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Rustoleum 2X spray paints


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The aluminum has this style, or at least the California Emissions equipped aluminum does. This color looks horrible if you put clear flat over it, so I wrote myself a note on the plastic lid not to do so.

Are you the Steve Nowicki that used to do crazy things in the forest with a Fire Arrow?

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1 minute ago, steveracer said:

:)    That was quite a while ago with the first one....

I remember your name from Autoweek or something. I helped crew for some EXTREMELY amature friends up in Issaqua and over in Gerlach in the early 80s. It was quite a shoestring adventure. I don't think I have ever been so cold as I was in Gerlach. The mental midget that owned the van took the thermostat out because it overheated. Guess what? Solved the overheating but made the heater not work. I dumpster-dove some cardboard and blocked off the radiator completely and we still had no heat.

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Those were the good old days!  Adventure is king. Glad to see that you had an “adventure” in rallying.  And thanks for the shout out.  You may see some rally models on here soon.  
 

anyhoo. To stay on or off topic. I sprayed this with an old can of rust oleum ivory (but not 2x) with that crummy nozzle today.  One dust and one wet coat. It’s shrinking. But I want to preserve the details with low build up.  D0AFD34E-5102-4DEA-BF11-6EEF41CF9477.thumb.jpeg.c8f37dc57ea15e71cf84af45ec041089.jpegA6F8BEE6-158A-4E15-9F39-6E368B4607E0.thumb.jpeg.29440e18f4278f0232d8c3e056156cc1.jpegF792F88C-100D-42C3-A667-C2BB1F022C1C.thumb.jpeg.5f2ef2f747de9281a8e82ddb59d59b60.jpeg

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On 1/3/2022 at 5:15 PM, bbowser said:

Anyone run into these yet?  Rusto has some nice metallic colors but these nozzles are the pits!  I haven't tried to pry one off yet.

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I have. Used their Gloss Desert Rose on my ‘55 Chevy Bel Air back in 2020. She sure looks purty in that color.

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=4738

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On 1/2/2022 at 6:20 PM, Zippi said:

I've used Rust-Olem paint for years on everything from metal lawn furniture, birdhouses, and models.  Last year I tried the Rust-Oleum flat gray primer on a mode! and it worked out great.  The paint goes on smooth and levels out nicely.  I recently sprayed a model truck with Rusty Oleum flat white primer and cleared it with Tamiya pearl clear. The paint job turned out great.  I'll be trying the flat red primer and clearing it with Rust-Oleum clear lacquer this Spring.  

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Whoa... that looks really sharp!

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13 hours ago, steveracer said:

This thing just plugged up on me. My current favorite heavy fill primer. Maybe 15% gone in the can.  I thinner soaked the tip. It’s still plugged. I blew compressed air down the tube back into the can. That is not the problem. So I drilled out the tip with a 75 bit and it sprays pretty heavy.  
 

this will be a nice way to decant it. I may suggest a smaller drill bit to run through those crummy tips. 

Unless a chunk of solid paint came up from the can, I suspect that if you cleaned the tip immediately after last spraying, the tip would not clog.  That's how I do it.  Also, instead of using a drill bit, you might have been able to use a sewing needle to clean out the orifice whiteout causing too much damage.

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10 hours ago, BlackSheep214 said:

Whoa... that looks really sharp!

Thank's Thomas.  I've mainly just been using the flat gray and white primers under Craft paints, Tamiya, or Testors.  I may dip into the Rust-Oleum paint for a finish coat a little more this year.   

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On 1/4/2022 at 7:01 PM, steveracer said:

Those were the good old days!  Adventure is king. Glad to see that you had an “adventure” in rallying.  And thanks for the shout out.  You may see some rally models on here soon.  
 

anyhoo. To stay on or off topic. I sprayed this with an old can of rust oleum ivory (but not 2x) with that crummy nozzle today.  One dust and one wet coat. It’s shrinking. But I want to preserve the details with low build up.  D0AFD34E-5102-4DEA-BF11-6EEF41CF9477.thumb.jpeg.c8f37dc57ea15e71cf84af45ec041089.jpegA6F8BEE6-158A-4E15-9F39-6E368B4607E0.thumb.jpeg.29440e18f4278f0232d8c3e056156cc1.jpegF792F88C-100D-42C3-A667-C2BB1F022C1C.thumb.jpeg.5f2ef2f747de9281a8e82ddb59d59b60.jpeg

The paint on your VW looks really nice.  You say you painted it with Rust-Oleum but the pic of the Ivory paint can is Krylon. 

