testing only...on a rolling rack. Mine is at maximum height, just before it keeps the hood open... Thanks I wasn't talking about position of the tank. I was talking about the length, angle, and location of the fill tube. ] Edited September 21, 2018 by Italianhorses
Belugawrx Posted September 21, 2018 Author Posted September 21, 2018 I wasn't talking about position of the tank either,... I'm saying if the filler tube is any longer it will keep the hood open.... It is angled towards the front enough, for me,...Once I add more lines and wires it will be barely visible. Thanks
Italianhorses Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 (edited) 21 minutes ago, Belugawrx said: I wasn't talking about position of the tank either,... I'm saying if the filler tube is any longer it will keep the hood open.... It is angled towards the front enough, for me,...Once I add more lines and wires it will be barely visible. Thanks Sure. I was just pointing out that right now your filler tube is not going into the tank. Also, looking at the below picture, it seems the oil tank might be actually going under the battery, which explains why the filler neck is so long and angles the way it is. Edited September 21, 2018 by Italianhorses
Belugawrx Posted September 21, 2018 Author Posted September 21, 2018 57 minutes ago, Italianhorses said: Sure. I was just pointing out that right now your filler tube is not going into the tank. Also, looking at the below picture, it seems the oil tank might be actually going under the battery, which explains why the filler neck is so long and angles the way it is. Gottcha, I agree, and thank you .. the more info the better, I wish I could find a pic of the tank from the other side, ...even the blueprint is from the wrong side, but the flat panel has a cutout top right corner. Please keep posting pics and tips, because I am learning a bunch as I go along And that goes for all of ya,.... this site is only as good as the information it shares Cheers
Nacho Z Posted September 21, 2018 Posted September 21, 2018 5 hours ago, Belugawrx said: Gottcha, I agree, and thank you .. the more info the better, I wish I could find a pic of the tank from the other side, ...even the blueprint is from the wrong side, but the flat panel has a cutout top right corner. Please keep posting pics and tips, because I am learning a bunch as I go along And that goes for all of ya,.... this site is only as good as the information it shares Cheers Shoot, I feel like such a mooch. I'm the one who is always learning here. I feel like I never have much to offer in the way of information. This model is just getting better and better!
afx Posted September 22, 2018 Posted September 22, 2018 (edited) Bruce a mock-up for you with the stock tires on the HRM wheels. There will be little left of the rear rim behind the spokes after it is narrowed to fit the tires. Edited September 22, 2018 by afx
Belugawrx Posted September 23, 2018 Author Posted September 23, 2018 17 hours ago, afx said: Bruce a mock-up for you with the stock tires on the HRM wheels. There will be little left of the rear rim behind the spokes after it is narrowed to fit the tires. Thanks JC Thats what I was afraid of..I have some things coming from modelbuilderswh.com that I'm going to try ..
Tommy124 Posted September 24, 2018 Posted September 24, 2018 (edited) Great progress here! I'll keep following. On 14.9.2018 at 10:58 PM, Tommy124 said: Two years ago, when I got back into the modelling hobby after a break of almost 20 years, I was focused on US car models of all various kinds. And I traded this Italeri kit against a Bullitt Mustang and a Plymouth Superbird. Molto stupido... Btw, I have to admit that each time I visited this WIP thread there has been a feeling of sadness due to my trading of the Italeri kit two years ago. In order to end that melancholy and with a bit of luck, I managed to buy one Italeri Daytona Competizione for a reasonable price on Ebay last week-end! It's still in sealed condition, so let's hope the decals are fine! Edited September 24, 2018 by Tommy124
afx Posted September 24, 2018 Posted September 24, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, Tommy124 said: Great progress here! I'll keep following. Btw, I have to admit that each time I visited this WIP thread there has been a feeling of sadness due to my trading of the Italeri kit two years ago. In order to end that melancholy and with a bit of luck, I managed to buy one Italeri Daytona Competizione for a reasonable price on Ebay last week-end! It's still in sealed condition, so let's hope the decals are fine! Studio27 offers several different decal options. some examples: Edited September 24, 2018 by afx
Tommy124 Posted September 24, 2018 Posted September 24, 2018 4 hours ago, afx said: Studio27 offers several different decal options. Thanks JC, good to know!
Dann Tier Posted September 24, 2018 Posted September 24, 2018 This is really turning into something great!!!
Funkychiken Posted September 25, 2018 Posted September 25, 2018 This build is so good! love it... keep them details coming!
Belugawrx Posted September 26, 2018 Author Posted September 26, 2018 Thanks for visiting everyone,.. can't wait to see your progress Tommy,.. I took Alex' advice (thnx Alex) and took a Mulligan on the oil tank,.. in situ .... Next is getting started on the roll bar and the rest of the interior,... More soon hopefully Cheers
Italianhorses Posted September 26, 2018 Posted September 26, 2018 26 minutes ago, Belugawrx said: Thanks for visiting everyone,.. can't wait to see your progress Tommy,.. I took Alex' advice (thnx Alex) and took a Mulligan on the oil tank,.. in situ .... Next is getting started on the roll bar and the rest of the interior,... More soon hopefully Cheers Way better!
mustang1989 Posted November 6, 2018 Posted November 6, 2018 (edited) WOW!!!! Blown..................away!! Edited November 6, 2018 by mustang1989
randyc Posted April 1, 2019 Posted April 1, 2019 Found this thread on a search. I'm doing a Fujimi Enthusiast Daytona Spider for a paying /trading friend - want to make it as nice and correct as poossible. I've found photos of everything I need on the topside, I think. Found a couple photos of the A frames showing a gold color, but no other underside photos. The Suspension photos showed a car with some years on it - was unable to tell if frame was painted originally. I've tried every google search I can think of. Shame the trunk doesn't open, with that cool toolkit. Need to find a materials to make that better than the paper one on the instructions. So far my questions are: what color is the frame? Black? What color is the bottom of the floor pan? Is it black or raw fiberglass? Some restoration photos I found look like floor pans are fiberglass on the top side (tan). Wondering what the underside is? I'll try to get some in progress photos next time I work on it and start a thread. Probably won't be as detailed as the build here. Have started blocking out the body to smooth out the dips and waves. Have glued up the crossmembers to frame so they'd have the best bond possible. Also adding lead sinker weight in hidden places to give the model some heft. Guy I'm building for does diecasts and I want this to at least feel like what he's used to. But look even better than the diecasts he's used to. Hoping to start some painting this weekend and would llike to have my colors planned out. Otherwise I may have to go blacks on underside just to be safe. Would rather be correct if that's not the correct coloring. Thanks
Tommy124 Posted April 1, 2019 Posted April 1, 2019 @Randy: maybe you will find some answers in the WIP on a German forum which linked below. To me, this is probably the best WIP I have seen and for certain the best Daytona Spyder build. https://www.wettringer-modellbauforum.de/forum/index.php?page=Thread&threadID=33969
randyc Posted April 1, 2019 Posted April 1, 2019 6 minutes ago, Tommy124 said: @Randy: maybe you will find some answers in the WIP on a German forum which linked below. To me, this is probably the best WIP I have seen and for certain the best Daytona Spyder build. https://www.wettringer-modellbauforum.de/forum/index.php?page=Thread&threadID=33969 Thanks - going for a look. I knew the folks here would have an asnwer of some sort.
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