customline Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 (edited) Look at this face Now look at this one OK, my problem with the AMT '41 Plymouth, one of my all-time favorite kits, is the contour of the nose. In my humble opinion, they coulda done a better job with it. Why they molded the grille opening as a separate panel is a mystery to me. I'm sure there was a good reason. Now, after decades of re-issues, the front panel needs some coaxing to fit in place properly. The top seam does not exist on the 1:1 so it needs to be disappeared; that only gets you part way there. The transition of the fender top to the vertical "face" is squared off but the 1:1 has a continuous curve- its the primary design element. The contour of the fender/grille/ hood is everything. It flows. I want to build this one as a stock example so, in order to satisfy my somewhat anal desire for authenticity, I need to re-contour the fenders to look more like the 1:1 so I made a small batch of sprue goo and let it sit covered overnight. Then I filled the back-side of the grille panel-to-fenders seam and let it dry for a day and a half. The next step is simply sanding a new contour. Its probably not possible to get it completely accurate but, hopefully, I can get it closer than AMT did. In the photos below I have started to re-contour the left side and I'm proceeding cautiously. I'm not sure what I can do about the molded fender seam where it passes by the headlights. It's too square and the molded-in "seam" makes it obvious. I may remove the seam and replace it after re-contouring that area, to give the seam a more accurate curve. The headlight may need to be modified as well. If you have this kit in queue, you may want to study photos of 1:1s and compare the kit body. Thanks for looking and, as always....comments, criticism, and vulgar language is always welcome. Edited January 24 by customline Added text 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrenchr Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 I plan to build one as a gasser and your nose job might just be the inspiration I need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 nice looking forward too see what you build build your Plymouth.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragcarz Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 Great observation, I’ll be following! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David G. Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 Hi Jim. I certainly agree with you on the Plymouth's nose casting issue and I'm glad to see that you're working to correct it. Many builders, for whatever reason just don't. I built one of these a few years ago and this was probably the biggest challenge I had in doing so. The other was getting the body / interior assembly to fit properly on the chassis. I could get either the front or rear to fit all the way down but never both at the same time. It kind of see-sawed back and forth. I eventually just split the difference. If you're interested in all the gory details, here's a link to the WIP. In the end it came out pretty good. May you have the best of luck with yours. David G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zippi Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 Nice start on the ole 41 Plymouth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
customline Posted January 24 Author Share Posted January 24 6 hours ago, wrenchr said: I plan to build one as a gasser and your nose job might just be the inspiration I need. This kit is a great start for a gasser. I just wish AMT had seen fit to treat it like it really mattered. It could have been really great if they had had a little vision. Instead, they try to sell it to Coke collectors 😞. Here's my gasser: 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
customline Posted January 24 Author Share Posted January 24 3 hours ago, slusher said: nice looking forward too see what you build build your Plymouth.. I don't want to disappoint you, Carl, but I may not do much beyond the nose mod. The rest of the build will likely be shelved for a while until I can get caught up with all my other unfinished projects. It's just a "normal" build after the nose job anyway, but I had to do it just to see if I could. Sometimes these things don't go where I want them to 💩. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
customline Posted January 24 Author Share Posted January 24 2 hours ago, David G. said: Hi Jim. I certainly agree with you on the Plymouth's nose casting issue and I'm glad to see that you're working to correct it. Many builders, for whatever reason just don't. I built one of these a few years ago and this was probably the biggest challenge I had in doing so. The other was getting the body / interior assembly to fit properly on the chassis. I could get either the front or rear to fit all the way down but never both at the same time. It kind of see-sawed back and forth. I eventually just split the difference. If you're interested in all the gory details, here's a link to the WIP. In the end it came out pretty good. May you have the best of luck with yours. David G. I looked at your WIP, David. Super-nice work and you have given me the answer for the fender welt problem. Beading wire is a great way to replace the welt. I love what you did with the wheels, too. To anyone reading this: look at David's WIP. David, the first thing I did was install the grille panel and, in doing so, found I had to get one side glued tightly first and then pull the fenders together to get the other side connected tightly. The body I have seemed a bit out of shape (the age factor). I didn't have the situation that you had but I will still have to replace the welt after I get the area on the inside of the headlights re-shaped. Your method worked really well and I intend to use it. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
customline Posted January 24 Author Share Posted January 24 I just noticed the kit headlight bezels seem a bit "thick" compared to the 1:1. Any thoughts? 🤔...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwc43 Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 18 minutes ago, customline said: I just noticed the kit headlight bezels seem a bit "thick" compared to the 1:1. Any thoughts? 🤔...... Looks like you could just sand them down from the backside to make them thinner. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobss396 Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 No clue why AMT chose the '41, as the '40 was a far better looking car, at least to me. Kudos to anyone who tackles one and does it up right. Note: there are none of these in my hoard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 12 hours ago, customline said: ...OK, my problem with the AMT '41 Plymouth, one of my all-time favorite kits, is the contour of the nose. In my humble opinion, they coulda done a better job with it. Why they molded the grille opening as a separate panel is a mystery to me. I'm sure there was a good reason. Simply to accommodate the reality of tooling-design for injection molding. The "tuck-under" of the nose panel, and the carve-outs for the grille, could not have been formed in one piece with the body without resorting to more expensive sliding die elements, and possibly straightening the lower front edge of the body so it would come out of the tool. Unfortunately, some tooling designers have indeed taken the expedient route, straightening the lower edge, making a "flat face", and the model's finished appearance suffers unless it's corrected by the builder...usually beyond the skill set or interest level of the typical modeler. Be glad they did it the way they did, 'cause you've about got it beat, and it's going to look great. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
