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Miller 122 Rear Dr Junior Eight Special


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Thanks ‘89 -

i do resemble those remarks - - but 3D printing provides me with some detail parts that i cant make ….   The Master Club bolts are all over this engine - and this set fr ANYZ  provided those hand knobs on the magneto - i aint making those!

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Paint re-do - the fairing under

the tail and the footwell fairing were sanded and re-painted - this time I dialed back the air pressure and used a little less thinner - the footwell fairing is feeling much better and the tail peice looks great - even without a  coat of primer …

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Miller was the first American race car builder to commit to small/light - made possible by change in the rule book eliminating the mechanic/scared stiff/passenger -

in Europe - i think you’d have to credit Bugatti - or perhaps the “Charlatans” that built the Pugeots - although these were Two man cars -

if you lowered the Frames and used smaller racing tires - the Millers Were the smallest front engined cars at Indy before the rear engine era - so they were decades ahead of their time ….

And then there was the Itala - thats another very interesting story …

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Once i re-spayed the seat - with a lighter shade of “leather” - i began to install the  rivets that secure the leather to the body - used .07 Master Club flat rivets - hard to judge scale size - .06’s - which are just over 1/2 sc inch - might be more scale accurate …

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8 hours ago, absmiami said:

Thinking - what if i thinned some of the dark br leather paint from the Model Master jar ?  Applied w a cloth applicator or a brush ? … or my finger ?? …

Many good options. Make-up applicators with the sponge tip work great. As for products I like brushing on Vallejo washes (waterbased) for contrast and sponging on Tamiya weathering masters for creating color change areas (ex seat wear or exhaust heat effect etc)

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Whilst pondering the finish of the seat - i took a morning to re-finish the tail - which had a small cavity at the base - and was a little porous -  - due to the master - which i made from a relatively soft sheet of Renshape - so i brushed on some Tamiya white bottle primer - which is thick enough to swim into most of the pores - and some CA for the cavity - sanded with some sanding sticks - i want To do as little as possible with the enamel color coat …

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