Bullybeef Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 @Dennis Lacy that’s some mighty fine detail on that engine!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 17 hours ago, krassandbernie said: I think you've out Boyd-ed the Tim here Dennis! I agree, hands down! Onward with all these great builds! TIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CabDriver Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 That wiring job is incredible! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Karson Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 My hat's off to ADL and his exciting finishing touches that he has added to his @tim boyd Tribute '29A Closed Cab Pickup build! The pictures do not do the work @Dennis Lacy put into these details justice! The scratch-made fuel block is sheer genius! The wiring looms are a whole 'nother story! They were not designed for the gage wire he used and yet they look like they were born there!! Excellent work, Brother!!! -KK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Karson Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 (edited) '29 Donor List Revell '29 Ford Pickup Kit 2085 Custom Rod 3'n1 Parts #: 51 Fenders 53 Pickup Bed 54 Tailgate 95 Cab Revell '29 Ford Roadster Kit 4322 Model A Roadster 2'n1 Parts #: 77 Fame/Chassis Revell '32 Ford Sedan Kit 85-2062 Street Rod Parts #: 28 Dropped Tube Front Axle 77 Fame-Chassis Marked for De-Construction 77 Fame-Chassis Marked for De-Construction & 51 Fenders Marked for De-Construction 77 Fame-Chassis Marked for De-Construction & 51 Fenders Marked for De-Construction 77 Fame-Chassis Marked for De-Construction & 51 Fenders Marked for De-Construction 77 Fame-Chassis Marked for De-Construction & 51 Fenders Marked for De-Construction Each BLACK mark and parts marked OUT & REMOVE are then scribed with the actual "cut line". Cutting decisions are made on a "Leave" the line and "Take" the line basis. Always taking into consideration the width of the knife/saw blade; the cut line may be be inside the cut line or outside of the cut line. Deciding to leave or take the line depends on how much material is to be removed or cut off. @Rocking Rodney Rat will say, "I measured it once and cut it twice and it's still too short!" Measure twice and cut once! Cut long and file or sand to length has always worked in craftmanship and modeling. It's always easier to take a little more off that to have to add a little back on! (Or is it?) -KK Edited February 2, 2021 by Kit Karson Add a picture... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocking Rodney Rat Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 Nice work, KK. Melding the old with the new....rev up the Sawzall!!!! -RRR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Lacy Posted February 3, 2021 Author Share Posted February 3, 2021 @Kit Karson Very methodical as usual! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Karson Posted February 3, 2021 Share Posted February 3, 2021 (edited) Time to start cutting! Removed the coil-over spreader bar... Cut off the solid axle mounts... on both sides of the frame... Trim with a #11 blade... Easy enough!?. Now to tie the frame and fenders together so as to secure them enough to scribe the cut-lines... Used a strip of tape to hold the back together... and the front end, too... Note where the frame crosses over the blacked out marks... Scribe in the blacked out areas where the cut-lines are going to show where material will be removed... Cut away the blacked out area from the inner rail... on both sides, not cutting all the way through with the saw... Finish trimming with a #11 blade... on both sides... Here where the decision to "Leave" the line or "Take" the line... in this case removing everything between the scribed cut-lines, "Leave" the line! Cutting out the relief in the back valance... again, "Leave" the line... Cut up to the scribed line, but not passed it... on both sides... Use a #11 blade to slice between the cut-lines... With a little cleaning; enough to knock the burrs off... the '29 Roadster Frame and the '29 Pickup Fenders will press/snap together! 77 Frame-Chassis & 51 Fenders fit together like they were made for each other! Neat? Huh? You can imagine how excited I was when I first noticed the commonality between these two kit parts!! '29 Roadster (77) Frame-Chassis under the '29 Pickup (51) Fenders Nice tight fit, because enough material was left in the cut-out areas... that with a little filing and sanding they come together as planned! Notice how the '29 Roadster kit Z'd frame cleans up... where @Dennis Lacy and @Rocking Rodney Rat had to manufacture their Z'd frames, easier? Yup! -KK Edited February 5, 2021 by Kit Karson delete a picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted February 3, 2021 Share Posted February 3, 2021 Kit - great tutorial and step by step photography! That Revell '29a Roadster Z'ed Model A frame is a mini-jewel in itself; kudos to you for building awareness with your project and your coverage here. Jumping ahead now: for anyone building the Revelll'29A Roadster Z'ed frame, for added authenticity don't forget to cut away the front shock mounts from the shocks