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The Official 3D Printing Discussion Thread


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Just now, Perspective Customs said:

I'm ready to dive in and buy a 3D printer. I'm looking at the Anycubic Mono X. On their website they ask if I want to include Airpure and Wash&Cure machine. Do I need either or both and what are they?

Also, what's a good type of resin to use to make parts and maybe bodies?

Thanks 

I have a mono x and the wash/cure station. I dont know what the airpure thing is but i manage fine without it. I would advise you to get a decent usb drive as the one that comes with the printer is garbage and can cause problems with prints. I'm using the anycubic grey uv resin but i'm planning to start using the waterwashable stuff soon as I'm going through a lot of alcohol for clean up. The resin is cheaper to buy in bulk on ebay but single bottles are usually about he same price everywhere. before you buy the printer check your computers processor, you want it to be at least 6 gig as anything smaller wont run the slicer programs and you cant print without it. I'm using lychee slicer but there are others that do the same job. Is it just car bodies you want to print or do you want to do anything bigger? the mono x will print up to a 1/22 car  bodies but anything bigger will be a fairly tight fit and trucks will be a struggle too.

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On 5/19/2023 at 5:49 PM, stitchdup said:

I have a mono x and the wash/cure station. I dont know what the airpure thing is but i manage fine without it. I would advise you to get a decent usb drive as the one that comes with the printer is garbage and can cause problems with prints. I'm using the anycubic grey uv resin but i'm planning to start using the waterwashable stuff soon as I'm going through a lot of alcohol for clean up. The resin is cheaper to buy in bulk on ebay but single bottles are usually about he same price everywhere. before you buy the printer check your computers processor, you want it to be at least 6 gig as anything smaller wont run the slicer programs and you cant print without it. I'm using lychee slicer but there are others that do the same job. Is it just car bodies you want to print or do you want to do anything bigger? the mono x will print up to a 1/22 car  bodies but anything bigger will be a fairly tight fit and trucks will be a struggle too.

Thanks Les. That's exactly the information I was looking for. I went ahead and ordered one with the Wash&Cure. I plan to print parts and maybe try my hand at printing car bodies, just no limos lol. Thanks again.

Edited by Perspective Customs
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  • 4 weeks later...
23 minutes ago, Perspective Customs said:

Can anyone speak to the durability of 3d printed bodies and parts? I've read that over time the resin can crack. If anyone has a 3d resin body that's a few years old, let us know how it's holding up.

Thanks 

I've got prints that are 3 or 4 years old. cant say i've seen any cracking apart from when i am too rough wth them using the dremel or too big of teeth on a saw. The thinner ones seem to warp but most have been ok

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15 hours ago, Perspective Customs said:

Can anyone speak to the durability of 3d printed bodies and parts? I've read that over time the resin can crack. If anyone has a 3d resin body that's a few years old, let us know how it's holding up.

Thanks 

Keep in mind that there are different resins just like there are different plastics. Not only that, resin formulas have changed and been improved over the years.
I think it would not be accurate to compare resins made 3 years ago to those produced today.

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Just one of several parts that I've been drawing up lately. Just need to add the brake line fittings and draw up the banjo spring that attaches to those pins to keep tension on the pads. I've always liked the looks of the Baer 6S calipers but I prefer calipers like the Brembos that I had on my Camaro where you can change the pads by pulling them out the top without removing the caliper. So, I created my own.

3D printing at home piqued my interest in the hobby again after being away for a few years. I have several projects that I'd shelved over the years because I'd just run out of ways to get where I wanted with it without CAD. Hopefully, I can pull a few of them back down and finish them. I work with Solidworks at my day job and picked up a hobbyist license for home. I bought a Anycubic M3 Premium about a month ago and haven't been able to set it up because I'm still waiting on part of my order. 😑PXL_20230619_044039471.thumb.jpg.986ff25f5b69606064027e3966252970.jpg

Edited by LOBBS
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  • 4 weeks later...
1 hour ago, CabDriver said:

I’m envious - I’d love a scanner!  I’ll be interested to see how you like it, and see some results!

