Ghostbusters Ecto-1 by Polar Lights: WIP

[Bob Ellis]

Which Ecto-1 kit is better, the AMT or Polar LIghts?

[David G.]

22 hours ago, slusher said:

Looks fantastic, David..

Thank you Carl.

17 hours ago, Joe Handley said:

This looks pretty good David! 

One thing I'm curious about thought, what's your thoughts on this kit vs the AMT kit?

Thanks for the kind comment Joe.

I currently have both versions of the kit on my bench and I have to say, for building, I prefer the AMT kit. The polar lights kit is a snap together and its engineering reflects that with the use of locator tabs, clips and slots in several areas. While there aren't many of them, a skilled model builder would likely find them more of a hinderance than a help, as did I.  As an example, earlier in this thread I posted about the difficulties I had fitting the fins to the body. An issue due entirely to the locating tabs which are unique to the Polar Lights kit.  

The AMT version also has a more detailed decal sheet, an updated interior casting and some better detail items for the roof kit.

And of course, each kit represents a different version of the car. The Ecto 1 from the first movie by Polar Lights and the "A" refit  from the second movie by AMT.

Aside from these points they are very much the same kit. 

16 hours ago, Mr. Metallic said:

Why not treat them as what they really are, posts. Paint them white just like the outside and it will make them look more like individual panes of glass.

Loving what you're doing on this. it's getting close to the finish line.

Thanks for your comment Craig. Painting was definitely one of the options I considered but I decided on a different approach using styrene strips instead.

Thanks again, I'm glad you like it. Yes, the end is in sight, I'm even starting to plan my next build.

9 hours ago, Bob Ellis said:

Which Ecto-1 kit is better, the AMT or Polar LIghts?

Hi Bob. I'm not sure if it's a matter of one kit being better than the other as much as what a builder wants in the end. If you want to build Ecto 1, get the Polar Lights kit. If you want to build Ecto 1-A get the AMT kit. Though from an engineering standpoint, the AMT kit is a technically a bit better, in my opinion it would much more work to backdate it to accurately represent the Ecto 1 than it would be to overcome the deficiencies in the Polar Lights kit and vice versa.

Ideally, one should get both kits and fuse them together into whichever version is desired. Which is what I ended up doing.

In either case, due to changes in IP ownership and licensing, both of these kits will become increasingly difficult to find and undoubtedly more expensive as time goes on. So whatever you want to do, do it soon.

Thanks Again,

David G.

[David G.]

Hello Everybody!

I decided to address the pillar issue by adding pillars. I cut down some .030" x .125" strip styrene and glued it in place with Micro Krystal Klear PVA.

I'll probably just paint the inside of the A pillars silver and allow them to show through the glass.

 

As always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to comment.

David G.

[David G.]

Hello Everybody!

It seems that the BMF curse has finally settled on my humble workbench. I've been using BMF since around 2010 or 2012 when I placed my first order. Last year, I began to get down to the last bits of that original order, so I reordered. A few months after I received my order, I began to see the numerous complaints pop up on this board. The complaints were focused on two aspects of the product, the only two aspects of the product, metal quality and adhesion.

Luckily, the problem with the lot that I'm currently mostly fighting with is adhesion... mostly.

It. Just. Doesn't. Stick.

It sticks long enough to get it into position and trim it but it that's it. If I try to burnish it down or if I touch it in any way, it just literally falls off! Even if I just move the model to place the next piece, gravity will often cause it to drop away from the surface and float off like a dead leaf! 

After fighting with this issue for a couple of build sessions, I started using a diluted solution of PVA to get the... the stuff to stick.

Also a problem, but not as big a problem as the adhesive, is the metal foil. It is certainly not the same alloy as it was in the past. It cuts and works more like lead than aluminum. It seems slightly thicker and less able to conform to curved surfaces but also less durable with a higher tendency to break and tear.

