My first attempt at BMF

[SCRWDRVR]

I made my first attempt at using BMF and used it under paint. For my first try I did the emblems on my 69 AMX. What do you think for my first try?

 

[GeeBee]

Very nice work 

[BlackSheep214]

Very nice work! I couldn't do that using BMF myself. Especially the lettering and circle trim.

[Ramfins59]

Nice job for your first try.  It'll get better, and easier, each time you do it even though it is a bit time consuming.

[Snake45]

Not bad at all, especially for your first try. Well done and model on! 

[SCRWDRVR]

Thanks Guys, I learned a lot on my first shot at it and have what I think will be my technique doing it...

[iamsuperdan]

I think it turned out pretty good!

I've always had a hard time with BMF. Definitely something I need practice with.

Although, the Molotow chrome pens have somewhat negated by need for BMF.

 

 

[SCRWDRVR]

1 minute ago, iamsuperdan said:

I think it turned out pretty good!

I've always had a hard time with BMF. Definitely something I need practice with.

Although, the Molotow chrome pens have somewhat negated by need for BMF.

 

 

I use the Molotow pens a lot also but was never happy with the out come doing emblems and some trim. I would never have gotten this good of a finish with a Molotow pen...

[cobraman]

I hate doing BMF but I don't believe anything looks better IMO.

[tbill]

Looks great ! amazingly enough a few years ago I did that kit in that same color , haha.

[TonyK]

I think it looks great. You're off to a good start as I never got the hang of it. Tried it quite a few times with years in between and still couldn't do it so kudos to you!

[SCRWDRVR]

Thanks all, I think I will definetly be using it a lot more

 

23 minutes ago, tbill said:

Looks great ! amazingly enough a few years ago I did that kit in that same color , haha.

Thanks, I picked that color because I had a 1:1 many years ago that was what I called olive green and was very similar to this color... It is a good color for the car though..

[Ctmodeler]

2 hours ago, SCRWDRVR said:

I made my first attempt at using BMF and used it under paint. For my first try I did the emblems on my 69 AMX. What do you think for my first try?

 

So how exactly do you get the paint off the emblems after painting ? Surprised it doesn't mess up the paint around the emblems

[plastic trucker]

Great job, My first attempt was on the International Lonestar and that was a disaster.

[SCRWDRVR]

33 minutes ago, Ctmodeler said:

So how exactly do you get the paint off the emblems after painting ? Surprised it doesn't mess up the paint around the emblems

I used 2 methods to see which I liked better, first I used a toothpick soaked in lacquer thinner which worked pretty good until the painted started getting hard then it started to kind off peel the paint rather than take it off so I changed up to using a pointed craft cotton swap with lacquer thinner on it to wipe the paint off (very lightly) and that worked really well I thought and will probably be how I do it from now on....

 

Thanks for all the encouragement and comments guys...

[Rocking Rodney Rat]

3 hours ago, cobraman said:

I hate doing BMF but I don't believe anything looks better IMO.

X 2 -RRR

[StevenGuthmiller]

Looks pretty good to me!

In my opinion, this is really the only way to do small scripts and badges if you want them to look really nice.

With many kits, especially vintage kits, there is not, and probably never will be, the option of using PE scripts and there's only so much you can do with paint, especially with the very small and delicate scripts.

 

3 hours ago, SCRWDRVR said:

I used 2 methods to see which I liked better, first I used a toothpick soaked in lacquer thinner which worked pretty good until the painted started getting hard then it started to kind off peel the paint rather than take it off so I changed up to using a pointed craft cotton swap with lacquer thinner on it to wipe the paint off (very lightly) and that worked really well I thought and will probably be how I do it from now on....

I use both methods on the same script with great results.

I use the conical swabs first.

This loosens the paint and takes it off of the high points.

Then I come in with the sharpened tooth pick dipped in lacquer thinner to clean up the edges of the already loosened paint.

This step will give you more "relief" around the perimeter of the script making it look more like it's sitting on top of the surface rather than embedded in the paint.