I recently found out that the library near my work has a very nice 3D scanner that you can reserve time on by the hour with a library card. I live on the other side of the metro but they still allowed me to get one. I don't know that I have enough need to invest in one just yet but I do have a few projects that having one available will help with.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Bit of fun trivia, 3d prints look like bombs when they go through airport security as my sister recently found out on her way back from her disabled flying lessons with the RAF. The ironic part is it was a print of sir douglas bader a ww2 pilot famous for having replacement lags airdropped to him while a prisoner in ww2 that caused her to be taken aside. Its down to the internal supports and materials in the print so maybe leave early if flying with prints cos your going to get searched at every gate

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 8/16/2023 at 8:39 AM, Bucket T said:

I snagged a 3D printer for free from a co worker. Has a roll of filament too. Brand name is XYZ.  She said it was a few years old.  I thought for free I couldn't lose. Has anyone on here tried it? Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks

xyz1.jpg

xyz3.jpg

Just download a slicer file (I use Cura for my FDM printer) and a free file from Cults and take 'er for a spin and you'll know what you have.
Make sure you download a fairly simple 3D file that won't run for hours so you can monitor the print. Good luck.

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There are several different types of 3D  printers. Filament printers don't quite have fine enough resolution to print smooth car bodies  or small details.  for fine details and smoother surfaces you would need an SLA printer.  I'm not sure what your expectations are. It might be good enough for what you will be doing. And of course the price was unbeatable! :)

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On 8/17/2023 at 2:05 PM, peteski said:

There are several different types of 3D  printers. Filament printers don't quite have fine enough resolution to print smooth car bodies  or small details.  for fine details and smoother surfaces you would need an SLA printer.  I'm not sure what your expectations are. It might be good enough for what you will be doing. And of course the price was unbeatable! :)

True, I have a resin and an FDM. I use the resin for small parts but its a smaller printer and I don't do bodies on it. I have however done some bodies on my FDM using a .02mm tip. It takes a long time and still req's sanding after ward. I also do all of my chassis, chassis pans, and some interior panels. All below were done on my Creality V3 FDM printer.

IMG_20211230_131425931.jpg

8-Impala Interior Panels.jpg

IMG_20230515_084854539.jpg

IMG_20220110_153344918.jpg

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Yes, FDM printers have come a long way. Early ones produced objects which looked like they were made from wraps of heavy thread.  While I have not had any personal experience with the current FDM printers I imagine they do not handle deep horizontal overhangs very well.  SLA (resin) printers seem to handle that problem better (since they can print support structures for such features in the printed object.  Or can supports also be added when using FDM printers?.

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20 hours ago, peteski said:

Yes, FDM printers have come a long way. Early ones produced objects which looked like they were made from wraps of heavy thread.  While I have not had any personal experience with the current FDM printers I imagine they do not handle deep horizontal overhangs very well.  SLA (resin) printers seem to handle that problem better (since they can print support structures for such features in the printed object.  Or can supports also be added when using FDM printers?.

Yes, supports can be added to FDM but its not as easy as SLA printers. Cura slicer has an array of different supports that can be used, tho I haven't used any myself.
My FDM is about 3 years old so its old tech. The newer ones should be much better but I won't be buying one. I'll be upgrading my SLA next year for one with better res.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been going online getting a few parts such as zoomie headers, certain wheels and tires etc but there is a limited choice to what I want for what I'm building. Could someone please post the whole process of scanning something all the way through to printing. Is there another step I' missing to all this? just trying to piece it all together to understand it rather then being limited to what stl files I can find online...

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On 9/7/2023 at 11:41 AM, V8tiger said:

I've been going online getting a few parts such as zoomie headers, certain wheels and tires etc but there is a limited choice to what I want for what I'm building. Could someone please post the whole process of scanning something all the way through to printing. Is there another step I' missing to all this? just trying to piece it all together to understand it rather then being limited to what stl files I can find online...

I use a CAD program because I just design parts & pieces and not bodies. Also for me a $600 scanner isn't in the budget, and what I usually design there is nothing to scan.
I started with Tinkercad and quickly moved to Alibre Atom, tho Solidworks and Fusion 360 are the most popular and have a bigger community to help you.
What kinds of parts are you looking for?

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Thank you for the reply. I just want to make small parts that I need like specfic headers, certain vintage wheels, I've done that so far and it's turned out quite well, small stuff for now when I'm scratch building. I basically building drag cars and street rods for now. Once I get more experience I'd like to scan and print bodies but I'd have to get a larger printer. So I would start with an inexpensive but decent scanner, then go to something like sketch up then to a slicer to print? So that's the three steps? Thanks again...

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Does anybodyhave any tips for using the clear 3d resin? I got it to do light lenses and smaller parts as the layer lines could maybe work in my favour if i orient the parts correctly but i'm not sure where to start with the settings. I have a spare tank to use to reduce the risk of cross contaminating. Its the water washable stuff i have if that makesa difference. I figured asking here was the best place since we're all doing similar printing

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