Unfortunately I ordered two sheets of the product. The last two sheets I ordered lasted me nearly a decade. But with the amount of spoilage I'm getting in using this... rubbish, I should go through this order much more quickly.

I guess that's good news?! 😕 

Anyway, thanks for putting up with my rant, here's a photo I'm almost ashamed to share with you.

 

It's actually not too bad, but not as good as it should be. Thankfully, there's not as much brightwork on this particular car as there are with others of the same period.

As always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to comment.

David G.

[slusher]

David, try clear coat on a small section.  Rich Manson told me about a few good uses of clear coat as glue..

[David G.]

4 hours ago, slusher said:

David, try clear coat on a small section.  Rich Manson told me about a few good uses of clear coat as glue..

Thanks for the tip Carl. The PVA seems to be working well enough for now and it's less expensive than clear coat. I have a bottle of Micro Kristal Klear that is almost ready for retirement. I think I should use what's left to make a solution just for use with foil application.

But I'll certainly keep the clear coat in mind. I've used it for placing PE so I know it works.

Thanks Again,

David G.

[David G.]

Hello Everybody!

Though it may seem like it, I haven't given up on this one. Progress foiling with this most recent order of BMF is to say the least,  slow and frustrating. But I'm learning to work with it.

After trimming an appropriate sized piece of foil I do an initial burnishing in place to work the foil into the basic shape of where it will go. I then brush the areas where I intend to apply the foil with a diluted solution of Micro Krystal Klear and allow that to rest for a couple of minutes before reapplying and reburnishing the foil. I then have to allow about ten minutes for the glue to set before the final trimming.

It's tedious to say the least.

 

Though the foil is rough in around the window trim areas, thankfully it looks fairly good on the fins and hood spears.

 

It's just frustrating to have put so much time and effort into this model then to have to struggle with something so basic only to achieve mediocre results. I hope that BMF gets this quality issue sorted out.

I do have some old Testors Model Master foil, I may give that a shot.

David G.

[David G.]

Hello Everybody!

After a month of struggle, the foil work is done! Well, with the exception of the little bit that I overlooked which was discovered as I edited the photos. In any event, I'm now beginning to feel that I can move on with the rest of the work on this one.

 

As always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to comment.

David G.

[David G.]

Hello Everybody!

I know that the updates have been slow in coming but it seems that life has a way of interfering with our hobbies. I haven't given up yet.

Now that the foil work is as done as I'm going to get it, I've begun to move on with the more regular parts of the build.

This is the fender mounted whip antenna, it looks almost comically out of scale. In 1:25 scale it measures out to be almost two inches thick. That just won't do.

 

To fix the antenna, I cut off the radiator hose sized mast, drilled out the base and replaced the mast with a length of guitar string. It looks much more realistic.

 

As always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to comment.

David G.

 

[Mattilacken]

Loopings good! Nice progress on a iconic topic!

[David G.]

20 hours ago, Mattilacken said:

Loopings good! Nice progress on a iconic topic!

Thank you Anton, I'm glad you like it.

David G.

[David G.]

Hello Everybody!

I've been away for a while but now I'm back.

The wheels have been black-washed, clear coated and mounted. Next up is putting some "chrome" on the rear bumper.

 

The factory chrome finish on the rear bumper was rough to say the least. The chrome coating itself wasn't too bad but it was applied over some rather noticeable casting artifacts like thick attachment points, flash and molding scars. Because of this, I decided to strip and respray the chrome finish.

For chrome paint options I have Duplicolor Chrome Silver and Spaz Stix, and Alclad. Each of which I've had varying degrees of success with. But I recently purchased some Molotow chrome paint which I have yet to try.

That's all for now. As always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to comment.

David G.

[Bugatti Fan]

If the Bare Metal Foil company get enough complaints the problem might get sorted.

I doubt it BMF even look at forums like this, so the gripes go unnoticed probably.

[Captain Spaulding]

Nice work on this David, one of the nicest Ecto-1's I've seen.

