mitchy Posted February 10, 2019 Posted February 10, 2019 You have applied your waterslide decals, but notice that there is some water staining and dried decal glue residue. You want to clearcoat over the whole model, but are worried about this ‘staining’ showing through.... what’s to do? Should you just go over the model carefully with a damp cloth, avoiding the decals? Wash it under running water? Obviously you would wait for the decals to be completely dry and set before any further work...! any creative ideas welcome, thank you.
Dave Van Posted February 10, 2019 Posted February 10, 2019 I always wait about 3-4 days after I finish decaling and then wipe done the model with a wet paper towel folded into a square. This cleans up the extra glue and stains.
Len Woodruff Posted February 10, 2019 Posted February 10, 2019 If it doesn't come off with a damp cloth I use some mild dishwashing soap and my fingers to clean up those areas then a thorough rinsing to get rid of the soap.
shoopdog Posted February 10, 2019 Posted February 10, 2019 I have had no problems going back after about 30 minutes with a dampened lint free cloth and wiping down ( gently) the complete model. I then go back over it with a dry section of the cloth. You might give this a try on one small decal.
Miatatom Posted February 10, 2019 Posted February 10, 2019 Next time, I recommend you get a gallon of distilled water to use to dip the decals in.
Len Woodruff Posted February 10, 2019 Posted February 10, 2019 2 minutes ago, Miatatom said: Next time, I recommend you get a gallon of distilled water to use to dip the decals in. Are you saying it is the water contaminants that is causing the spotting? I thought it was the glue from the decals?
Miatatom Posted February 10, 2019 Posted February 10, 2019 Both. Distilled water is just H2O, no chlorine, fluoride, etc. Cheap too.
JohnU Posted February 10, 2019 Posted February 10, 2019 I totally agree with the distilled water use for decals. If I remember correctly it was recommended in the kit instructions of a model I built as a kid! Don’t remember which one though! Has to do with dissolved minerals in tap water. Been using it ever since without a problem.
mitchy Posted February 10, 2019 Author Posted February 10, 2019 Sounds like some common sense then. I too use distilled water for all my painting and cleaning, which ensures little or no mineral deposits or chemical attack. Thanks for the input
BigTallDad Posted February 10, 2019 Posted February 10, 2019 7 minutes ago, mitchy said: Sounds like some common sense then. I too use distilled water for all my painting and cleaning, which ensures little or no mineral deposits or chemical attack. Thanks for the input I've heard of modelers that use only distilled water for wet-sanding. Also, there was an earlier mention of using paper towels; as an aside, Bounty paper towels are not made using recycled materials...just food for thought. Back to the topic at hand, a soft 1/2 " paintbrush will also help with those "Stubborn stains". A bit of distilled water, a dab of dish soap, and you're good to go.
Miatatom Posted February 11, 2019 Posted February 11, 2019 6 hours ago, BigTallDad said: I've heard of modelers that use only distilled water for wet-sanding. That's all I use.
peteski Posted February 11, 2019 Posted February 11, 2019 There was no mention if any decal setting solution was used. Those chemicals (often alcohol-based) can sometimes mar the paint surface and it will not wash off. But as far as the decal itself goes, it is all water-soluble, so any glue residue should come off with just more water. I also noticed that the paint onto which the decal was applied does not seem to be glossy, but more like satin finish. Water-slide decals should ideally be applied to glossy paint surface.
mitchy Posted February 11, 2019 Author Posted February 11, 2019 Hi Petesky you ard right, the paint is not gloss, but I have luckily escaped without any silvering. No decal serting solution applied, just distilled water. Indeed, a good moist wipe has left the surface ready for clear coats. Thank you all for your input
espo Posted February 13, 2019 Posted February 13, 2019 I have done minor clean up with a damp Q tip and it can be done right after decaling.
Snake45 Posted February 13, 2019 Posted February 13, 2019 On 2/10/2019 at 10:56 PM, peteski said: There was no mention if any decal setting solution was used. Those chemicals (often alcohol-based) can sometimes mar the paint surface and it will not wash off. But as far as the decal itself goes, it is all water-soluble, so any glue residue should come off with just more water. I also noticed that the paint onto which the decal was applied does not seem to be glossy, but more like satin finish. Water-slide decals should ideally be applied to glossy paint surface. If you use decal setting solution, DO take the time to wash the model before clearcoating. Learned this lesson the hard way--had solution runs and drips turn brown on a few model airplanes after ten years or so. If it smells like vinegar, clean it off after the decals are dry!
Tommy124 Posted February 14, 2019 Posted February 14, 2019 16 hours ago, Snake45 said: If you use decal setting solution, DO take the time to wash the model before clearcoating. Learned this lesson the hard way--had solution runs and drips turn brown on a few model airplanes after ten years or so. If it smells like vinegar, clean it off after the decals are dry! Good to know, thanks for the input!
David G. Posted May 7, 2022 Posted May 7, 2022 I'm currently working with a model that has some large decals and I'm planning to clear coat it so I Google searched "cleaning model car with applied decals" and this came up. This is very useful information and I'm glad I found it. David G.
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