NOBLNG Posted May 20, 2021 Posted May 20, 2021 (edited) Anybody have any things you have done that did not turn out as planned or needed correction...kind of an anti-tip? I made a copy of the Revell Jeep Honcho frame out of styrene sheet. To make matters worse, I laminated .060” and .040” to get the .100” that I wanted. It worked OK, but the seam of the lamination is a pain to fill. Next time I will invest in the proper thickness of sheet or use rectangular stock. Well, live and learn.? Edited May 20, 2021 by NOBLNG
Vince Nemanic Posted May 20, 2021 Posted May 20, 2021 Try stretching some sprue and installing it with liquid glue. It will melt into the styrene and it sands well. You may still need a tiny amount of putty. 1
youpey Posted May 20, 2021 Posted May 20, 2021 i messed up an otherwise great paint job trying to use locktite to glue on a mirror. it didnt hold and discolored the clear coat. i was able to respray the area with a quick shot of color and a clear and it is hardly noticeable. i will stick to my regular glue
misterNNL Posted May 20, 2021 Posted May 20, 2021 When laminating sheets I typically bevel the mating edges so there is room for filler at seams.
NOBLNG Posted May 20, 2021 Author Posted May 20, 2021 2 hours ago, youpey said: i messed up an otherwise great paint job trying to use locktite to glue on a mirror. it didnt hold and discolored the clear coat. i was able to respray the area with a quick shot of color and a clear and it is hardly noticeable. i will stick to my regular glue I like to put pins in those before paint so that very little glue is needed at final assembly. 1
NOBLNG Posted May 20, 2021 Author Posted May 20, 2021 3 hours ago, Vince Nemanic said: Try stretching some sprue and installing it with liquid glue. It will melt into the styrene and it sands well. You may still need a tiny amount of putty. Good idea, I should have done that at the beginning. 5 minutes ago, misterNNL said: When laminating sheets I typically bevel the mating edges so there is room for filler at seams. Good idea also.
Ace-Garageguy Posted May 20, 2021 Posted May 20, 2021 I'll never hold a part in the palm of my hand while I'm drilling a hole again. Backing that bit out of the bone and taking a plug of meat out with it...well, once was enough. 2 1
Snake45 Posted May 21, 2021 Posted May 21, 2021 Never again will I dip the warped roof of a model into BOILING water to try to straighten it out. Especially not a rare unbuilt kit body. 1
NOBLNG Posted May 21, 2021 Author Posted May 21, 2021 10 hours ago, Snake45 said: Never again will I dip the warped roof of a model into BOILING water to try to straighten it out. Especially not a rare unbuilt kit body. Yeah, a butane lighter is not a good idea either!? 1
thatz4u Posted May 21, 2021 Posted May 21, 2021 13 hours ago, Snake45 said: Never again will I dip the warped roof of a model into BOILING water to try to straighten it out. Especially not a rare unbuilt kit body. 2 hours ago, NOBLNG said: Yeah, a butane lighter is not a good idea either!? save the stuff for a junkyard or demo-derby diorama... 1
El Roberto Posted May 22, 2021 Posted May 22, 2021 On 5/20/2021 at 5:32 PM, Ace-Garageguy said: I'll never hold a part in the palm of my hand while I'm drilling a hole again. Backing that bit out of the bone and taking a plug of meat out with it...well, once was enough. Oh yeah! I've put a very tidy hole in my finger doing that. 1
Beans Posted May 24, 2021 Posted May 24, 2021 Never again will I forget about the body in the plastic bag with a bunch of the below stripper for about 36 hours.
Scott8950 Posted June 26, 2021 Posted June 26, 2021 On 5/20/2021 at 9:42 PM, Snake45 said: Never again will I dip the warped roof of a model into BOILING water to try to straighten it out. Especially not a rare unbuilt kit body. I've tried boiling water on a badly warped resin and it worked out ok but I definitely wouldn't try it on anything vintage. A hairdryer works good but you've gotta be careful with it also, don't ask me how I know ?
Snake45 Posted June 26, 2021 Posted June 26, 2021 45 minutes ago, Scott8950 said: I've tried boiling water on a badly warped resin and it worked out ok but I definitely wouldn't try it on anything vintage. A hairdryer works good but you've gotta be careful with it also, don't ask me how I know ? I've been using steam to unwarp styrene with some success. Latest try was the "caved-in" roof of a Monogram 1/24 '65 Corvette. Was trying to get just a touch of convex on the upper line of the windshield. Didn't quite make it but I did get it straight across--definitely better than the concave line I started with.
youpey Posted June 26, 2021 Posted June 26, 2021 i will never pour resin again without verifying it is water tight first. ruined a perfectly good folding table
NOBLNG Posted June 26, 2021 Author Posted June 26, 2021 1 hour ago, Snake45 said: I've been using steam to unwarp styrene with some success. Latest try was the "caved-in" roof of a Monogram 1/24 '65 Corvette. Was trying to get just a touch of convex on the upper line of the windshield. Didn't quite make it but I did get it straight across--definitely better than the concave line I started with. That would look real nice in a charcoal gray metallic! ?
jaftygas Posted May 22, 2023 Posted May 22, 2023 On 5/20/2021 at 9:14 AM, NOBLNG said: Anybody have any things you have done that did not turn out as planned or needed correction...kind of an anti-tip? I made a copy of the Revell Jeep Honcho frame out of styrene sheet. To make matters worse, I laminated .060” and .040” to get the .100” that I wanted. It worked OK, but the seam of the lamination is a pain to fill. Next time I will invest in the proper thickness of sheet or use rectangular stock. Well, live and learn.? This is a pretty sweet looking frame. We do what we can with what we got! In light of this, I’d say you nailed it. BTW, I think the anti tips and tricks is a start of a great subject.
Chariots of Fire Posted October 4, 2023 Posted October 4, 2023 Well, never go after a part you just dropped while holding a running dremel with a carbide disk in it. Did a number on my leg. Needed 4 stiches to close it up! Calmly shut the dremel off and set it down first!?
Horrorshow Posted October 6, 2023 Posted October 6, 2023 I will never use a bottle from my building supplies (paint, glue, decal restorers etc.) without reading the label first. While my accident was minor, it could have ruined a paint job. Decal restorer and decal softener are not interchangeable.
stitchdup Posted October 6, 2023 Posted October 6, 2023 never again will i have my booth in the bathroom. turns out my deodrant and tamiya rattle tins are the same size when you aint looking and suburu blue armpits are not a good look (next time i'll use something flashier from hok, lol) 1 12
Horrorshow Posted October 7, 2023 Posted October 7, 2023 19 hours ago, stitchdup said: never again will i have my booth in the bathroom. turns out my deodrant and tamiya rattle tins are the same size when you aint looking and suburu blue armpits are not a good look (next time i'll use something flashier from hok, lol) Did you bare metal foil them too?? 3
W Humble Posted December 12, 2023 Posted December 12, 2023 What's worse than staggering into the bathroom and starting to brush you teeth with Preparation H? Mistaking toothpaste, esp the very minty kind, for it for the purpose intended. I did the former! Senior moment? Wick 2
stitchdup Posted December 16, 2023 Posted December 16, 2023 never again will i use local words when buying tools elsewhere. I was in a model railway shop looking at tools and i asked the guy if he had any peedie files. it didn't go down well. locally to me peedie means small 1
W Humble Posted December 16, 2023 Posted December 16, 2023 Pretty thin-skinned shop guy?! Eensie, teenie-weenie, bitsy -- no better? I'll bet they had 'em, tho! Wick
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