IN THE BUFF

[customline]

I've been using the Novus fine scratch remover for years (and I'm slow to change) but would appreciate some info on final rub-out products.  Something to remove the ones that the Novus leaves behind.

[StevenGuthmiller]

I use Turtle Wax “Scratch and Swirl Remover”.

 

 

Steve

[Mike 1017]

I use Maguires Scratch X

[Beans]

+1 for Maguires

[Dave G.]

I use Formula 1 Scratch Out scratch and swirl remover. Sometimes when the paint went down already quite glossy that's all I use. Then a bees wax formula.

Edited Tuesday at 04:03 PM by Dave G.

[espo]

I have been pleased with the results using Tamiya Polishing Compound, Finish. Others are Mequiar's Plastx Cleaner & Polish as well as Nu Finish Scratch Doctor.  

[customline]

23 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I use Turtle Wax “Scratch and Swirl Remover”.

 

 

Steve

 

12 hours ago, Mike 1017 said:

I use Maguires Scratch X

 

11 hours ago, Beans said:

+1 for Maguires

 

9 hours ago, Dave G. said:

I use Formula 1 Scratch Out scratch and swirl remover. Sometimes when the paint went down already quite glossy that's all I use. Then a bees wax formula.

I'd like to hear more about the bees wax, Dave (unless it's a secret formula, of course)

8 hours ago, espo said:

I have been pleased with the results using Tamiya Polishing Compound, Finish. Others are Mequiar's Plastx Cleaner & Polish as well as Nu Finish Scratch Doctor.  

I appreciate it, gents. I now have a nice "short list". 

[Dave G.]

"I'd like to hear more about the bees wax, Dave (unless it's a secret formula, of course)" 

No, it's actually store bought. It's a cleaning, polishing wax made for furniture finishes. I like it a lot. Plus one bottle will last two or more lifetimes for how much we use on models. It's my final step. Some folks like a hard wax but I like this. It works on acrylics and lacquer. Probably enamel as well, I just tend to not need to polish enamels..

The name is Howard Feed N Wax. The feed signifies penetrating nourishing for all wood finishes. To which lacquer is a common finish for wood. Works great for me.

Edited Wednesday at 12:44 PM by Dave G.

[NOBLNG]

On 7/7/2025 at 8:45 PM, customline said:

I've been using the Novus fine scratch remover for years (and I'm slow to change) but would appreciate some info on final rub-out products.  Something to remove the ones that the Novus leaves behind.

I was hesitant to open this thread….thought there might be a pic of you sitting at your model bench.😬 I have only used Tamiya Coarse, Fine and Finishing with mediocre results mostly due to my lack of patience.

[customline]

5 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

I was hesitant to open this thread….thought there might be a pic of you sitting at your model bench.😬 I have only used Tamiya Coarse, Fine and Finishing with mediocre results mostly due to my lack of patience.

And yet you opened it! 🤣  wasn't that a great idea?

Hey...I totally understand. Patience is not something I'm known for. I'm leaning towards lighter colors now so I don't see the swirlies as easily but I shall purchase the McGuire's version today. 

[customline]

9 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

I was hesitant to open this thread….thought there might be a pic of you sitting at your model bench.😬 I have only used Tamiya Coarse, Fine and Finishing with mediocre results mostly due to my lack of patience.

I tried the "Scratch X,"  figuring McGuire's is top shelf (it was, 40 years ago 🥴), so why not start at the top?  I tried it on the '53 roof with good but not great results. I can't see any change, scratch wise,  but it is noticeably glossier.  That's a win, 🤓 ain't it?  Maybe I should polish it several more times...🤔

Edited Wednesday at 11:41 PM by customline

[StevenGuthmiller]

13 minutes ago, customline said:

I tried the "Scratch X,"  figuring McGuire's is top shelf (it was, 40 years ago 🥴), so why not start at the top?  I tried it on the '53 roof with good but not great results. I can't see any change, scratch wise,  but it is noticeably glossier.  That's a win, 🤓 ain't it?  Maybe I should polish it several more times...🤔

If you’re having issues with not being able to remove scratches, you might want to go back and revisit the entire polishing process.

Are you starting with too course of a grit?

Are you utilizing every grit all of the way to the finest without skipping any?

Are you sufficiently utilizing each grit to it’s full measure?

Once finished with the pads or paper, are you also using the Novus polish in succession? (Heavy and fine scratch remover)

The scratch and swirl remover that I use has very little abrasive ability, so it serves only to enhance the luster and remove very fine surface anomalies.