customline Posted January 25 Author Share Posted January 25 3 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said: Simply to accommodate the reality of tooling-design for injection molding. The "tuck-under" of the nose panel, and the carve-outs for the grille, could not have been formed in one piece with the body without resorting to more expensive sliding die elements, and possibly straightening the lower front edge of the body so it would come out of the tool. Unfortunately, some tooling designers have indeed taken the expedient route, straightening the lower edge, making a "flat face", and the model's finished appearance suffers unless it's corrected by the builder...usually beyond the skill set or interest level of the typical modeler. Be glad they did it the way they did, 'cause you've about got it beat, and it's going to look great. Ace, I'm glad you checked in on this one. Your input is always needed on stuff like this. Yeah, I understand that how the tooling is designed for any particular kit is subject to all sorts of limitations (I did say "I'm sure there was a good reason" 😁) I don't have it beat yet but it's on a long, bumpy, pot-hole perforated, deep ditches on both sides with no guard rails and no freaking street lights.....road to a beat. Thanks for your interest and input, Bill, I appreciate it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
customline Posted January 25 Author Share Posted January 25 5 hours ago, dwc43 said: Looks like you could just sand them down from the backside to make them thinner. Yes, with one little problem. The recess of the bucket sticks out the backside. It's necessarily some careful knife work because it's almost impossible to sand. My fingers can't seem to hold on to one of these bezels so the micro is a non-starter. I built 2 of these and had not, until now, known there was a L and a R headlight bezel ☺️. Gotta play with it. Luckily, I have a couple more of these kits if I muck it up. (Hell, They both look the same, don't they?) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milo1303s Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 It's molded in yellow yuk !!! lol!! 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
customline Posted January 25 Author Share Posted January 25 4 hours ago, bobss396 said: No clue why AMT chose the '41, as the '40 was a far better looking car, at least to me. Kudos to anyone who tackles one and does it up right. Note: there are none of these in my hoard. Ahhhhhh......I totally agree! But my heart still belongs to the '39 🥰. Seriously, the '40 is a handsome face, for sure, and there's no beading on the skirts. Shoulda kept it that way. The '40 has a folding hood, too. Cool, if you want to leave the sides out and show off that boat mooring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 1 hour ago, milo1303s said: It's molded in yellow yuk !!! lol!! Most of mine are molded in salmon. Double yuk, but a reasonably period-correct color. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobss396 Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 1 hour ago, customline said: Ahhhhhh......I totally agree! But my heart still belongs to the '39 🥰. Seriously, the '40 is a handsome face, for sure, and there's no beading on the skirts. Shoulda kept it that way. The '40 has a folding hood, too. Cool, if you want to leave the sides out and show off that boat mooring. The 39 had great headlights too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
customline Posted January 25 Author Share Posted January 25 31 minutes ago, bobss396 said: The 39 had great headlights too. Yes they did unless they were converted to sealed beamers. 🫤 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
customline Posted January 25 Author Share Posted January 25 I grooved out the fender welt on the left side with a PE saw, mostly, and followed with my BMF scribing tool in preparation for installation of a new welt bead after further reshaping near the headlight. (THANK YOU, DAVID G) I think I have that side pretty well done so I glued down a length of .022 solder. It's a bit big but I will reduce its height later on. I tried some beading wire which was smaller and stiffer but it was too hard for me to handle. The solder was much easier to work with. I also played with the headlight to get a more realistic look. Still more to be done there. Thanks for the company. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dust collectors Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 4 hours ago, milo1303s said: It's molded in yellow yuk !!! lol!! Unpopular opinion but I like kits molded in certain colors, Light blue and yellow in particular haha. Makes the body work portion take longer for sure but looks cooler as the model comes together. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
customline Posted January 25 Author Share Posted January 25 8 hours ago, dust collectors said: Unpopular opinion but I like kits molded in certain colors, Light blue and yellow in particular haha. Makes the body work portion take longer for sure but looks cooler as the model comes together. You know what? I think you may have something there, Jeff 🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwc43 Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 13 hours ago, customline said: Yes, with one little problem. The recess of the bucket sticks out the backside. It's necessarily some careful knife work because it's almost impossible to sand. My fingers can't seem to hold on to one of these bezels so the micro is a non-starter. I built 2 of these and had not, until now, known there was a L and a R headlight bezel ☺️. Gotta play with it. Luckily, I have a couple more of these kits if I muck it up. (Hell, They both look the same, don't they?) Yeah, they look the same. I know how you can do it. You need a small plastic or metal tube that will slip over the back of the bucket. I forgot how far that bucket sticks out. And you can glue a piece of rough grit sandpaper to the tube. Just punch out the hole in the paper for the bucket to stick through. Then just sit it on the part you want sanded and spin the tube. Might take several pieces of sandpaper glued onto the tube, but I think that might work for you. Something to try I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
customline Posted January 25 Author Share Posted January 25 (edited) 1 hour ago, dwc43 said: Yeah, they look the same. I know how you can do it. You need a small plastic or metal tube that will slip over the back of the bucket. I forgot how far that bucket sticks out. And you can glue a piece of rough grit sandpaper to the tube. Just punch out the hole in the paper for the bucket to stick through. Then just sit it on the part you want sanded and spin the tube. Might take several pieces of sandpaper glued onto the tube, but I think that might work for you. Something to try I guess. The backside of the bezel is not flat. It is curved. My desire is to reduce the thickness of the headlight door and lower it so the parking/turn signal appendage gets closer to the top of the fender and not stick up above it. It's not really clear in the photos but not from lack of trying. Below: First photo - unaltered right side... second photo- lowered and thinned left side (no mods on the right side yet)... third photo - 1:1. You can see the AMT part is poorly engraved and a bit out of scale. Thanks for your interest, DW. Edited January 25 by customline 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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