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Taking pictures of your models


Jairus

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A good source of focus stacking info is https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focus_stacking It explains the process, and shows the available apps.

As I mentioned, I use Helicon Focus.  It is very handy for those macro shots you mentioned earlier. My Nikon CoolPix 8700 only stops down the lens to f8, so for my macro shots I stack the photos with Helicon Focus,  It is a bit of a pain to do this, but the results are worth it.  Some of the stacking apps can take the series of photos at different focus distance. automatically (if they can control the camera, wither DSLR or smart phone cameras).

Some related inf is also available in these threads on another forum:
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=45972.0
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=50650.0
 

Edited by peteski
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10 hours ago, peteski said:

A good source of focus stacking info is https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focus_stacking It explains the process, and shows the available apps.

As I mentioned, I use Helicon Focus.  It is very handy for those macro shots you mentioned earlier. My Nikon CoolPix 8700 only stops down the lens to f8, so for my macro shots I stack the photos with Helicon Focus,  It is a bit of a pain to do this, but the results are worth it.  Some of the stacking apps can take the series of photos at different focus distance. automatically (if they can control the camera, wither DSLR or smart phone cameras).

Some related inf is also available in these threads on another forum:
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=45972.0
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=50650.0
 

Peter, 

  Thank you for bringing this up.  I had never heard of it before.  I just watched a video on how to do this in Photoshop . The stacking is built in and mostly automated.  Looks like I will be doing some experiments with it. 

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44 minutes ago, Pete J. said:

Thank you for bringing this up.  I had never heard of it before.  I just watched a video on how to do this in Photoshop . The stacking is built in and mostly automated.  Looks like I will be doing some experiments with it. 

Very good!  You're welcome Pete.

 

Here is a quick example of focus stacking (with Helicon Focus).  I'm only showing a single photo in the stack (to show how little is in focus in each photo).  The photo shown is the second or third in the stach focused on the closest area of the model.
2700-301119133300-13692271.jpeg

After combining all the photos in the stack I ended up with the entire model in focus.

2700-301119133300-1369299.jpeg

This is an N-scale (1:160) model of a locomotive (about 6" long) and the photo was taken in macro mode for the exaggerated perspective.

Edited by peteski
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  • 4 weeks later...

My Youtube channel has reached its first 100 subscribers. I "celebrated" by buying a softbox (entry level). I hope to be able to produce better quality pictures and videos.

If my audience continues to grow I plan to purchase a "Canon EOSM50 MkII". Would it be suitable for the type of close-up video shoots I do ("how to videos")? Or should it have at least a portrait ("selfie videos") distance with lots of light? Thank you!

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  • 1 month later...
On 2/14/2012 at 11:45 AM, Chuck Doan said:

Outstanding photos. The point of view makes them seem so real life.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Doug Whyte of youtube channel Model Car Muse is not only an outstanding car modeler but is also a fantastic tutor and a professional photographer.

I this episode of his fantastic youtube channel he gives tips and advice on taking photographs of your car models.

 

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  • 3 months later...

I have found that by moving Way back and Zooming in you will flatten the perspective angle and get a greater depth 0f focus giving a more realistic look to your image.  However you do need much more light and/or a tripod or very steady hand.

Challenger Photo Op.jpg

Edited by Big John
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5 minutes ago, Big John said:

I have found that by moving Way back and Zooming in you will flatten the perspective angle and get a greater depth 0f focus giving a more realistic look to your image.  However you do need much more light and/or a tripod or very steady hand.

I'm of the other thought:  Telephoto lens flattens the already small model. I find that using as wide angle lens as possible and closer to the model exaggerates its perspective, making it appear like 1:1 vehicle.  Wide angle lenses also have greater depth of field, so more of the model stays in focus.  Of course using the smallest possible lens aperture (largest f-stop) also improves the depth of field.  I'm talking about 3/4 shots of course.

Gunze59skylinerFront.jpg

Example: a 1:32 scale model where the front appears large but it gets smaller towards the rear.  Makes it look like it is long.

 

MB340AK.JPG

1:8 scale model. Again the wide angle lens gives the perspective effect.

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Nice models Mr. Peter and wonderful shots.  Yes as small an aperture is the key to depth of field along with enough light to achieve a faster shutter speed.  Even with a long(er) zoom you can still get as tight framing of your image as you want.  Of course it all depends on the look you are going for.

Long White Cadillac_lt.jpg

Green T Tudor VFW.jpg

Edited by Big John
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Thanks John!  And it is true - it is all about what you are going for. 
That 1:1 Caddy looks larger than life due to the forced perspective of a wide-angle lens.
The 1:1 green car looks like a model to me due to the angle of  the photo and longer focal distance lens.

When I build a model and I photograph it, I usually like it to look more like a 1:1  car, so I prefer the forced perspective look.

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The two 1:1 cars were both shot with my little cannon powershot.  I don’t recall if I used the zoom on the green car or not.  I think that really the key to realistic looking model photos is the depth of field (focus) by using the largest f-stop that the light and shutter speed will allow.  This was brought home to me the other day when I saw a photo of a real 1:1 car in which both the back and front of the car were out of focus.  My first reaction was that this was a really clean model build but the details were just too fine. I have also seen some intro shots of moving freeway traffic, for a news show, where the only sharp focus was on the cars moving in the center of the shot and the surrounding show had a progressive blur.  Again my first thought was ‘This is a really cool HO scale model with moving roadway.  So I believe that we’ve come to expect that model photos will have a very shallow focus which is why we automatically choose which is real or a model.  This applies to the background also, the sharper the more realistic.

Sorry that took longer than expected.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Getting low down and close.

 

1932 Ford 3 window coupe hot rod, Windsor,, Nova Scotia, Canada - August 4, 2019 : 1932 Ford 3 window coupe hot rod at Avon River Days Show & Shine, Windsor waterfront.

Camera: Nikon D5200 & Nikkor 18-55 kit 10-20mm
ISO400, 18mm f/22, 1/100

p3547383637-5.jpg

Edited by Kenmojr
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  • 4 months later...

Outside lighting is not always an option. If you have nearby source of indoor lighting, you're better off not using a flash.  This using a Samsung Galaxy S21+.

MODEL STUFF- FLASH PHOTO- WITH FLASH.jpg

MODEL STUFF- FLASH PHOTO- WITHOUT FLASH.jpg

Edited by Jon Cole
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  • 9 months later...

Some of the newer digital cameras have a focus stacking firmware feature built in to the camera. So if anyone is in the market for a new camera this feature will be well worth looking for. Panasonic certainly has at least one camera with it, so I guess others might too.

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