Revell 1968 Dodge Charger R/T. Day 2/Street Machine, in Plum Crazy.

[espo]

If it comes to pass that you have to spray paint the area, just remember to avoid any masking tape around the tail panel decals. That would not end well. This is a shame since the color and finish on the paint is really nice.  

[Oldcarfan27]

Since "Plum Crazy" wasn't available until 1970 - I would call this a YEAR two car!!

I do like the color combo though.

[Dragonhawk1066]

I taped off the outside of the body and painted the headliner. I used Stynylrez white primer through my airbrush. Unfortunately, while removing the masking tape, the clear peeled off in four different areas. The front passenger side of the roof, a small spot on the driver's 1/4 panel, a small spot on the passenger front fender, and a bigger spot on the passenger 1/4 panel. This is at least the third time I have had this happen with Testors Clears. The first three times, the clear had cured for about a week before masking. while this time the clear had cured for two months. I'll try wet-sanding the spots smooth, and brush on some Pledge Floor Gloss. This process worked pretty well the first three times, so hopefully it works again here.

[slusher]

I plan on giving Tamiya’s clear a try per Plowboys recommendation…

[Dominik]

oh man, thats sad to see, if there are cracks and dents in the paint. keep up the head ?

[David G.]

I can empathize with you on all the difficulties this one is giving you. I think most of us have dealt with similar issues at some point or another.

What you have so far looks great and I wish you all the best luck in correcting the troublesome paint issues.

David G.

[espo]

Sorry to see this. You're almost back to squire one on the paint. Just a thought on painting the interior headliner. Usually I'll paint the interior of the model before the exterior. This will include the lower portions of the body that may be seen after assembly along with the engine compartment and the headliner. You can go ahead and finish your exterior sanding and anything else that will not require painting like a coat of primer. After cleaning the model with soap and water and getting ready to start primers and color coats then I'll mask the inside of the body. This will require a lot of carful masking and plenty of tape. The upside is that it is usually easier to touch up the underside than going back over the bodies finish or even having to strip the whole thing. 

[Dragonhawk1066]

That is certainly a viable method, but this is just a much easier process for me. Most of the time it's not an issue painting the body first, especially on cars with a black interior. On lighter colored interiors with a matching lighter headliner, I usually try not to get too much paint on the inside of the body. I always just brush on craft paints for the inside of the bodies and on the headliners. Because of that, I really like to get the body wet-sanded before that step as the craft paints are water based and I don't want to take the chance of losing some paint during the wet-sand process. I painted this one two months ahead of when I started to build it and wasn't sure what color I would be painting the headliner, but I did make the mistake of getting too much paint on the inside of the body. 

[Dragonhawk1066]

15 hours ago, Dominik said:

oh man, thats sad to see, if there are cracks and dents in the paint. keep up the head ?

 

12 hours ago, David G. said:

I can empathize with you on all the difficulties this one is giving you. I think most of us have dealt with similar issues at some point or another.

What you have so far looks great and I wish you all the best luck in correcting the troublesome paint issues.

David G.

Thanks, unfortunately this has happened before with Testors clears, so I'm pretty confident I can make the necessary repairs and not have it very noticeable.

 

18 hours ago, slusher said:

I plan on giving Tamiya’s clear a try per Plowboys recommendation…

I've had great results with Tamiya clears, and while I really try to match brands when painting and clearing, I may just be done with Testors Clears and go exclusively with Tamiya Clears.

[Bills72sj]

2 hours ago, Dragonhawk1066 said:

 

Thanks, unfortunately this has happened before with Testors clears, so I'm pretty confident I can make the necessary repairs and not have it very noticeable.

 

Were you using Testors Clear Glosscote enamel or Testors Wet Look Lacquer? If it was the lacquer, is it really old stock or the newer formula from recent years?

[Dragonhawk1066]

21 hours ago, Bills72sj said:

Were you using Testors Clear Glosscote enamel or Testors Wet Look Lacquer? If it was the lacquer, is it really old stock or the newer formula from recent years?

I honestly can't remember what clear I used on it, but it was Testors/Model Master lacquers, as I have never bought their enamel clear. I have three different cans of clear opened, Testors Glosscote #1261, Testors Extreme Lacquer Wet Look Clear, and Model Master Gloss Clear #1961, so it was one of those. I've had each of them for less than 2 years, but don't know how long they were on the shelf before I bought them. 