It’s not really going to remedy any problems of any real depth.

Just thinking out loud. 😊

 

 

 

Steve

[customline]

12 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

If you’re having issues with not being able to remove scratches, you might want to go back and revisit the entire polishing process.

Are you starting with too course of a grit?

Are you utilizing every grit all of the way to the finest without skipping any?

Are you sufficiently utilizing each grit to it’s full measure?

Once finished with the pads or paper, are you also using the Novus polish in succession? (Heavy and fine scratch remover)

The scratch and swirl remover that I use has very little abrasive ability, so it serves only to enhance the luster and remove very fine surface anomalies.

It’s not really going to remedy any problems of any real depth.

Just thinking out loud. 😊

 

 

 

Steve

In the case of orange peel, I start wet with 2000 and a drop of Dawn. Then, after I knock down the OP till its only faint. I follow with 3200 until I see no more of the OP traces.  Then 3600, 4000, etc.  It could be I'm not doing enough on the middle grits, Steve, but I stopped using the Novus heavy scratch remover. I get worried about my nice paint job getting too thin. That stuff seems too coarse. Lots of color comes off on the rag. 

[peteski]

Orange peel surface is caused by very bumpy paint surface.  To make it smooth, those bumps have to be removed until the paint surface is even with the thinnest areas of the paint layer. That is why you will see lots of paint being removed.  I would recommend practicing spraying or airbrushing in a way minimizing orange peel.  I manage to paint my models in a way no sanding/polishing/buffing is needed. It is doable.

Like this  one:

[StevenGuthmiller]

4 hours ago, customline said:

In the case of orange peel, I start wet with 2000 and a drop of Dawn. Then, after I knock down the OP till its only faint. I follow with 3200 until I see no more of the OP traces.  Then 3600, 4000, etc.  It could be I'm not doing enough on the middle grits, Steve, but I stopped using the Novus heavy scratch remover. I get worried about my nice paint job getting too thin. That stuff seems too coarse. Lots of color comes off on the rag. 

 

3 hours ago, peteski said:

Orange peel surface is caused by very bumpy paint surface.  To make it smooth, those bumps have to be removed until the paint surface is even with the thinnest areas of the paint layer. That is why you will see lots of paint being removed.  I would recommend practicing spraying or airbrushing in a way minimizing orange peel.  I manage to paint my models in a way no sanding/polishing/buffing is needed. It is doable.

Like this  one:

I can't stress enough the importance of a good layer of clear for polishing purposes.

If you plan on polishing your paint, the use of a good quality clear in a sufficient amount will not only guard against removing too much color or burning through the paint, but it has the added benefit of enhancing the color and adding depth to the paint finish.

I don't even consider polishing my finishes without several coats of clear lacquer.

Maybe just me but it's my opinion that clear is an integral part of the painting process and goes a long way towards eliminating any possible problems with the polishing process.

I wouldn't attempt to do it any other way.

 

With a good layer of clear, you don't have to rely on you're hopeful ability to be able to lay down a perfectly smooth paint job, and some orange peel quickly becomes a moot point with the ability to remove it without ever touching the underlying color.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve 

Edited Thursday at 04:59 PM by StevenGuthmiller

[customline]

6 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

 

I can't stress enough the importance of a good layer of clear for polishing purposes.

If you plan on polishing your paint, the use of a good quality clear in a sufficient amount will not only guard against removing too much color or burning through the paint, but it has the added benefit of enhancing the color and adding depth to the paint finish.

I don't even consider polishing my finishes without several coats of clear lacquer.

Maybe just me but it's my opinion that clear is an integral part of the painting process and goes a long way towards eliminating any possible problems with the polishing process.

I wouldn't attempt to do it any other way.

 

With a good layer of clear, you don't have to rely on you're hopeful ability to be able to lay down a perfectly smooth paint job, and some orange peel quickly becomes a moot point with the ability to remove it without ever touching the underlying color.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve 

I'm well aware of the way all that works. I'm not a very good painter, Steve, and the older I get, the less good it gets.  Y'all have answered my question and I'm happy with the modest improvement the Scratch-X made on a few of my recent paint jobs. I know my painting skills need some improvement and I think I might slow down during the rub-out process. I appreciate your input, always.

[customline]

On 7/9/2025 at 5:12 AM, Dave G. said:

"I'd like to hear more about the bees wax, Dave (unless it's a secret formula, of course)" 

No, it's actually store bought. It's a cleaning, polishing wax made for furniture finishes. I like it a lot. Plus one bottle will last two or more lifetimes for how much we use on models. It's my final step. Some folks like a hard wax but I like this. It works on acrylics and lacquer. Probably enamel as well, I just tend to not need to polish enamels..

