Taking pictures of your models

[peteski]

A good source of focus stacking info is https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focus_stacking It explains the process, and shows the available apps.

As I mentioned, I use Helicon Focus.  It is very handy for those macro shots you mentioned earlier. My Nikon CoolPix 8700 only stops down the lens to f8, so for my macro shots I stack the photos with Helicon Focus,  It is a bit of a pain to do this, but the results are worth it.  Some of the stacking apps can take the series of photos at different focus distance. automatically (if they can control the camera, wither DSLR or smart phone cameras).

Some related inf is also available in these threads on another forum:
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=45972.0
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=50650.0
 

Edited May 31, 2022 by peteski

[Pete J.]

10 hours ago, peteski said:

A good source of focus stacking info is https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focus_stacking It explains the process, and shows the available apps.

As I mentioned, I use Helicon Focus.  It is very handy for those macro shots you mentioned earlier. My Nikon CoolPix 8700 only stops down the lens to f8, so for my macro shots I stack the photos with Helicon Focus,  It is a bit of a pain to do this, but the results are worth it.  Some of the stacking apps can take the series of photos at different focus distance. automatically (if they can control the camera, wither DSLR or smart phone cameras).

Some related inf is also available in these threads on another forum:
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=45972.0
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=50650.0
 

Peter, 

  Thank you for bringing this up.  I had never heard of it before.  I just watched a video on how to do this in Photoshop . The stacking is built in and mostly automated.  Looks like I will be doing some experiments with it. 

[peteski]

44 minutes ago, Pete J. said:

Thank you for bringing this up.  I had never heard of it before.  I just watched a video on how to do this in Photoshop . The stacking is built in and mostly automated.  Looks like I will be doing some experiments with it. 

Very good!  You're welcome Pete.

 

Here is a quick example of focus stacking (with Helicon Focus).  I'm only showing a single photo in the stack (to show how little is in focus in each photo).  The photo shown is the second or third in the stach focused on the closest area of the model.

After combining all the photos in the stack I ended up with the entire model in focus.

This is an N-scale (1:160) model of a locomotive (about 6" long) and the photo was taken in macro mode for the exaggerated perspective.

Edited June 1, 2022 by peteski

[GoForItPainting]

Thank you! This may also be a solution to my problem.

 

 

[GoForItPainting]

My Youtube channel has reached its first 100 subscribers. I "celebrated" by buying a softbox (entry level). I hope to be able to produce better quality pictures and videos.

If my audience continues to grow I plan to purchase a "Canon EOSM50 MkII". Would it be suitable for the type of close-up video shoots I do ("how to videos")? Or should it have at least a portrait ("selfie videos") distance with lots of light? Thank you!

[Kenmojr]

On 2/14/2012 at 11:45 AM, Chuck Doan said:

I enjoy playing around with filters and other effects on my model photos:

 

http://images55.fotki.com/v509/photos/9/777399/8925248/DSCF1004copylighter-vi.jpghttp://images18.fotki.com/v61/photos/9/777399/8925248/workinlatecopy-vi.jpghttp://images42.fotki.com/v1320/photos/9/777399/8925248/Betweencalls-vi.jpg

Outstanding photos. The point of view makes them seem so real life.

[Kenmojr]

Doug Whyte of youtube channel Model Car Muse is not only an outstanding car modeler but is also a fantastic tutor and a professional photographer.

I this episode of his fantastic youtube channel he gives tips and advice on taking photographs of your car models.

 

[bisc63]

That is an excellent video for anyone looking to shoot better pics; you''ll learn more in 15 minutes there than in an hour reading about it.

[Big John]

I have found that by moving Way back and Zooming in you will flatten the perspective angle and get a greater depth 0f focus giving a more realistic look to your image.  However you do need much more light and/or a tripod or very steady hand.

Edited December 7, 2022 by Big John
Add Photo

[peteski]

5 minutes ago, Big John said:

I have found that by moving Way back and Zooming in you will flatten the perspective angle and get a greater depth 0f focus giving a more realistic look to your image.  However you do need much more light and/or a tripod or very steady hand.

I'm of the other thought:  Telephoto lens flattens the already small model. I find that using as wide angle lens as possible and closer to the model exaggerates its perspective, making it appear like 1:1 vehicle.  Wide angle lenses also have greater depth of field, so more of the model stays in focus.  Of course using the smallest possible lens aperture (largest f-stop) also improves the depth of field.  I'm talking about 3/4 shots of course.

