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As Brian said, Isopropyl alcohol will work to clean resin parts.

There's also a water washable resin, which is what I use, and it can be rinsed with warm water. After curing, I'll usually give it a rinse with warm water and dish soap, and a good scrub with a toothbrush. Seems to do the trick. 

 

 

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The best way I've found to do 3d printed parts is to take a piece of masking tape and stick it to the part. If it sticks, its ready to paint. If the part won't stick to the tape, soak it about 5 minutes i IPA. Just because it's not sticky doesn't mean its ready to paint.

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1 hour ago, Oldriginal86 said:

I haven’t tried epoxy yet but I’m guessing it would offer a longer working time and the “hold” would be much stronger.

Yes, epoxy has a longer working time, and can be very strong. The longer the working time, the stronger the hold; e.g. 30 minute epoxy is stronger than 5 minute epoxy. However, CA can also be very strong, and there are CA glues out there with longer working times also. One advantage of CA is the variety of viscosities available, from extra thin with the consistency of paint thinner, to gap filling CA with a gel consistency. Generally speaking, the thicker the CA, the longer working time. A nice advantage of thin CA is its ability to wick into joint lines. Another advantage of CA the option to use a 'kicker' or accelerator, which when applied to any CA, will cause it to set up instantly. The drawbacks to CA are its tendency to be a bit messy and unknowingly make its way onto your fingers, where it will instantly weld itself to the next thing you touch. CA glue can also 'fog' or 'frost' clear and chrome parts, but there is a fog-free CA available, too, which is good for those parts.

Epoxy and CA are both excellent choices, and there will be situations where one will be preferable to the other. I use extra thin CA for almost all of my multi-media gluing, though most CA users employ a medium or thick CA. The well equipped model bench will contain numerous adhesives for various purposes. YMMV

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13 hours ago, Oldriginal86 said:

I have just scrubbed them in warm water and dish soap before priming. I’ve used enamel and acrylic paints on them. The only difference between resin and plastic is the use of CA glue. 

is it safe to use Tamiya fine white primer before painting with enamel?  I primer every thing..

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If the 3D part is sticky then it wasn’t completely cured.   Put the part in strong sunlight for a couple of hours.   Turn it over and do it again.   The resin should harden up.   If you have one of those lights that are used to harden fingernail polish then use that.   A few minutes under the light should harden it up.  Fully cured resin should be hard and dry like styrene.    I haven’t had any paint issues on parts I cure in UV light.     I mostly use Tamiya and Vallejo paint and it comes out fine.

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3 hours ago, slusher said:

is it safe to use Tamiya fine white primer before painting with enamel?  I primer every thing..

The primer is safe to use under enamel. Any glue that is used on painted parts is only as strong as the paint bond is. I have started putting tiny score marks with the tip of a sharp #11 blade on the mating surfaces before using  CA. Especially on very tiny parts that I can’t pin. I think it gives the glue something to hang onto. 

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