and glue the mounts m to the frame before painting; same with the split radius rod bracket/mounts and gluing them to the frame side rails before painting. Recently took pictures of this (though not to the level of detail Kit shows above); I'll try to find them and post them here. Can't wait to see Kit's - and the others in this thread - as construction continues! TIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 Here are a few images illustrating the suggestion in the post directly above about the radius rod brackets and shock mounts being cut apart from their molded assemblies and mounted to the frame, prior to painting.... And here's the above frame, with the brackets molded in place and painted.....never mind the other frame in the image (anybody know what it is....???) TB 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Lacy Posted February 4, 2021 Author Share Posted February 4, 2021 21 minutes ago, tim boyd said: Here are a few images illustrating the suggestion in the post directly above about the radius rod brackets and shock mounts being cut apart from their molded assemblies and mounted to the frame, prior to painting.... And here's the above frame, with the brackets molded in place and painted.....never mind the other frame in the image (anybody know what it is....???) TB That’s the way to go. Does a lot to make it look more like a scale vehicle and less like a toy. And that other frame looks to certainly be from the Uncertain T 😁 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Karson Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 21 hours ago, tim boyd said: Kit - great tutorial and step by step photography! That Revell '29a Roadster Z'ed Model A frame is a mini-jewel in itself; kudos to you for building awareness with your project and your coverage here. Jumping ahead now: for anyone building the Revelll'29A Roadster Z'ed frame, for added authenticity don't forget to cut away the front shock mounts from the shocks and glue the mounts m to the frame before painting; same with the split radius rod bracket/mounts and gluing them to the frame side rails before painting. Recently took pictures of this (though not to the level of detail Kit shows above); I'll try to find them and post them here. Can't wait to see Kit's - and the others in this thread - as construction continues! TIM And, be aware of misleading instructions: Attaching the coil-over spring (Part #42) to the tip of the exhaust pipe is NOT how it works! -KK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 10 hours ago, Dennis Lacy said: And that other frame looks to certainly be from the Uncertain T 😁 Yes, you are certainly sure where it uncertainly came from (always room for some humor in this hobby, right?) :) TIM 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plowboy Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 3 hours ago, Kit Karson said: And, be aware of misleading instructions: Attaching the coil-over spring (Part #42) to the tip of the exhaust pipe is NOT how it works! -KK Not to mention that installing the engine before the suspension makes it a PITA to install the suspension! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocking Rodney Rat Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 Instructions??? What does Mr. Snake say???? -RRR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Karson Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 Here's an easy fix, the bar on the bottom of Revell '29 PU part# 53 Pickup Bed is a tad bit too wide. That little BLACK MARK has to go! Same amount on both ends! Here we "TAKE" the line! Both directions. Notches cut! Needs a little filing... Now it fits! Moving on, there are a couple of assumptions that I will be working under: Doors will be fixed (NOT a big fan of the hinges on the swinging doors) Although, I did get them to work on the '29 PU V-12 Midnight Auto Salvage K&R Kustoms+Rods Parts Truck And, the next step will take a little extra modifications to make the parts fit together. So far the mods have been pretty straight forward. -KK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullybeef Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 I’m excited to see the next round of progress from the Three Amigos of styrene 😜 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plowboy Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 On 2/1/2021 at 12:05 AM, Dennis Lacy said: The engine looks nice Dennis! Even if it is painted pink! Can't wait to see the body in paint! Personally, I think the body and fenders should be the same color to be an '80s era build. That was when monochromatic paint jobs were the "in" thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Lacy Posted February 7, 2021 Author Share Posted February 7, 2021 UPDATE! More parts finished! Here's all the surf junk for the bed detailed out. A bunch of tedious steps masking and painting the scuba tanks! RRR suggested off-site that I should add a strap to the goggle so I'm contemplating that. The board and shark decal are from Revell's 37/38 Ford Pickup while the rest is from Monogram's "Blue Bandito" '29 Roadster Pickup retro release. Frame is finished purple and clear coated. Here's the rest of the finished suspension parts, some of which were hung up waiting on their purple paint to go with the frame. And to get an idea of how the purple and pink will look together... At this point I have a little more clean up work to do on the cab, bed and fenders and they are heading to primer in the coming week. I'm waiting on a can of paint to show up in the mail so that I can complete the "upholstery" painting. I'm also waiting on a restock of Tamiya masking tape to show up that I likewise need to finish up interior stuff. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullybeef Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 I know this is not directly related to the topic at hand, but it has some relevance haha. I was digging through some boxes in my basement and found this among some older hot rod magazines! too bad the article was not in colour! @tim boyd 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 2 hours ago, Bullybeef said: I know this is not directly related to the topic at hand, but it has some relevance haha. I was digging through some boxes in my basement and found this among some older hot rod magazines! too bad the article was not in colour! @tim boyd Bill, and with apologies to Dennis and others on this thread, here is three color images of that model, placed alongside the current Revell '29A Roadster Highboy kit.... Now, back to our regularly scheduled program here! Best....TB 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Lacy Posted February 8, 2021 Author Share Posted February 8, 2021 UPDATE! Today I finished the last bit of fabrication work needed which was to install the hinge halves on the cab and then drill the hinges to take proper metal pins. With that final task complete the cab, bed and fenders are ready to go into primer in the coming week. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Lacy Posted February 8, 2021 Author Share Posted February 8, 2021 UPDATE! Today I finished the last bit of fabrication work needed which was to install the hinge halves on the cab and then drill the hinges to take proper metal pins. With that final task complete the cab, bed and fenders are ready to go into primer in the coming week. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocking Rodney Rat Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 (edited) Lest anyone thinks I'm not hard at work on my version of the truck, I'm in paint mode. here's a few sneak peeks of what I've been up to.... I fabricated my own dash after I was considering the dash from the AMT '34 Ford. I decided to use some of the photo-etched parts I have that I hardly ever use. The gauge panel is from Model Car Garage, the gauge inset panel will be added soon. Door panels are from the AMT Phantom Vickie [sic] with parts box seats. Here's the hood, in Tamiya Light Blue. It's BRIGHT!! Just like they used to do.... -RRR Edited February 8, 2021 by Rocking Rodney Rat 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Karson Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 (edited) 19 hours ago, tim boyd said: Bill, and with apologies to Dennis and others on this thread, here is three color images of that model, placed alongside the current Revell '29A Roadster Highboy kit.... Now, back to our regularly scheduled program here! Best....TB @Bullybeef; @tim boyd; @Dennis Lacy; @Rocking Rodney Rat Here's where we tie everything together... The new roadster is going to contribute it's floorboard and firewall to our "29A Closed Cab Pickup build! We'll remove the top part of the '29A PU's Firewall; notch out the corner's of the '29 Roadster's Firewall while attached to the '29 Roadster Floorboard with scotch tape. Dragging the #11 blade chisels a fine line removing material about as wide as a fine marker ink line. Until the upper portion is removed... Had to add back a little material to make the roadster firewall fit... Now to add a little material to the '29 roadster firewall so that it'll fit the '29 PU body... after filing the notches on both sides of the '29 roadster's firewall. Had to clamp the material while the CA glue sets up... Once the cab & roadster firewall fit; it's on to the ''29 roadster's floorboard. and, how they fit together... Remember when I mentioned that this build was going to be different than @Dennis Lacy's build, in that it will not have hinged opening doors. To that end, the roadster floorboard will be installed inside the '29A's cab. With the perfection, as if the parts somehow were meant to go together! From all angles, the fit of the '29 roadster firewall and the '29A cab is everything needed to proceed to the next step! Remember, the difference in the depth of the floor and the bottom of the cab will not be seen, once the doors are fit to the cab! Next up we pull parts for the engine: You'll be surprised where the '80's/'90's powerplant will come from! Here's where I'm going to dig into a couple of older Revell kits for the engine and transmission parts. Stay tuned boys and girls! -KK Edited February 8, 2021 by Kit Karson Spelling correction Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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