Italeri - Ferrari 275 GTS (Spyder N.A.R.T.)

[Eric Macleod]

This is one of the most drop dead fabulous builds I have seen. Great work on a most worthy subject. 

[Exotics_Builder]

Nice job on the hood and hinging.  I assume you will address the ejector pin marks as you move ahead.

[keyser]

Nah, he should leave them. Kind of a ying/yang thing after the tool kit and the lines. 

First time you commented like that, I figured you were kidding. Second time, well, what can we say? ?

[89AKurt]

On 2/5/2020 at 7:50 AM, Rich Chernosky said:

Brilliant solution Kurt. Looks better and functions better.  Mine broke off more than once so I don't open the hood much. Besides, my engine isn't anywhere near as nice as yours.

Thank you.  Aw shucks, that's one reason I decided to ditch the plastic part.

On 2/5/2020 at 8:00 AM, Belugawrx said:

Hood hinge looks great .. nice work around for the horn placement?

Horn broke off, putting body on chassis numerous times, may modify placement.

On 2/5/2020 at 11:28 AM, curt raitz said:

Hi Kurt, I'm really enjoying this build!

Just been following with slack-jaw.

Ya gonna have it done by Desert Scale Classic?

Hope to see ya then.

 

Hey Curt, thanks for leaving a comment.  I know you are into Ferraris too!  That's the plan.

On 2/5/2020 at 12:18 PM, Twokidsnosleep said:

God look at you go!!!

Man I had no idea how far you were into this build, fantastico!

Going to loop back and have a good read of everything, impressive modelling here

? Oh man, hope He didn't hear me swearing like a truck with road rage.   Thank you very much.

On 2/5/2020 at 1:42 PM, Dann Tier said:

.....ya, what he said!!, lol....Unbelievable!!!

Thanks for always encouraging me.

18 hours ago, dino246gt said:

Man that looks amazing! Great modeling skills taking that kit to another level, I love it!

Thanks very much!  Think the subject and rare kit deserve special treatment.

[89AKurt]

8 hours ago, Eric Macleod said:

This is one of the most drop dead fabulous builds I have seen. Great work on a most worthy subject. 

Oh wow, more comments. ?  Thanks very much, wait 'til you see "drop dead" for the final touch.

6 hours ago, Exotics_Builder said:

Nice job on the hood and hinging.  I assume you will address the ejector pin marks as you move ahead.

Two were puttied before, hared to tell, but yes.

5 hours ago, keyser said:

Nah, he should leave them. Kind of a ying/yang thing after the tool kit and the lines. 

First time you commented like that, I figured you were kidding. Second time, well, what can we say? ?

? Some people have special obsessions.  This kit had a few.

Thought of something else to prolong finishing, made a working hood latch.  I'm having tight tolerances which is keeping the hood from closing snugly, thought of using magnets, but thought this might work.  Used coffee can steel, paper clip, steel tube, guitar string, and steel from salvaged electronic device that went bad.

I drew the basic concept, but it was trial and error and remaking parts.  Needed to fit under the dash was the first requirement.  There is slop with the paper clip wire in the tube, then the "L" is loose in the folded over steel arm.  Have an "L" wire for the hinge pivot, so it can be taken out for multiple adjusting.  Started with a coil spring, just too much effort to push, so used a guitar string wire.  The white plastic rectangle will be painted like a fuse box, will wire each fuse made from clear stretched sprue, and have a teeny tiny fuse clamp added to the tool bag. ?

Added the latch to the hood.   Used the scraper tool to make the recess, sure glad I got a set!  Now the question, looking at pictures, appears the hood inside was painted black, but really want to add cigarette foil for insulation, which would cover all these not-realistic parts.

Made a video, but need sleep...... ?

[beeRS]

Amazing latch! So, you press on the fuse box to release the catch?

[Exotics_Builder]

7 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

Two were puttied before, hared to tell, but yes

Those are a bane on a lot of models.  You are doing a GSL quality level model.  The only reason I mentioned this is that, at times, one can get so fixated at correcting something or adding a detail that they accidentally miss something like this.  In the last photo of the hood latches I can see that you can still remove the hood. 
 

Keep up the great work.  I have not been inspired to do that amount of detail to a model for several years.  You, and Dann Tier are inspiring to think about going at that again.

[89AKurt]

6 hours ago, beeRS said:

Amazing latch! So, you press on the fuse box to release the catch?

Just above it, too much twist in the arm on the box itself.

25 minutes ago, Exotics_Builder said:

Those are a bane on a lot of models.  You are doing a GSL quality level model.  The only reason I mentioned this is that, at times, one can get so fixated at correcting something or adding a detail that they accidentally miss something like this.  In the last photo of the hood latches I can see that you can still remove the hood. 
 

Keep up the great work.  I have not been inspired to do that amount of detail to a model for several years.  You, and Dann Tier are inspiring to think about going at that again.

Spillchick stepped in last night, HARD to tell. ?  This plastic is also silverized, so when I remove anything, there is a shadow of the shape, things pop out after painting, so that is more of a challenge.  Thanks for saying that too about GSL level, best in the world show up and kick you-know-what, feel luck to get anything.  This forum is great for inspiration!

Today I hope to get enough done, that it will look complete, but without bumpers, spinners, mirror.  Sent off parts to get chromed yesterday.

 

Edited February 8, 2020 by 89AKurt
added picture

[Exotics_Builder]

1 hour ago, 89AKurt said:

This plastic is also silverized, so when I remove anything, there is a shadow of the shape, things pop out after painting, so that is more of a challenge

I know.  I have this kit unbuilt in the stash as well as the coupe.  One trick I learned that I have yet to try on ghosting is to brush liquid styrene glue over the area.  

[89AKurt]

A reason I really don't like shiny perfect paint (besides never being able to like some people), seems to be a magnet for every sharp object on the bench, and glue. ?  Managed to save this and another spot.

Got the final details done, more like redid several things to reduce conflict fitment.  Think it's ready to button up.

Got the doors and trunk hinges done.  I described the fusee chain way back, glad it worked the first time it was all glued in with superglue.

Glued the headlights in, before painting the inside flat black.

I'm getting stoked!

Just today I was looking one more time to see where the trunk script goes, and noticed this particular car also has the prancing horse above it, never seen that before.  But that car has black interior, so now what, do what I like and not worry about exact accuracy?  You bet!  Now I see the side window needs to be curved, yes I added that today.

[Exotics_Builder]

Each of these cars were essentially hand built.  Unless you are replicating a specific chassis number, I'd say do what is pleasing to you.  What you have so far done is fantastic

[89AKurt]

2 hours ago, Exotics_Builder said:

Each of these cars were essentially hand built.  Unless you are replicating a specific chassis number, I'd say do what is pleasing to you.  What you have so far done is fantastic

That's so true, and over time things change, such as the wheels.  Thank you.

Glued on door handles, taillights, and one of the tiny teardrop lights on the fender, but that looks huge after sticking on, not happy with that.

Seatbelts were culled from 3 sources, Detail Master buckles, Studio 27 belt material, and one photo-etch part from the Modelers set.  Finally got to install the fabulous Hobby Design fire extinguisher.  Of course the seats are glued in too!

[Eric Macleod]

Wow.  Just wow. 

[Belugawrx]

This is looking really good Kurt !

You managed to cram that engine bay full of detail ?

[afx]

I really like the interior color.

[89AKurt]

2 hours ago, Eric Macleod said:

Wow.  Just wow. 

? That's what I say when I look at the time, when my eyes are crossed.

1 hour ago, Belugawrx said:

This is looking really good Kurt !

You managed to cram that engine bay full of detail ?

Thank you!  It was a challenge picking what to duplicate, there is so much more, but there is a limit.

24 minutes ago, afx said:

I really like the interior color.

Thanks!  I custom mixed that in a little bottle, for painting Rommel's Rod, used it up on this project.  When I was a kid, Pactra was another brand, when I discovered that at a hobby shop, all the Africa Korps models were painted this color.

