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MPC 1968 Dodge Coronet R/T


StevenGuthmiller

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You nailed that Steve....you are inspiring me to build one but as I know it's an old kit and I can't just go to my local HL to get it.  I did bit of a search to find a '68 Coronet RTto no avail. If anyone see's one please let me know.  A very good friend of my wife back in the day owned a black one (bought new). His Dad owned the most famous Speed Shop in New Orleans and of course he had access to all the good stuff. If I remember he put Cragers on it. 

 

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5 hours ago, David G. said:

Excellent work on the stripes!

Somehow, it seems like painting them would be a little easier than trying to wrangle a set of large decals into place.

David G.

I just plain hate decals anyway!

Plus, with the paint I'm using, I don't think I'd want to spray any clear over a decal.

 

I really like how the stripes turned out on my '68 Olds, so I had to do it on this one as well.

A little tougher this time, but so far, so good.

 

 

 

 

Steve

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3 hours ago, TooOld said:

Those first stripes look sharp !  I just recently tried the Tamiya tape and was surprised how well it works , I didn't spray any clear before the color and still had no bleed under the edges .

I only sprayed a coat of clear prior to the stripes, just to help protect the paint from any damage while masking or unmasking.

I'll do the same now by spraying another light clear coat to protect the stripes from any damage while I work on the next ones.

I love the way that Duplicolor black primer sprays and looks, but it can get scuffed or scratched very easily, so if it's going to be a finished part of the model, I like to get some clear over it immediately.

 

I've never used clear to protect from bleed under yet.

I've been able to rely on Tamiya tape.

 

 

 

 

Steve

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4 hours ago, TooOld said:

That black primer does look great !  The spacing is something nobody will ever notice unless you tell them , even then I doubt they would see what you see .

You know, the strangest part is that the spacing and positioning issues appear to be magnified in the photos that I have taken. 
When I look at it in person, it looks pretty good.

 

 

 

Steve

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59 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

You know, the strangest part is that the spacing and positioning issues appear to be magnified in the photos that I have taken. 
When I look at it in person, it looks pretty good.

 

 

 

Steve

I feel that once you paint the vinyl top , the minor spacing of the stripes will disappear . Certainly , the presence of the (necessary) masking tape on the roof sends the eyes in different directions .

Keep on keepin' on !

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12 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

OK Steven, how did you mask it to get those narrow stripes, you didn't show us Buddy😀

Well, it might not be easy to explain, but I'll try.

 

I started by laying a piece of tape all the way across for what would be the farthest side of the pin stripe.

I could have measured this, but it was close enough to the wide stripe to eye ball it.

Then I laid the next piece of tape along what would be the inside edge of the pin stripe, using the other piece of tape, and the edge of the wide stripe, (which was visible through the tape) as a guide to get it as straight as I could.

 

I'm sure that some might think that I went about these stripes strangely, and I guess the way that I did it might have contributed to it not coming out exactly as I would have wanted, but there was a method to my madness.

Because of the way that I approached them, I didn't have to cut and try to handle and keep straight long and extremely thin pieces of tape.

Only the piece of tape used between the two wide stripes needed to be cut thin, (in retrospect, it could have been a little thinner) and even that piece was difficult to wrangle and keep straight.

I hate to think of trying to cut and lay out pieces of tape thin enough to separate the wide and thin stripes.

 

This way, the rest of the pieces of tape were 6mm Tamiya tape that I just had to cut a clean edge on.

 

 

 

 

Steve

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2 hours ago, 250 Testa Rossa said:

What did you use to cut the tape for the stripes? They look good!

 

Very simply, with a steel ruler and a sharp #11 Exacto blade.

If you read the above post, you'll see that I didn't have to cut much for extremely thin pieces.

I worked it so that most of the tape cutting was just to clean up the edges.

Only the piece that separated the wide stripes had to be measured and cut precisely.

 

 

 

Steve

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The more that I look at these stripes in a "normal" 3/4 type view, rather than dead on, the more that I feel like I'm okay with them.

I think they're good enough.

 

I'm going to suck it up, add a couple more clear coats, and move on to the polishing stage.

 

 

I am also happy with the affect that scribing the door and trunk lid lines more deeply has had on darkening the panel lines.

From now on, I'm going to rely on this method rather than using paint to darken them.

I think it looks more realistic.

 

image.jpeg.cfb0750a542a218fcd61b7ce02eaaa80.jpeg

image.jpeg.0d077d00f468a22b680c4fafba84fd60.jpeg

image.jpeg.e767a808bbdf64b71894a9f57c1d0b26.jpeg

image.jpeg.da5b40377e0b4b684631b30e3d5031d4.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
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8 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Well, it might not be easy to explain, but I'll try.

 

I started by laying a piece of tape all the way across for what would be the farthest side of the pin stripe.

I could have measured this, but it was close enough to the wide stripe to eye ball it.

Then I laid the next piece of tape along what would be the inside edge of the pin stripe, using the other piece of tape, and the edge of the wide stripe, (which was visible through the tape) as a guide to get it as straight as I could.

 

I'm sure that some might think that I went about these stripes strangely, and I guess the way that I did it might have contributed to it not coming out exactly as I would have wanted, but there was a method to my madness.

Because of the way that I approached them, I didn't have to cut and try to handle and keep straight long and extremely thin pieces of tape.

Only the piece of tape used between the two wide stripes needed to be cut thin, (in retrospect, it could have been a little thinner) and even that piece was difficult to wrangle and keep straight.

I hate to think of trying to cut and lay out pieces of tape thin enough to separate the wide and thin stripes.

 

This way, the rest of the pieces of tape were 6mm Tamiya tape that I just had to cut a clean edge on.

 

 

 

 

Steve

Hey thanks Steve for answering my question.   Very clean lines. I have one roll of Tamiya tape and it just doesn't see to stick well enough to me for crisp lines. I just started a '62 Catalina and that 4 tone seat pattern is gonna be a bear!!

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1 hour ago, TransAmMike said:

 

Hey thanks Steve for answering my question.   Very clean lines. I have one roll of Tamiya tape and it just doesn't see to stick well enough to me for crisp lines. I just started a '62 Catalina and that 4 tone seat pattern is gonna be a bear!!

Tamiya tape is naturally lower tack than something like regular masking tape, but it's much more flexible and does a much better job than masking tape at leaving a super clean edge.

Just make sure to burnish down the edges pretty well, and shoot the first couple of coats of paint lightly and you should be very happy.

 

Remember, I used Tamiya tape on this little gem. :D

 

image.jpeg.e0dcf48cb66d2e02b2f5ee022c438dd4.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
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1 hour ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Tamiya tape is naturally lower tack than something like regular masking tape, but it's much more flexible and does a much better job than masking tape at leaving a super clean edge.

Just make sure to burnish down the edges pretty well, and shoot the first couple of coats of paint lightly and you should be very happy.

 

Remember, I used Tamiya tape on this little gem. :D

 

image.jpeg.e0dcf48cb66d2e02b2f5ee022c438dd4.jpeg

Now thats what I'm talking about Steven.  If I can get it almost that good I'll be happy😀

 

 

 

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