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Peking to Paris CBP 2022


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Welcome to the Peking to Paris Model Car Rally Community Build. It will run from now until the end of 2022. Unlike the Cannonball CBP’s there will be no poll, no winner, no losers. This is a race of gentlemen.

We will use the same build rules that the actual racers use. I have outlined them below. Please read the rules in their entirety before you post your build as rules change depending on the choice of car.

This is a smart man’s race. The person that plans well and drives well, wins. Torque will win over horsepower. Gas mileage will be a concern. Weight, the ability to handle rough roads, water, weather, mud will all be factors. It’s hard to imagine a race were a ’40 Ford with a flattie beats a ’70 Hemi Cuda, but this is the one, I assure you.

 Only cars of a model type in production prior to 1975 will be eligible.

The Organizers may accept cars manufactured after 1975 provided they are a series evolution of the pre-1975 model and do not feature any performance advantage over the original model.  Basically said- if a '76 is mechanically the same as a '75, it is good to go.

They must be of a type designed to carry passengers with either a saloon or sports bodywork.

Estate cars (station wagons) are not acceptable.

Commercial or military vehicles such as light trucks, vans, ambulances, pick-ups and utility 4x4 vehicles are not eligible.

Cars not capable of sustaining a constant speed of at least 80 kph (50 mph) on a level surface will not be eligible to enter.

Entries will be accepted in the following Categories:
the Vintageant Category - Cars of a model type in production from 1920 to 1941
the Classic Category - Cars of a model type in production prior to 1975

The following modifications to the cars are NOT permitted:
- No conversion of live axle to independent suspension.
- No coil springs replacing leaf springs.
- No shock absorbers with separate reservoirs.
- No changing of the engine make or configuration. Configuration means the engine must be set up just the way it could have been in 19XX but not necessarily stock. If aftermarket speed equipment A and B was available then, it should be good to go. Basically you are restricted to the technology of the year of the car you are driving. 
- No fuel injection, unless available as original equipment (a standard-showroom production item of the model entered).
- No limited slip or torque biasing differential, unless available as original equipment.
- No disc brakes on cars in the Vintageant Category.
- No engine management systems or crank sensors.
- No conversion to rack and pinion or power steering. With this in mind, a small steering wheel might look grand, but in practice would be detrimental to handling.

- No body panels of alternative composite materials. No fiberglass or carbon fiber.
 -No wheel design (or material) that was unavailable when the car was in production.

Roof racks are permitted provided they meet the following specification:
- They must be of a design available at the time the car was in production
- They must be made of metal
- They must be no longer or wider than the roof panel
- They must have sides no higher than 45 cm (18 inches)
- the roof rack and spare wheels must not be covered

Trunk racks - must appear period correct.
All other modifications are permitted.

Note: Not all cars were built to take the punishment this rally can dish out. So think about ways to strengthen the vehicle within the rules and without adding a ton of weight. Spliting wishbones, adding shocks, adding an x-frame if your chassis doesn't come with one, add a panhard bar, add gussets where appropriate, etc, etc.

There will no limit to the quantity or the range of spares that can be carried in the car but trailers are not permitted.

Safety Equipment
- Seat Belts: It is strongly recommended that all cars in the Vintageant Category have seat belts fitted and used at all times. Cars in the Classic Category must have full harness seat belts fitted and these must be used at all times.
- Rollover Bars: It is strongly recommended that all cars have a roll bar fitted. the minimum requirement being a single hoop and two back stays.
- Fire and liquid proof bulkheads separating the passenger compartment from the engine and fuel tank are strongly recommended.
- A fire extinguisher of at least 1.75 liters must be securely fitted and within easy reach within the car.
- All cars must have mud flaps fitted to all four wheel arches.
- All cars must be fitted with a laminated windscreen or aero-screens

Two metal rally plates must be fixed to the front and rear of the car in a clearly visible position, but not obscuring the car license plates. The rally plates are the image above. If we have a good decal printer among us, perhaps they would volunteer to do some decals for us. If not, I recommend printing them on good photo paper rather than a decal.

In addition, racing numbers on the doors, for each side of the car must be visible. 

I realize that the actual 1:1 cars have magnetic numbers issued. A number in a light or dark circle depending on body color. If you have the ability to do generate a decal of that, rock on. If not, throwing the Intimidators number 3 on there is permissible.

Other Items as outlined in section 9.2 of the P2P Regs, such as tents, sleeping bags, first aid kit, spare tires, tow ropes are not required because they could simply be in a closed trunk, but adding them to the build in some way (backseat?) would be very cool.