Example: a 1:32 scale model where the front appears large but it gets smaller towards the rear.  Makes it look like it is long.

 

1:8 scale model. Again the wide angle lens gives the perspective effect.

[Big John]

Nice models Mr. Peter and wonderful shots.  Yes as small an aperture is the key to depth of field along with enough light to achieve a faster shutter speed.  Even with a long(er) zoom you can still get as tight framing of your image as you want.  Of course it all depends on the look you are going for.

Edited December 11, 2022 by Big John
spelling

[peteski]

Thanks John!  And it is true - it is all about what you are going for. 
That 1:1 Caddy looks larger than life due to the forced perspective of a wide-angle lens.
The 1:1 green car looks like a model to me due to the angle of  the photo and longer focal distance lens.

When I build a model and I photograph it, I usually like it to look more like a 1:1  car, so I prefer the forced perspective look.

[Big John]

The two 1:1 cars were both shot with my little cannon powershot.  I don’t recall if I used the zoom on the green car or not.  I think that really the key to realistic looking model photos is the depth of field (focus) by using the largest f-stop that the light and shutter speed will allow.  This was brought home to me the other day when I saw a photo of a real 1:1 car in which both the back and front of the car were out of focus.  My first reaction was that this was a really clean model build but the details were just too fine. I have also seen some intro shots of moving freeway traffic, for a news show, where the only sharp focus was on the cars moving in the center of the shot and the surrounding show had a progressive blur.  Again my first thought was ‘This is a really cool HO scale model with moving roadway.  So I believe that we’ve come to expect that model photos will have a very shallow focus which is why we automatically choose which is real or a model.  This applies to the background also, the sharper the more realistic.

Sorry that took longer than expected.

[Kenmojr]

Getting low down and close.

 

1932 Ford 3 window coupe hot rod, Windsor,, Nova Scotia, Canada - August 4, 2019 : 1932 Ford 3 window coupe hot rod at Avon River Days Show & Shine, Windsor waterfront.

Camera: Nikon D5200 & Nikkor 18-55 kit 10-20mm
ISO400, 18mm f/22, 1/100

Edited January 6, 2023 by Kenmojr

[Kenmojr]

1969 Chevrolet Custom 10, Windsor,, Nova Scotia, Canada - August 4, 2019 : 1969 Chevy C10 pickup at Avon River Days Show & Shine, Windsor waterfront.

Camera: Nikon D5200 & 18-55mm kit lens
ISO400, 18mm, f/22, 1/60

 

 

[Jon Cole]

Outside lighting is not always an option. If you have nearby source of indoor lighting, you're better off not using a flash.  This using a Samsung Galaxy S21+.

Edited May 11, 2023 by Jon Cole

[Bugatti Fan]

Some of the newer digital cameras have a focus stacking firmware feature built in to the camera. So if anyone is in the market for a new camera this feature will be well worth looking for. Panasonic certainly has at least one camera with it, so I guess others might too.

[PatW]

I have a 5-10 year old small digital camera, and I take 99.9% of photo's without the flash.

[Ralphie]

On 12/7/2022 at 6:26 PM, Big John said:

I have found that by moving Way back and Zooming in you will flatten the perspective angle and get a greater depth 0f focus giving a more realistic look to your image.  However you do need much more light and/or a tripod or very steady hand.

What lens are you using ? Nice job !

 

[Big John]

I can't remember when I last used a 35mm film camera, so all the above photos were shot with a Canon PowerShot A610 with built in zoom lens.  And only has 5mega pixel processor. good enough for what I do now days.

[Ralphie]

I'll have to try that. Besides my Nikon I have a A520.

[PatW]

I don't know where to ask this.  I use Fotki, downloading from picture files and further onto various forums.  When I start up my PC each day the Fotki square comes up on screen automatically, showing it ready to use the download to Fotki Folders.

It then drops down into the Desktop line at the base of the screen. Last Friday it didn't appear , me thinking that their feed/website was down for some reason. Looking into my Card Index under Fotki, I went through the normal process of going to Fotki Desktop and re-loading the FD2 Setup. But nothing, so still no way of using Fotki.

Some say across the forums use the 'drag and drop' method, but not being a 70+ year old technology is zero! Any help would be gratefully received.   

 

[Thedragsterdude]

What about how the shadow is??