[FLHCAHZ]

The wheels look great!  I'm looking forward to seeing the magic you do on the rear bumper 

[David G.]

3 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said:

If the Bare Metal Foil company get enough complaints the problem might get sorted.

I doubt it BMF even look at forums like this, so the gripes go unnoticed probably.

Yes, I've been thinking I should send them an email.

1 hour ago, Captain Spaulding said:

Nice work on this David, one of the nicest Ecto-1's I've seen.

Thank you Jason, it's nice having all that work recognized. 

Just now, FLHCAHZ said:

The wheels look great!  I'm looking forward to seeing the magic you do on the rear bumper 

Thanks Chaz, me too.

Hopefully, I'll have more soon, I'm eager to see this one wrapped up.

David G.

[David G.]

Hello Everybody!

This is my first time shooting Molotow through my airbrush and I have to say that I'm pleased with the results. This paint goes on thicker than other chrome paints that I'm used to. It's almost like Pledge acrylic Floor Care when used as a clear coat. Spray it on thick, in comparison to other chrome paints and let it level itself out.

 

Not too shabby.

 

As always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to post a comment.

David G.

[Mr. Metallic]

On 5/4/2022 at 6:51 AM, David G. said:

Hello Everybody!

This is my first time shooting Molotow through my airbrush and I have to say that I'm pleased with the results. This paint goes on thicker than other chrome paints that I'm used to. It's almost like Pledge acrylic Floor Care when used as a clear coat. Spray it on thick, in comparison to other chrome paints and let it level itself out.

Not too shabby.

As always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to post a comment.

David G.

It looks great, but be forewarned, it needs to cure for a long time (weeks) before it can be handled. Otherwise the finish can get diminished. And it's not a paint, it's an ink. 

Don't get me wrong, it's a good product to have in the toolbox. But I only use it on parts I know I won't be touching again.

On 5/3/2022 at 2:28 AM, Bugatti Fan said:

If the Bare Metal Foil company get enough complaints the problem might get sorted.

I doubt it BMF even look at forums like this, so the gripes go unnoticed probably.

The Bare Metal Foil Company is aware of the issue. They have recently received a new supply of the material they use to make BMF. If you contact them directly you can get new, good product.

Sadly, they apparently made no attempt to differentiate the packaging at all so buyers don't  know if they are getting the new-new product, the good old stuff, or the new BAD stuff if purchased from an online retailer or your LHS. So, buyer beware if you don't buy directly from them.

Edited May 5, 2022 by Mr. Metallic

[FLHCAHZ]

The bumper look great David.  Are planning on clearing it?

[David G.]

14 hours ago, Mr. Metallic said:

It looks great, but be forewarned, it needs to cure for a long time (weeks) before it can be handled. Otherwise the finish can get diminished. And it's not a paint, it's an ink. 

Don't get me wrong, it's a good product to have in the toolbox. But I only use it on parts I know I won't be touching again.

The Bare Metal Foil Company is aware of the issue. They have recently received a new supply of the material they use to make BMF. If you contact them directly you can get new, good product.

Sadly, they apparently made no attempt to differentiate the packaging at all so buyers don't  know if they are getting the new-new product, the good old stuff, or the new BAD stuff if purchased from an online retailer or your LHS. So, buyer beware if you don't buy directly from them.

Hi Craig, thanks for the pointer but as my photo editing and posting usually lags about a week behind my building by the time I read your post I had already learned that the hard way. As you'll see in the following post, it took me a couple attempts to get things sorted but I think I have come up with a workable solution.

33 minutes ago, FLHCAHZ said:

The bumper look great David.  Are planning on clearing it?

Thanks Chaz. As you'll see in the next post, I had to change directions a little.

As always, thanks for the feedback.

David G.

[David G.]

Hello Everybody!

The Ecto-1 adventure continues.