The name is Howard Feed N Wax. The feed signifies penetrating nourishing for all wood finishes. To which lacquer is a common finish for wood. Works great for me.

I used to re-finish old furniture, Dave, and this Howard's product is one I have not seen but that brand has a familiar ring to it.  I've been using the Novus stuff with the blue label for the final finish. Does the Feed N Wax give you any visible improvement or are you just protecting your paint?

[StevenGuthmiller]

3 hours ago, customline said:

I'm well aware of the way all that works. I'm not a very good painter, Steve, and the older I get, the less good it gets.  Y'all have answered my question and I'm happy with the modest improvement the Scratch-X made on a few of my recent paint jobs. I know my painting skills need some improvement and I think I might slow down during the rub-out process. I appreciate your input, always.

I’m not a very good painter either.

Never have been.

But that’s why I eventually settled on a system that doesn’t require being a good painter in order to achieve a show quality paint job.

Getting high quality paint results is without a doubt one of the most challenging aspects of model car building for the vast majority of builders.

That’s why I repeatedly suggest the type of regimen that I use to people.

Because I’ve learned over 50+ years in the hobby that you absolutely do not have to be a professional painter to get results like one.

 

 

 

Steve

[bill-e-boy]

Talking of scratches in your paint finish -

1- I now use a finer grade of paper on the undercoat prior to paint especially lacquer - the scratches stay all the way to the last coat of clear

3- wait a few days between colour and clear

3- When colour sanding the clear coat I start with a finer grade say 3200 for the first session at least a week or two after last coat of paint, then I leave it to sit for a day or two to gas out some more before hitting it with the next grade. It is amazing how soft the paint is even after siting for a time

4- after rubbing out finish off with the Final Detail Carnuba wax or Mother's Brazilian Carnuba   

[slusher]

I use maguires scratch x.

 

[Straightliner59]

I used to use MSC's polshing kit--I'm pretty sure their poliching compound was Novus. Lately, I've been using Wright's Silver Cream. Snake suggested it, and I've found it to be satisfactory. It's fairly inexpensive, as well.

[Dave G.]

10 hours ago, customline said:

I used to re-finish old furniture, Dave, and this Howard's product is one I have not seen but that brand has a familiar ring to it.  I've been using the Novus stuff with the blue label for the final finish. Does the Feed N Wax give you any visible improvement or are you just protecting your paint?

I'm mostly protecting the finish. However it seems to offer a bit more clarity if there was any haze at all left. Lets just say, using it, it then appears more finished, at least to my eye. I don't use it on flat colors, fwiw. It's all about gloss or sheen.

Also it has a little orange oil in it, so that will clean off any Novus residue.

Edited Friday at 11:11 AM by Dave G.

[customline]

9 hours ago, bill-e-boy said:

Talking of scratches in your paint finish -

1- I now use a finer grade of paper on the undercoat prior to paint especially lacquer - the scratches stay all the way to the last coat of clear

3- wait a few days between colour and clear

3- When colour sanding the clear coat I start with a finer grade say 3200 for the first session at least a week or two after last coat of paint, then I leave it to sit for a day or two to gas out some more before hitting it with the next grade. It is amazing how soft the paint is even after siting for a time

4- after rubbing out finish off with the Final Detail Carnuba wax or Mother's Brazilian Carnuba   

Yeah, Bill, I think I should be waiting longer. Soft paint won't polish.  

This is the first paint job I decided not to polish. No rub-out, no scratches 🙂. If I can only remember what I did right 🥴. It's Boyd's enamel with Mr. Hobby thinner w/ some leveling thinner added. The mix was approximately 1:1 , shot through an old single stage bottom feeder at around 20#.

[customline]

3 hours ago, Dave G. said:

I'm mostly protecting the finish. However it seems to offer a bit more clarity if there was any haze at all left. Lets just say, using it, it then appears more finished, at least to my eye. I don't use it on flat colors, fwiw. It's all about gloss or sheen.

Also it has a little orange oil in it, so that will clean off any Novus residue.

I'd like to try it, Dave. Where can I find it?

[customline]

9 hours ago, slusher said:

I use maguires scratch x.

 

It brings the gloss up, Carl, a noticeable improvement for sure. It's not cheap but I have enough to last me if I live to 101 (actually, I have fingernail scratches under the door handles on my daily driver that I want to try to rub out. It won't go to waste 😎)