StevenGuthmiller Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 9 minutes ago, peteski said: Steve, If you bothered to read my several earlier posts you will see that I offered plenty of advice. You might not like or agree with it, but it is advice. Like I said, I use 5-minute epoxy in my modeling and household repairs, so I do have a clue about what I'm talking about. My personal experience with those slippery plastics we are dealing with in this thread, and 5-minute epoxy is that it doesn't create a usable bond. Period, End of advice. That is the "because". If you wish, I can also post some photos of the 5-minute epoxies I have in my adhesive's arsenal. I don't have the JB Weld brand, so as I mentioned, if it works for bonding those hard to bond plastics, it must be a super-adhesive. But as you said, we are all just blowing smoke since this is all just experiences, suggestions, and speculations. But it is fun! I did read the entire thread Peter.....numerous times. And I just read through all of your responses again. I didn't see any solutions offered at all. Just a number of statements about how paint and glues won't adhere to various plastics. Sure, I suppose that you might call that "advice", but it's not particularly productive when the OP is looking for solutions to his problem, and not just proclamations of it's impossibility. I took a little time to experiment and then post some videos of how that experiment went to try to help Gary with his issue. As we still are not certain exactly what type of plastic that we're dealing with, (although Gary did mention the type of plastic used in Super Glue tubes, which as far as I know is pretty close to the plastic used in the paint cup lids in my video) all that we can do is either offer other solutions, continue the experiment with every type of plastic known to man until we happen upon the right one, or just admit that we don't know. I feel pretty good about my contribution, and believe that I've done my part. As far as the JB Weld product goes, I don't own the brand, or any stock in the company, so I have no interest in promoting it other than to say that to date, it's met my expectations with everything I've thrown at it so far. You can take that however you please. Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteski Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 11 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said: I didn't see any solutions offered at all. Just a number of statements about how paint and glues won't adhere to various plastics. Sure, I suppose that you might call that "advice", but it's not particularly productive when the OP is looking for solutions to his problem, and not just proclamations of it's impossibility. Well, I mentioned to make a RTV rubber casting and cast the parts in urethane resin (because from what I can see, no adhesive will likely be reliable enough, and paint will likely not stick well to it either). The OP actually replied that he might give that a try. Seems like a productive advice to me. Sometimes unconventional solutions are good too. At this point I am tired of this. You are right Steve: 5-minute epoxy is very good and sound advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 (edited) 34 minutes ago, peteski said: Well, I mentioned to make a RTV rubber casting and cast the parts in urethane resin (because from what I can see, no adhesive will likely be reliable enough, and paint will likely not stick well to it either). The OP actually replied that he might give that a try. Seems like a productive advice to me. Sometimes unconventional solutions are good too. I'll grant you that. 34 minutes ago, peteski said: At this point I am tired of this. You are right Steve: 5-minute epoxy is very good and sound advice Well, in the end it might not be the ultimate solution, but at this juncture I have yet to see any evidence that it will not work for Gary's situation. I've certainly given it the old college try to demonstrate that it "may" be a viable solution, even though the idea has met with pretty much nothing but outright rejection......with nothing to back that idea up I might add. I certainly can't see why it wouldn't be worth further investigation. I believe that the epoxy performed more than adequately in the examples that I posted in the videos. Steve Edited March 4 by StevenGuthmiller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 49 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said: even though the idea has met with pretty much nothing but outright rejection......with nothing to back that idea up I might add. Really? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 (edited) 1 hour ago, Ace-Garageguy said: Really? In regards to this particular epoxy, yes. It was essentially dismissed as a loser, and rejected as just another typical epoxy pretty much from the start. Steve Edited March 4 by StevenGuthmiller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugatti Fan Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 Guys, I can see how this conversation is going. We all have our favourite adhesives that we swear by for whatever reason. So please, it might be best at this point to just agree to differ ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 6 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said: Guys, I can see how this conversation is going. We all have our favourite adhesives that we swear by for whatever reason. So please, it might be best at this point to just agree to differ ? It has nothing to do with our "favorite adhesives". It's just a matter of finding a solution that will work for the OP. If that happens to be "melted cheese" as Bill said, so be it. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOBLNG Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 Casting the parts would be the best solution although not economical. I would think 5 minute epoxy would work as good as anything for the original parts. I would pin the pieces and drill some holes for the epoxy to key into. It’s up to the OP to experiment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugatti Fan Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 (edited) Steve, I think you missed the real point of my last post that was actually about the thread starting to become a little argumentative and stop it from getting a bit over heated. With regard to the term I used 'favourite adhesives' we all know what works for us individually. The OP has had a number of suggestions made on this thread that might prove useful from each of our own personal experiences. Edited March 5 by Bugatti Fan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldcarfan Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 On 3/3/2024 at 1:53 PM, Ace-Garageguy said: I use an extremely high performance epoxy made for aviation use that costs in the neighborhood of $400 per gallon, which I usually have in stock after it's gone out of date, and cannot be used on aircraft safely...but it's still WAY stronger than any readily available adhesive in the DIY marketplace. Since I started using that method many years ago, I've had zero bond-line failures or cracks, even after aggressive sculptural shaping of "bondo" or epoxy/microballoon fillers over the bond lines. HOWEVER...even that stuff simply will not stick to any "low surface energy" plastics like PP or PE, which the OP's material very obviously is at this point. I like the idea of using fine fiberglass cloth to support things. I have a roll of that somewhere. Obviously I don't have access to the adhesive you do, but I used the cloth one time with resin to make a belly tank. The cloth has just enough flex to go down smoothly over the plug I carved. We are straying from the subject as some have said. I remember as a kid having a toy car that advertised it was made out of Hi-Impact plastic and it looks like this is the same sort of thing. The only thing that seems to work is heat welding with a soldering iron. I originally wrote the question hoping to find some glue I missed. No adhesives I've tried work and that is that as far as I can tell. I'll try making resin copies of pieces I want to use. Appreciate the ideas! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 (edited) 24 minutes ago, oldcarfan said: I like the idea of using fine fiberglass cloth to support things. I have a roll of that somewhere. Obviously I don't have access to the adhesive you do, but I used the cloth one time with resin to make a belly tank. The cloth has just enough flex to go down smoothly over the plug I carved. 30-minute epoxy used for RC aircraft is adequate for laminating static model car parts. The ultra-fine glass cloth is often used for RC planes too. We are straying from the subject as some have said. I remember as a kid having a toy car that advertised it was made out of Hi-Impact plastic and it looks like this is the same sort of thing. The only thing that seems to work is heat welding with a soldering iron. I originally wrote the question hoping to find some glue I missed. No adhesives I've tried work and that is that as far as I can tell. I'll try making resin copies of pieces I want to use. Appreciate the ideas! "Hi-impact plastic" was a term that usually referred to toughened polystyrene. Early formulations were quite brittle. ABS and the trade-named Cycolac were still tougher styrene formulations. In the real world, there are heat-welding tools used to fix rips and tears in low-surface-energy plastic car panels and bumpers, as structural bonds never hold. The specially engineered adhesives, fillers, and adhesion-promoters are generally used over the "welded" area, to bring the appearance of the surface back up to snuff. Edited March 5 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorLarry Posted Wednesday at 11:53 PM Share Posted Wednesday at 11:53 PM Just a general question about using epoxy, Steve. After you mix it, do you apply it with toothpicks and do you let it tack for a minute before assembly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted Thursday at 02:28 AM Share Posted Thursday at 02:28 AM 2 hours ago, DoctorLarry said: Just a general question about using epoxy, Steve. After you mix it, do you apply it with toothpicks and do you let it tack for a minute before assembly? Generally yes. The particular epoxy that I use can sit for at least 5 minutes before it begins to tack up. Depending on the particular assembly that needs to be performed, I’ll either apply the glue and then immediately mate the parts if it’s a pretty secure connection, followed by a check after about 10 minutes to be certain that the positioning is correct, or else I’ll mix the glue, apply it to one of the surfaces to be mated, and then let it sit for 5 minutes or so, after which I’ll check for tackiness. If the glue is sufficiently tacky to hold the part securely in position without sliding around, then I’ll assemble the parts, and again, return probably ten minutes later to verify that it’s still in position. I’ll usually continue to make periodic positioning checks until the remaining glue on the mixing card is completely hardened, which probably takes about 15 or 20 minutes. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorLarry Posted Thursday at 12:15 PM Share Posted Thursday at 12:15 PM Thanks! I'm having a hard time getting acetate windows glued in without making a total mess of things. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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