Some useful links.


http://peking2paris2013.com/car/      this will show you a lot of modifications that can be done and still be within the rules.

Lastly, a Peking to Paris racer Google image search is highly recommended. This will show you what has been raced in the past. There is a team of guys that drive '37 - '39 Chevys and do well every year.


Edited by Jantrix
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Alright guys. Lets do this. Same rules as last time with the addendum. IF YOU DIDIN'T FINISH YOUR RACER FROM LAST TIME, IT IS STILL A VALID ENTRY FOR THIS CBP.


Feel free to do some Google searching on some of the cars used in this race. They are very unique and interesting.


1940 Packard 110 Deluxe of Nick Grewal and Dirk Burrows (USA) – Peking to  Paris 2019. Day 01 Great Wall | Paris, Jaguar e type, Vintage racing

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I've been reading up on the past P2P events, mostly the more recent races. I've read some interesting stories of triumphs and tragedys. I'm excited to see the builds here. I would like try to come up with something... if I don't get distracted. It's kinda like the Cannonball but with rules. So Cannonball Run with the exception of anything goes. 😁 

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The period correct part is the hardest for most people who play in this arena.  The organizers of the real deal are quite picky about "modifications" .  These cars must be mostly unmodified for the race, or show room stock if you wish.  The permitted modification are mostly for safety and not speed. 

 Here are the real deal rules. https://www.endurorally.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/ERA-Technical-Regulations.-issued-January-2020.pdf  Very intersting how they have this set up.  Not at all like other ralleys.  Completeing the "race" in an old car is the objective, not being the first to cross the finish line.  It is not about speed. 


Edited by Pete J.
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2 hours ago, Jantrix said:

Terrific Pete! Thanks very much.

PM me when you get the CBP set up.  I will need to have people PM me to see how many I need to print. My initial art work says I can do about 128 per page.  If everybody gets 4 then that would cover 32 people.  I give 4 because that is easiest for me to cut and gives the builder extras if they make a mistake.  I believe that the rules call for one placard, prominently displayed per car, but I see many cars with more than one.  The older cars typically have them on a mounting plate.  The newer ones most often use stickers. 

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1 hour ago, 426 pack said:

Wow has it really been 4 years since the last race already? 

Actually no. It was three years ago.

@Pete J., when I get edit capabilities from the mods, I'll change this thread into the actual build thread.

Also, since builds from the previous run are allowed, there's no point having a starting date beyond today.

So get building! The actual rally starts on May 28th 2022 and lasts 37 days. If you can get it done for the start date that would be groovy. If not, no sweat, we'll keep it going until the end of the year. Just like last time, there is no contest at the end, just the accomplishment of building a very cool model that will stand out in the rally section on ANY contest table. 

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Started to gather parts. A mix of AMT and Revell 67 Chevelle parts, rims from some old rocking ‘32 rod, PB tires that really works. Parts box single carb bb intake. Since both chevelles are pro street cars I stole the chassis from a parts ‘66 GTO, seems to work but need some mods, but at least it has its original coil spring rear end and front end. 




will see if I get the Feeling and if so it will be a quick build I guess;-) 

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I was in the last one, and never finished the build. I still have a box full of parts I collected. I'll try to get a car completed this time, so count me in. For those keeping track, it is a 1934 Ford.

I wonder if a Stutz  Bearcat would work?

Edited to add: I found the kit, I had started. I still have my P2P Decals and Car Roundels w/ Entry number.  I was #5. Found a started '32 Ford Phaeton too.

Which to build? Finish the '34 or start the '32? Decisions, Decisions........

Edited by alexis
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3 hours ago, alexis said:

I was in the last one, and never finished the build. I still have a box full of parts I collected. I'll try to get a car completed this time, so count me in. For those keeping track, it is a 1934 Ford.

I wonder if a Stutz  Bearcat would work?

Edited to add: I found the kit, I had started. I still have my P2P Decals and Car Roundels w/ Entry number.  I was #5. Found a started '32 Ford Phaeton too.

Which to build? Finish the '34 or start the '32? Decisions, Decisions........

Alex, I'm in the process of updating the placards with the 2022 date.  Look for my posting in the future to get a set of the updated one.  Roundels proved to be more than I wanted to tackle this time. 

  The Stutz would definitely work.  Right in the spirit of the rules. 

Edited by Pete J.
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