[Oldcarfan27]

Early Glosscote is notorious for peeling with tape, it doesn't adhere to the painted surface. You could continue peeling off the clear with more tape and wipe off the remaining clear with 70% rubbing alcohol and a cotton ball or Qtip.

Did you put the decals on "under" or "over" the clearcote?

[StevenGuthmiller]

My thoughts on your issue.

I gave up on Testors clear lacquers, at least for bodies, some time ago due to issues with it.

My recurring problem was cracking that sometimes wouldn’t begin to take place until days later, and would often continue to get worse as time went on, so I gave it the old heave-ho.

As far as the tape difficulties go, this is exactly why, along with other problems, why I never mask over a paint job with tape, especially a standard masking tape.

If I need to mask, I use only Tamiya tape around the perimeter where it will contact the paint, and mask the rest with masking paper.

This has saved me a great deal of grief over the years.

 

 

Steve

[Dragonhawk1066]

27 minutes ago, Oldcarfan27 said:

Early Glosscote is notorious for peeling with tape, it doesn't adhere to the painted surface. You could continue peeling off the clear with more tape and wipe off the remaining clear with 70% rubbing alcohol and a cotton ball or Qtip.

Did you put the decals on "under" or "over" the clearcote?

Thanks for the tip, the spots are small enough that I'm pretty sure some Pledge will blend them in. The decals are under the clear.

[Dragonhawk1066]

1 minute ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

My thoughts on your issue.

I gave up on Testors clear lacquers, at least for bodies, some time ago due to issues with it.

My recurring problem was cracking that sometimes wouldn’t begin to take place until days later, and would often continue to get worse as time went on, so I gave it the old heave-ho.

As far as the tape difficulties go, this is exactly why, along with other problems, why I never mask over a paint job with tape, especially a standard masking tape.

If I need to mask, I use only Tamiya tape around the perimeter where it will contact the paint, and mask the rest with masking paper.

This has saved me a great deal of grief over the years.

 

 

Steve

I think I'm going to call it a day with the Testors Clears as well, I've been very happy with all of my Tamiya Clear subjects. Tamiya Tape is great as well, but it did lift the one spot on the roof. I usually try very hard not to mask over clear, but in this case my painting steps made it necessary. Hopefully I can store this situation in my memory banks and not let it happen again, lol.

[Dragonhawk1066]

Looks like I'm going to have to try to mask off and spray the area on the driver's 1/4 panel that I tried to fix with wet-sanding, as my touch-up attempt with a brush was a fail. In the meantime, I got the engine wired and glued to the transmission, finished the interior, and detailed the taillight panel.

[tbill]

Sorry to read about the clear coat issues , hopefully you can get that sorted out without too much drama. The interior looks terrific!

[slusher]

Interior looks fantastic. Craig you have had a really good attitude on what I have read about your clear coat problems.

[David G.]

The rear clip and interior look great!

It's a bummer about the respray. But at least you have experience with this issue and have a solid plan to address it.

David G.

[doorsovdoon]

I like the black and white interior. Beautiful body colour, it's a shame it went south but I know you'll get it sorted. When I get light paint issues I just scuff the paint after it's cured for a while and just re paint the whole thing, one coat usually does it if it's the same colour.

[Dragonhawk1066]

I made a couple of failed attempts to fix the driver's 1/4 panel, so I finally did what I should have done in the first place and taped off the whole panel from the back of the door to the stripes. Thankfully, it was a success, and I can continue on with the BMF for the trim. I wasn't liking the longer shifter, which was meant for use without the console, so I cut it off at the boot and just after the first bend. I then glued the remaining part onto the boot and it's now a more reasonable looking shifter.

[Dragonhawk1066]

I got the trim foiled over the last two days, then put on the panel line accent and a coat of wax before installing the "glass". Then I put in the interior tub, and then added the chassis. I had already assembled the front and rear suspensions, and cut and bent the exhaust to match up with the headers, so those went on pretty quickly. I did have to grind down the front part of the rear suspension in order to get the wheels centered in the wheel wells. I also cut four small pieces of styrene strip to use as shims on all four rear suspension mounting points to set the ride height.

[NOBLNG]

Nice save on that paint job. That is looking excellent!?

[tbill]

Agreed, great save on the paint! 
 

that’s really looking good ?

[FLHCAHZ]

As others have said-nice save on the paint work.  This really turning out great!