After allowing the Molotow chrome to cure for a couple of days, I decided to start painting some clear red in the pods to represent the tail light lenses. I put a white cotton glove on my left hand to help protect the paint and this is what happened. As far as I knew, the glove was clean and this shouldn't have happened.

 

So I got out my airbrush and shot a second coat over the first one that got fingerprinted. Success! Though thicker than I would like, the paint went on smoothly and looks at least as good as the first coat.

 

After letting the Molotow cure over night, I decided to have a look-see and this happened. No glove this time so I figured that this is more of a curing issue. I did some research and learned that Molotow generally takes longer to cure than most other paints. While most other paints can cure in days or weeks, Molotow can take weeks or months to completely cure. I'm going to let this part soak in the purple pond while I reconsider my options. After spending six months and nearly 100 hours on this build I surely don't want to wait as long as two more months to finish it. But if I have to, I will.

 

Thanks again to Mr. Metallic for the advice regarding the Molotow usage but due to my photo editing cycle, I learned it a little too late.

I think I'm going to need a little break from this. I know that I'm almost done but but sometimes that last mile of the race is the longest. I started this one in October of 2021; 2022 is nearly half over and I have yet to complete a build project. I feel the need to get something on the shelf so I'm going to set this one aside for a time and redirect my attention to a fresh project. Hopefully one that I can complete in a reasonable time period.

I'll get back to this one soon but until then, thanks to all of you who provided feedback and support.

David G.

Edited May 8, 2022 by David G.
typo

[David G.]

Hello Everybody!

I started this one back in November of 2021 with the intent of it being my final build for the year. I thought, "Just a simple snap-together kit, should be no problem, right?". But I ended up jumping down the rabbit hole on this one.. that hole was long, twisty and deep. On top of that, I experienced a little setback with the chrome on the rear bumper that caused me to need to step away from it for a while.

With 2022 almost half over I was feeling the need to complete a build for the year so I set a challenge for myself. My Seven Day Build challenge, here's a link to that. With that challenge completed (yup, here's another link) it's time to get this one back on the rails.

OK, I stripped the Molotow off the bumper, then I had to spend time smoothing out some rough spots that arose in the plastic from the effects of multiple trips to the Purple Pond.

For this attempt I decided to use up the last of my Spaz Stix. Though, in my opinion the results don't look as good as the Molotow did this should be easier to work with.

 

The Spaz Stix worked pretty well. I think the multiple paint applications and removals had some minor adverse effects on the part's surface quality. It's not an ideal outcome but it will do.

 

I've completed the detail painting with Tamiya Clear Red and a mixture of Tamiya Flat White and Clear. All that's left now is to double check all the sub-assemblies then put the whole thing together for the last time. It's been a long road but I'm glad I did it and I'm even gladder that it's done. 

 

Thanks to all of you who stuck with me through this one, your words of encouragement helped to keep bringing me back.

This one is essentially done. Once I get the final photos together, I'll post them in the Under Glass section.

Thanks again,

David G.

[slusher]

Quality over quantity is the main thing. I worked i Quality for a long time still remember my boss’s lessons..

[Steve H]

Hi David, nice to see you back on this one. The rear bumper chrome looks really nice. Did you use a black base coat? Curious, because one day I will be brave and have a go at trying Alclad chrome, or Spaz Stix. Looking forward to your progress on this.

Cheers, Steve

[David G.]

8 hours ago, slusher said:

Quality over quantity is the main thing. I worked i Quality for a long time still remember my boss’s lessons..

Thank you for your kind words Carl.

8 hours ago, Steve H said:

Hi David, nice to see you back on this one. The rear bumper chrome looks really nice. Did you use a black base coat? Curious, because one day I will be brave and have a go at trying Alclad chrome, or Spaz Stix. Looking forward to your progress on this.

Cheers, Steve

Hi Steve. For Spaz Stix I don't use a black base coat but I do when I spray Alclad. Thanks for your kind comment.

I'm going through the photos of the completed build now and should have them ready to post soon.

Thanks again,

David G.