 

The secret is to be very stingy with the lacquer thinner to prevent any "bleed" onto the other body surfaces.

Take your time and repeat if necessary and you'll get great looking scripts every time.

 

Also, the less paint that you need to remove from the script the better, so applying the foil just before the final color coat and removing it right after, will be the easiest approach requiring a lot less effort than trying to remove multiple coats of primer and paint.

 

Once you get the hang of it, it's relatively easy to get nearly perfect results, even on the faintest and tiniest scripts.

 

My latest attempt on the old AMT 1964 Pontiac Grand Prix had me a bit worried because it's so faint and small, but with caution it went just as well as any other script that I've attempted regardless of size.

 

Another good tip is to detail any scripts containing color with a small brush after cleaning the paint off initially and then repeating the same technique for the added color.

I then spray my clear coats on after this process to seal and protect the scripts and badges.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

[SCRWDRVR]

39 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Looks pretty good to me!

In my opinion, this is really the only way to do small scripts and badges if you want them to look really nice.

With many kits, especially vintage kits, there is not, and probably never will be, the option of using PE scripts and there's only so much you can do with paint, especially with the very small and delicate scripts.

 

I use both methods on the same script with great results.

I use the conical swabs first.

This loosens the paint and takes it off of the high points.

Then I come in with the sharpened tooth pick dipped in lacquer thinner to clean up the edges of the already loosened paint.

This step will give you more "relief" around the perimeter of the script making it look more like it's sitting on top of the surface rather than embedded in the paint.

 

The secret is to be very stingy with the lacquer thinner to prevent any "bleed" onto the other body surfaces.

Take your time and repeat if necessary and you'll get great looking scripts every time.

 

Also, the less paint that you need to remove from the script the better, so applying the foil just before the final color coat and removing it right after, will be the easiest approach requiring a lot less effort than trying to remove multiple coats of primer and paint.

 

Once you get the hang of it, it's relatively easy to get nearly perfect results, even on the faintest and tiniest scripts.

 

My latest attempt on the old AMT 1964 Pontiac Grand Prix had me a bit worried because it's so faint and small, but with caution it went just as well as any other script that I've attempted regardless of size.

 

Another good tip is to detail any scripts containing color with a small brush after cleaning the paint off initially and then repeating the same technique for the added color.

I then spray my clear coats on after this process to seal and protect the scripts and badges.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

It was definitely easier than I thought it would be and I think with some practice I can get them pretty good, And I want to thank you Steve for all the info you have shared with me on this and other detail work you have made a huge difference in my knowledge and have been a huge part of helping me step up my builds..... Thank you

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, SCRWDRVR said:

It was definitely easier than I thought it would be and I think with some practice I can get them pretty good, And I want to thank you Steve for all the info you have shared with me on this and other detail work you have made a huge difference in my knowledge and have been a huge part of helping me step up my builds..... Thank you

I am always more than happy to help in any way that I can.

Good methods should be shared with every hobbyist.

And believe me, these techniques are not my own.

Nearly everything I have learned in my modeling career has been learned from someone else.

My job is just to pass them along to anybody who wishes to know them.

 

 

 

 

Steve

[Khils]

8 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

My job is just to pass them along to anybody who wishes to know them.

Genuine "Good hearted" mentor with an amazing talent!    He has been there several times for me.....and I am honored & humbled to call him my friend!  

 

Kevin

[SCRWDRVR]

12 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I am always more than happy to help in any way that I can.

Good methods should be shared with every hobbyist.

And believe me, these techniques are not my own.

Nearly everything I have learned in my modeling career has been learned from someone else.

My job is just to pass them along to anybody who wishes to know them.

 

 

 

 

Steve

Well your doing a great job ??
 

 

12 hours ago, Khils said:

Genuine "Good hearted" mentor with an amazing talent!    He has been there several times for me.....and I am honored & humbled to call him my friend!  

 

Kevin

Amen preach on brother Kevin....