[keyser]

Showrods, baby, all day. I've got a RR witha DML 1/35 articulated track project that'll never get done, but cool. 

Fun to have exotics, annuals and showrods in the mix. LOL. Blasphemy I know. 

[ATHU]

10 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

Looks freaking awesome Kurt. Superb work!!

[89AKurt]

7 hours ago, keyser said:

Showrods, baby, all day. I've got a RR witha DML 1/35 articulated track project that'll never get done, but cool. 

Fun to have exotics, annuals and showrods in the mix. LOL. Blasphemy I know. 

I've seen some awesome RR that are weathered, skeletons with tattered uniforms, and of course a different track set.  Some people need to branch out to other subjects, such a variety out in the world, why stick with just one thing?

6 hours ago, ATHU said:

Looks freaking awesome Kurt. Superb work!!

Thank you very much! ?

The trafficator lights were driving me nuts.  Italeri did a good job making really tiny lenses, but painting them wrecks the detail, and when put on they looked like ****.  They have chrome trim, but that would really test the limits for paint or BMF.  So I used this sticker, and a new #11 blade.

The special N.A.R.T. badge was brass porcelain cloisonné, so I used a gold sticker to put that on.  (close-up pictures sure make it look rough)

Hobby Design emblem for the front.  Getting the turn signals in sure was a challenge!

Crazy Modeler makes a nice stick-on photo-etch (or some other process, don't know) emblem set, so that's on the trunk.  Replicas & Miniature of MD Wizzard-of-Os put on the taillights.

Screwed up the hood. ?  Long story....

The windshield was a pain, of course it was from day one with the broken frame that required repair.  Managed to Bare Metal foil, and pen for the rubber line for the trim, without breaking it.  I had added a plastic strip along the bottom, which really helped hold it in place.  I risked using superglue at the corners to get it stuck in place, then ran Elmers clear glue along the bottom to help.  Windshield wipers are really nice, they fit the curve of the windshield, when I glued on they seemed to be perfect, but now need tweaking. ?
Rest of the parts laid out, getting close!

Installed the trunk carpeting, used lots of Tacky glue.  I had dislodged the magnet and lost it, lucky to have some still.  Gas filler is now in.  Just need to figure out the lid finish, will look for craft paper at Hobby Lobby tomorrow.  You can see how I glued in the fusee chain.

Last scratch-built parts will be the headlight covers, unless I make a radar detector. ?

Need to tweak the Fujimi wheels to fit the axles.  I had removed the front license plate protuberance, but now thinking of adding one of my MOVE OVER plates.  Also considering a photo-etch steering wheel.

[peteski]

9 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

?

Thanks!  I custom mixed that in a little bottle, for painting Rommel's Rod, used it up on this project.  When I was a kid, Pactra was another brand, when I discovered that at a hobby shop, all the Africa Korps models were painted this color.

Sure looks like German Mustard Yellow to me.

BTW, I still have some Pactra paints: bottle and a spray can.

[89AKurt]

Got one headlight cover done!  Wish I could go thinner on the frame, but the BMF barely sticks on as it is.  The mirror is part of a scavenged camera LCD screen back, very thin and just like a mirror, "glued" in with black paint.  I almost get blinded working on all this shiny stuff. ?  Added snaps to the cover, using a .5mm mechanical pencil and aluminum tape.  Got the wheels on! ?  Carefully drilled a little bigger hole.  Need to evaluate the offset, if there needs to be a spacer so they don't look so old fashioned.

[peteski]

31 minutes ago, 89AKurt said:

Got one headlight cover done!  Wish I could go thinner on the frame, but the BMF barely sticks on as it is.  The mirror is part of a scavenged camera LCD screen back, very thin and just like a mirror, "glued" in with black paint.  I almost get blinded working on all this shiny stuff. ?  Added snaps to the cover, using a .5mm mechanical pencil and aluminum tape.  Got the wheels on! ?  Carefully drilled a little bigger hole.  Need to evaluate the offset, if there needs to be a spacer so they don't look so old fashioned.