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16 hours ago, Chuckyg1 said:

I've used 2x without issue. These 3 & 3 more were painted with 2x, gloss & primer. The '48 interior is 2x also

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Nice builds Chuck!... Do you have more pictures of the  Ford utility pickup???? Please post them if ya got'em... Thanks bud!....🙂

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3 hours ago, deuces wild said:

Nice builds Chuck!... Do you have more pictures of the  Ford utility pickup???? Please post them if ya got'em... Thanks bud!....🙂

Thanks Guido. I posted the truck about a year ago under glass if you want to search for it. Beleove it was listed as 65 ford utility truck. If you can't find, I'll add some pics tomorrow afternoon. At work right now.

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6 hours ago, Zippi said:

The paint on your VW looks really nice.  You say you painted it with Rust-Oleum but the pic of the Ivory paint can is Krylon. 

LOL!  Old age is catching up with me!  Apparently the can is Krylon, and I can't tell the difference.  Good Catch Zippi.  

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So far I've used 2X Gloss White and Gloss Apple Red with great results, and the 2X Satin Canyon Black with mixed results, mainly due to slow drying causing tackiness even after a week. I have used the 2X White, Gray, and Matte Black Primers as well with great results for all three. The issues I've had were with the 2X clears. They seem to be very hot chemically, and have reacted with all paints I've tried them on, including the two 2X colors mentioned earlier. I do use the 2X Matte Clear over kit chrome for a brushed aluminum look with very good results.

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23 hours ago, Dragonhawk1066 said:

So far I've used 2X Gloss White and Gloss Apple Red with great results, and the 2X Satin Canyon Black with mixed results, mainly due to slow drying causing tackiness even after a week. I have used the 2X White, Gray, and Matte Black Primers as well with great results for all three. The issues I've had were with the 2X clears. They seem to be very hot chemically, and have reacted with all paints I've tried them on, including the two 2X colors mentioned earlier. I do use the 2X Matte Clear over kit chrome for a brushed aluminum look with very good results.

I use that same Satin Canyon Black often and never had an issue with it. It usually dries and cured enough for handling after 24 hours. No tackiness whatsoever. I’ve used it straight out of the rattle can and decanted for airbrushing. Now Krylon paint... I hated it and won’t use it again. Cheap garbage paint no matter what. I guess it depends on the individual and climate. Who knows. 

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  • 2 years later...

This is an older thread but I  will put in my two cents. The 2x aluminum looks as good  as the Tamiya, I  recently sprayed both. It's also a good base for clears and metallics. I don't like the new grey primer because of drying time. The same with there gloss paints, satin being better and flat being best. The clears are about opposite with gloss looking and drying the best. These are enamels with 2 day cure windows but the glosses can take a week or months to not be tacky and a dehydrator makes it worse. This is my recent experience with these. Feel free to expand or share your recent experience.

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I decant 2x, add a little lacquer thinner and shoot it through a Passche H with #3 tip @ 25-30 psi. Now it can be sprayed in coats counting  4-5 and not have the buildup of 1 or 2 coats from the can. It levels great and I've never had trouble dehydrating @110f. There are some great colors that when mixed with the white make some convincing pastels of the 1940-60 era cars factory finishes.

If decanting by the nozzle or spraying from the can, before you ever push the nozzle down heat the can up in hot water until when you shake the can it remains warm to the touch. Then shake with the rattler rattling ( I had cans with the rattler stuck in sludge and take a minute of shaking to just get it free and rattling. At that point the paint is not mixed yet) for a good solid 2-3 minutes. Your experience as well as finish if using the can directly, will love you for this.

Edited by Dave G.
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  • 1 month later...

Although this is an old thread I felt compelled to put my 2-cents worth in.

I've heard lots of horror stories from people using the 2X line of R-paints. Their problems usually started when they shot 2X Clear over the color coat(s), but sometimes even before the clear. After a lot of digging online I discovered that the primer is usually Enamel, the colored paints are usually Acrylic, and the clear is Enamel.

In many or most cases, if you put Enamel over an Acrylic you run the high risk of having paints that won't dry, or could take "forever" to dry. Even worse, and more often, you'll end up with the dreaded Wrinkled Mess nightmare, which requires stripping and starting over.

I've heard people tell them; they sprayed it too thick, didn't let the previous coat dry long enough, and other inaccurate stuff. The simple fact is,  with the 2X paints (and many, but not all, others), you just Can't put (their) Enamel over (their) Acrylic. What I feel made this such a major issue, for some, is the fact the cans aren't labeled as to what type of paint is inside. Even when I was researching what was what inside the cans, different answers came back, making it very difficult to find the correct answer.

Notes: Some people have been able to get away with using a 2X enamel over an 2X acrylic, but usually only after letting the acrylic dry for weeks or by using a dehydrator, AND by starting the enamel top coat(s) out with ultra thin layers, combined with very long drying periods. This method doesn't change the fact that most acrylics can't have enamel sprayed over them, because the chemicals in them just aren't compatible with each other, in many or most cases.  There are some exceptions, but the average model builder doesn't usually know what those exceptions are.

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