IN THE BUFF

[customline]

I've been using the Novus fine scratch remover for years (and I'm slow to change) but would appreciate some info on final rub-out products.  Something to remove the ones that the Novus leaves behind.

[StevenGuthmiller]

I use Turtle Wax “Scratch and Swirl Remover”.

 

 

Steve

[Mike 1017]

I use Maguires Scratch X

[Beans]

+1 for Maguires

[Dave G.]

I use Formula 1 Scratch Out scratch and swirl remover. Sometimes when the paint went down already quite glossy that's all I use. Then a bees wax formula.

Edited Tuesday at 04:03 PM by Dave G.

[espo]

I have been pleased with the results using Tamiya Polishing Compound, Finish. Others are Mequiar's Plastx Cleaner & Polish as well as Nu Finish Scratch Doctor.  

[customline]

23 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I use Turtle Wax “Scratch and Swirl Remover”.

 

 

Steve

 

12 hours ago, Mike 1017 said:

I use Maguires Scratch X

 

11 hours ago, Beans said:

+1 for Maguires

 

9 hours ago, Dave G. said:

I use Formula 1 Scratch Out scratch and swirl remover. Sometimes when the paint went down already quite glossy that's all I use. Then a bees wax formula.

I'd like to hear more about the bees wax, Dave (unless it's a secret formula, of course)

8 hours ago, espo said:

I have been pleased with the results using Tamiya Polishing Compound, Finish. Others are Mequiar's Plastx Cleaner & Polish as well as Nu Finish Scratch Doctor.  

I appreciate it, gents. I now have a nice "short list". 

[Dave G.]

"I'd like to hear more about the bees wax, Dave (unless it's a secret formula, of course)" 

No, it's actually store bought. It's a cleaning, polishing wax made for furniture finishes. I like it a lot. Plus one bottle will last two or more lifetimes for how much we use on models. It's my final step. Some folks like a hard wax but I like this. It works on acrylics and lacquer. Probably enamel as well, I just tend to not need to polish enamels..

The name is Howard Feed N Wax. The feed signifies penetrating nourishing for all wood finishes. To which lacquer is a common finish for wood. Works great for me.

Edited yesterday at 12:44 PM by Dave G.

[NOBLNG]

On 7/7/2025 at 8:45 PM, customline said:

I've been using the Novus fine scratch remover for years (and I'm slow to change) but would appreciate some info on final rub-out products.  Something to remove the ones that the Novus leaves behind.

I was hesitant to open this thread….thought there might be a pic of you sitting at your model bench.😬 I have only used Tamiya Coarse, Fine and Finishing with mediocre results mostly due to my lack of patience.

[customline]

5 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

I was hesitant to open this thread….thought there might be a pic of you sitting at your model bench.😬 I have only used Tamiya Coarse, Fine and Finishing with mediocre results mostly due to my lack of patience.

And yet you opened it! 🤣  wasn't that a great idea?

Hey...I totally understand. Patience is not something I'm known for. I'm leaning towards lighter colors now so I don't see the swirlies as easily but I shall purchase the McGuire's version today. 

[customline]

9 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

I was hesitant to open this thread….thought there might be a pic of you sitting at your model bench.😬 I have only used Tamiya Coarse, Fine and Finishing with mediocre results mostly due to my lack of patience.

I tried the "Scratch X,"  figuring McGuire's is top shelf (it was, 40 years ago 🥴), so why not start at the top?  I tried it on the '53 roof with good but not great results. I can't see any change, scratch wise,  but it is noticeably glossier.  That's a win, 🤓 ain't it?  Maybe I should polish it several more times...🤔

Edited 16 hours ago by customline

[StevenGuthmiller]

13 minutes ago, customline said:

I tried the "Scratch X,"  figuring McGuire's is top shelf (it was, 40 years ago 🥴), so why not start at the top?  I tried it on the '53 roof with good but not great results. I can't see any change, scratch wise,  but it is noticeably glossier.  That's a win, 🤓 ain't it?  Maybe I should polish it several more times...🤔

If you’re having issues with not being able to remove scratches, you might want to go back and revisit the entire polishing process.

Are you starting with too course of a grit?

Are you utilizing every grit all of the way to the finest without skipping any?

Are you sufficiently utilizing each grit to it’s full measure?

Once finished with the pads or paper, are you also using the Novus polish in succession? (Heavy and fine scratch remover)

The scratch and swirl remover that I use has very little abrasive ability, so it serves only to enhance the luster and remove very fine surface anomalies.

It’s not really going to remedy any problems of any real depth.

Just thinking out loud. 😊

 

 

 

Steve

[customline]

12 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

If you’re having issues with not being able to remove scratches, you might want to go back and revisit the entire polishing process.

Are you starting with too course of a grit?

Are you utilizing every grit all of the way to the finest without skipping any?

Are you sufficiently utilizing each grit to it’s full measure?

Once finished with the pads or paper, are you also using the Novus polish in succession? (Heavy and fine scratch remover)

The scratch and swirl remover that I use has very little abrasive ability, so it serves only to enhance the luster and remove very fine surface anomalies.

It’s not really going to remedy any problems of any real depth.

Just thinking out loud. 😊

 

 

 

Steve

In the case of orange peel, I start wet with 2000 and a drop of Dawn. Then, after I knock down the OP till its only faint. I follow with 3200 until I see no more of the OP traces.  Then 3600, 4000, etc.  It could be I'm not doing enough on the middle grits, Steve, but I stopped using the Novus heavy scratch remover. I get worried about my nice paint job getting too thin. That stuff seems too coarse. Lots of color comes off on the rag. 

[peteski]

Orange peel surface is caused by very bumpy paint surface.  To make it smooth, those bumps have to be removed until the paint surface is even with the thinnest areas of the paint layer. That is why you will see lots of paint being removed.  I would recommend practicing spraying or airbrushing in a way minimizing orange peel.  I manage to paint my models in a way no sanding/polishing/buffing is needed. It is doable.

Like this  one: