Matt Bacon Posted June 25 Posted June 25 (edited) I quite often find inspiration for what to pull out of the stash in the current edition of Octane, and this is the latest in a long-ish line. A pretty unusual NSX-R built to order for a wealthy expat Brit who worked in Japan at the time. It's the full NSX-R spec in a slightly stealth package with standard headlights, no extra scoops, a single color body and roof in a tasteful pearl Brooklands (aka Charlotte) Green, and the interior trimmed in black alcantara. The wheels are a bit more in your face, mind you... This is another Frankenbuild, but this time it's 90% Tamiya with just a few parts stolen from a Fujimi NSX-R kit that's gathering dust. I think the Tamiya is a much better and more detailed kit overall, so all I've stolen from the other box are the Recaro seats, gear shift lever and steering wheel, and the wheels. They aren't quite right, but they have seven thin spokes and look a lot more like the prototype than the ones in the Tamiya kit. I thought I might be able to find something closer, but 16" seven-spoke "Custom Order Programme Step Three" Enkeis don't seem to feature in any aftermarket wheelset I can find from the usual makers and vendors... So far, all I've done is the tedious process of converting Fujimi-fit wheels to Tamiya-fit spindles. The Tamiya body shell is lovely and clean, though, with no visible parting lines at all... best, M. Edited June 25 by Matt Bacon 7
Rich Chernosky Posted June 25 Posted June 25 Matt...that color on the full size car is very striking. Are you planning on replicating that or do you have something else in mind. For me, sometimes I find a color or paint that really grabs my attention then dig into the stash to find something suitable to use it on. That's just me. 1
Matt Bacon Posted June 25 Author Posted June 25 1 minute ago, Rich Chernosky said: Are you planning on replicating that or do you have something else in mind. Thanks, Rich... that color was what sealed the deal, so I have a bottle of color-matched Zero Paints Honda G70P on its way to me as I write... best, M.
lordairgtar Posted June 25 Posted June 25 A little putty and filing work will help your wheel sets look closer to the prototype. 2
Matt Bacon Posted June 26 Author Posted June 26 14 hours ago, lordairgtar said: A little putty and filing work will help your wheel sets look closer to the prototype. I've had a quick look, and I think it's rather more work than it seems at first glance, and the opportunities to mess it up are significant: you have to do 28 spokes exactly the same. Just filling the gap between the raised parts of each spoke will result in a very chunky appearance and an odd looking centre. What you really need to do is remove the raised ridges, which are actually made up of a V-shape which runs down one spoke and up the one next door, smooth the curve of the well around the centre cap, and readjust the part where each spoke meets the rim. If I had a spare set of wheels, I might give it a try, but since I don't, I've decided the balance between risk of stuffing the whole project and absolute accuracy comes down in favor of leaving them as they are! I'll have a look in some of my other 90s JDM kits and see if any have tuner rims that are closer, but if not I'll plough on with what I've got now. best, M.
kelson Posted June 26 Posted June 26 That exterior color is beautiful!.. as is the design of the car that's aged very well!. 1
slusher Posted June 27 Posted June 27 3 hours ago, kelson said: That exterior color is beautiful!.. as is the design of the car that's aged very well!. I totally agree! 1
Vessey Posted June 27 Posted June 27 I like the color in your inspiration photo, looking forward to seeing it on the model. I painted this kit green as well when I built it. For the wheels, the factory Civic EK9 wheels look similar, but they are smaller. I believe the ZoomOn NSX-R detail kit has the correct wheels, you could ask if they would sell them separately. I also found a file on Cults3d if you have a way to 3D print them. 1
Matt Bacon Posted June 28 Author Posted June 28 Sections 1 and 2 of the instructions completed! The engine is very typical Tamiya: only 6 parts, but with very complex painting instructions, enhanced by the many detail photos of the real thing that are available online. Similarly, the exhaust is only three parts, but this time the "all-over chrome" painting directions are a bit simplistic, especially for an NSX-R... The single-piece chassis is also nicely detailed with a little careful painting. Quick mockup suggests it will fit together nicely. From the other side.... One of the reasons it's worth spending a bit of time on the engine. The NSX-R has a mesh panel over the engine, whereas the NSX has a solid trimmed "parcel shelf." On the left, the Fujimi part, trimmed and extended to match the size and shape of the Tamiya part on the right. This should mean that the engine is visible even with cover closed, but also the Tamiya rear window is hinged and can open, so it's possible to expose the engine to full view... best, M. 3
oldcarfan Posted June 29 Posted June 29 That's a cool project! Looking forward to seeing it when it's done. 1
iamsuperdan Posted June 29 Posted June 29 If you have access to a 3d printer... https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/1-24-16x7-17x8-5-enkei-wheels-set-for-nsx-na1-type-r https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/1-24-scale-18-honda-nsx-r-oem-style-wheels I've always liked how the original NSX looks. Not that exciting to drive though. 1
Matt Bacon Posted June 29 Author Posted June 29 5 hours ago, iamsuperdan said: If you have access to a 3d printer. Sadly, I don’t… best, M.
Matt Bacon Posted July 4 Author Posted July 4 It was too hot to hit the bench early last week, and work got in the way the second half, but things are moving again now... Again, very typical Tamiya... that perfectly-fitting lower subframe with wishbones and control arms is one crisply molded piece with slightly complex painting instructions... The back end looks properly busy, though. "Kevlar" backed seats. You're probably thinking "they look pretty crude..." ...but given that this is what you can see (BEFORE the body goes on), perhaps I might be excused..? 😜 best, M. 2
Matt Bacon Posted July 9 Author Posted July 9 The suspension is finished. Like the rear, the front assembly is primarily two big parts, a main frame with upper wishbones and the lower frame. Very nicely detailed and molded, though. Engine in place for a test. It looks reasonable through the mesh, but I think I'll add a few wires and hoses to busy up the space at the left between the heads and the airbox/fluid reservoir parts. Now I need to make some progress on the body. best, M. 1
Matt Bacon Posted July 9 Author Posted July 9 Quick test fit with the wheels: Well, they certainly fill the arches. Arguably a bit too much, but I think that might be the price for using the Fujimi wheels, which are probably "inch-up", on the Tamiya kit. best, M.
Matt Bacon Posted July 11 Author Posted July 11 This color is rather hard to photograph, especially in the velvet texture of the Zero basecoat. Anyone who's used them will also know how much the appearance of Zero Paints colors changes when you apply the clearcoat. I'm not sure when I'll get to do the clearcoat. As a two part mix that actually cures rather than just drying, it's very sensitive to heat. Your working time drops rapidly the hotter it is, and the last thing I want is to be trying to apply the final wet coat when the mix has started to cure (that way you get orange peel, for sure). The workshop is about 34 degrees C at the moment... 😜 best, M. 2
JollySipper Posted July 12 Posted July 12 I can't wait to see how it looks with the clear! I'm working on the same basic Tamiya kit, it's very pleasant to work on and pretty straight-forward........... This all looks great! 1
Matt Bacon Posted July 13 Author Posted July 13 I managed to get the clear coat on in the cool of yesterday evening... I though outdoors in diffuse sunlight was probably my best shot at capturing the color accurately. Even I am amazed by how much the clearcoat brings the paint to life, and subtly swings the color to a more blue-green, as it should be. If you compare these, especially the last one, to the picture of the real thing at the top of the thread, I think we'd all agree that Steve has done a pretty good job of matching the color! best, M. 3
Matt Bacon Posted July 16 Author Posted July 16 Apologies for muckiness. It doesn't half pick up grease and dust when you're wrestling the glass into the body, and the whole thing together for a test fit... The rear screen and engine cover does open as it should and close tight, which I call a result. Of course, it doesn't _stay_ open on its own, but I'll figure out some solution. Quick test on the chassis. That rear light panel was a complete nightmare to paint. I've never had any luck spraying the Tamiya clear colors... I just can't get the consistency right. So it's a lot of coats of thinned brushed paint. It looks ropey if you hold it up to the light directly, but in situ it's OK. Time to crack on and complete the black, black and more black interior... best, M.
Matt Bacon Posted August 6 Author Posted August 6 Two weeks holiday and a welcome (I think...) return to the world of full-time work put progress with this on the back burner, but I've managed to get back to the bench the last couple of evenings. The cockpit is about five shades of black and that's it. Seats, steering wheel and gear shift are from the Fujimi kit. The seats are too narrow, but I don't have any better-proportioned Recaros and I just want to get the build finished so no hunting down replacements or major surgery for me. The seat belts do actually work like that -- they are regular street belt hardware that passes through a couple of holes in the Kevlar seat pan. The dashboard combines the angry red dials with yellow needles from the Fujimi dash applied over the carbon fibre panel from the Tamiya, which I suspect was a bespoke choice made by the original buyer. This is all you or I will ever see of it after today; it's completely hooded and invisible in the normal orientation. You could keep plumbing the engine for days: I just wanted enough that it looked a bit busier through the mesh cover under the rear glass most of the time, and would stand up to opening up the cover on special occasions. As you can see, most of the hoses and wires just trail off out of view -- I certainly don't have the reference to try and connect up the real cooling, fuelling, oiling and electrical components to one another in the right places, nor the patience. The engine bay opening is semi-circle from the firewall to the rear edge of the upper engine cover at it's deepest and about as wide as the gap between the wheel wells at its widest, so you can imagine how much of this view you'll actually be able to see one the engine is inside the body.... Once the cockpit has stuck firmly into place on the chassis (hence that lonely bit of masking tape corralling a recalcitrant pin into bonding) it will be time to put the chassis inside the body, and see if anything falls off... best, M. 3
Matt Bacon Posted Saturday at 08:47 PM Author Posted Saturday at 08:47 PM OK, you may be questioning my sanity on the wiring and plumbing, but it's there, honest... Last details and the final few decals and it will be done... at last! best, M. 3
beeRS Posted Sunday at 08:48 AM Posted Sunday at 08:48 AM Very nicely done 👍🏼. It’s a shame so much of the lovely engine detail is hidden. 1
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