 

Beautiful!

If you don't mind me saying it, I'm not too crazy about the kit's windshield wipers (well at least the right side one visible in this photo).  It looks odd, and not very realistic the way the blade is positioned on the arm.  Here is a photo from your initial post on this thread.

There is a huge difference in appearance of the 1:1 scale wiper and the kit's wiper.  If I was building this model I would either use photoetched wipers, or scratchbuild ones that look better than the kit's. You have made so many improvements to this kit (and scratchbuild lots of parts) -  what's couple more of very visible parts?

 

And on an unrelated note, I can't help but smile to see one of my models in the background on your workbench (the blue/white '57 Chevy). 

[89AKurt]

10 hours ago, peteski said:

Beautiful!

If you don't mind me saying it, I'm not too crazy about the kit's windshield wipers (well at least the right side one visible in this photo).  It looks odd, and not very realistic the way the blade is positioned on the arm.  Here is a photo from your initial post on this thread.

[...]

There is a huge difference in appearance of the 1:1 scale wiper and the kit's wiper.  If I was building this model I would either use photoetched wipers, or scratchbuild ones that look better than the kit's. You have made so many improvements to this kit (and scratchbuild lots of parts) -  what's couple more of very visible parts?

 

And on an unrelated note, I can't help but smile to see one of my models in the background on your workbench (the blue/white '57 Chevy). 

I've tried p-e wipers before, another opportunity to be driven nuts.  At least they weren't molded on the body.  Yes they are chunky and not exact.  I have a few weeks to mull it over, since the bumpers are across the country.

Cool to know about the '57.  I owned this wagon last century, have a very crude resin body to build someday.

[peteski]

5 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

I've tried p-e wipers before, another opportunity to be driven nuts.  At least they weren't molded on the body.  Yes they are chunky and not exact.  I have a few weeks to mull it over, since the bumpers are across the country.

Cool to know about the '57.  I owned this wagon last century, have a very crude resin body to build someday.

That was a nice wagon!  My BelAir has a similar color combo (I used Boyd's Pacific Blue and White).

I was honored when El (BMF owner) proposed to use my model in his advertising.  It is Gunze Sangyo 1:32 scale model.  Here is a better photo.

Actually this is a good segway to the subject of more realistic wipers.  This model had no wipers at all, so I made my own.

I'm a bit of a hoarder and I save lots of throw-away stuff.  When I use LEDs in my projects (the old fashion 3mm and 5mm LEDs with leads), I save the cutoff leads.  They have square cross section, which varies between 0.015" and 0.021".  Perfect for making wipers.  Here, I bent the end of one lead 90 degrees to create a wiper shaft, then blobbed some solder onto that end. Then using a file I shaped it to look like the thicker end of the wiper arm. Solder is soft and easy to file. Then I figured out the arm's length and I bent it again on the other end to attach the wiper blade.  Again, using the square LED lead I  made a wiper blade and soldered it to the arm.  Then I airbrushed it silver and brush painted the rubber part of the blade.  This one was really basic, but it looks quite realistic.

I made a bit more complex wipers for my 1:24 Peterbilt wrecker.  Again using the same materials, but this time the wiper blade is made of 3 pieces. You can clearly see that in this photo (and again, this looks so much better than the clunky plastic kit wipers, or too-thin photoetched wipers).

 

[89AKurt]

1 hour ago, peteski said:

[...]

Actually this is a good segway to the subject of more realistic wipers.  This model had no wipers at all, so I made my own.

[...]

Since you mentioned photo-etch, I dug out the Detail Master wipers to take a look.  Obviously the street rod version is way too basic.  Trouble with the super fine version is too long, with the Z bent arms.  I vaguely recall trying to make one, what a royal PITA making those, I tossed the one attempt.  If anything, I could see using p-e frame edge to put between the base and blade.  Otherwise, these are parts that Italeri did well on.