Taking pictures of your models

[Chuck Doan]

Thanks for the nice words! Skip, those were done using the Drybrush filter in Photoshop elements. I like it better than the Watercolor filter. After it is applied I sharpen the photo just a bit. The sun shot is the real thing, somehow my camera didn't freak out.

Edited February 15, 2012 by Chuck Doan

[Dr. Cranky]

Chuck, I know you are a big fan of taking pictures outside in very bright light to capture all those interesting shadows in your work. Excellent results all the time.

[crazyjim]

Okay you camera guys. I think I might want to get a new camera. Right now I have a Kodak Easyshare M753 that has 7 megapixels and 3x optical zoom (whatever those mean). I'm thinking a Kodak Easyshare Z5120 with 26 megapixels and 26x optical zoom.

I don't want to have to make all kinds of manual settings - just be able to take close up shots of say, a 1/25 scale distributor and have the pic nice and clear. I use a small tripod now but can't seem to do decent closeup pics.

Any thoughts on this camera?

[Dr. Cranky]

Jim, I don't have any experience with this camera, but I imagine you are researching already based on your basic needs and requirements.

I stand by my Cannon Powershot XIS10, and I've had it now for about 4 years and have gotten quite a lot of good use out of it.

[sjordan2]

Okay you camera guys. I think I might want to get a new camera. Right now I have a Kodak Easyshare M753 that has 7 megapixels and 3x optical zoom (whatever those mean). I'm thinking a Kodak Easyshare Z5120 with 26 megapixels and 26x optical zoom.

I don't want to have to make all kinds of manual settings - just be able to take close up shots of say, a 1/25 scale distributor and have the pic nice and clear. I use a small tripod now but can't seem to do decent closeup pics.

Any thoughts on this camera?

It may not have much to do with warranty questions, but I think you might be able to get a good deal on the Kodak since they announced this week that they're getting out of the camera business.

[Foxer]

Ok, I have a question for all those that have gotten realistic photos of models sitting in front of a real background and have made it look real. Any hints at all would be appreciated, from choosing a background, relative object sizes, lens, focal length, etc. I have a DSLR so I can adjust to anything but I'm sure all will be appreciated even by those with simple point and shoot cameras.

I'd assume a diorama board with road surface and some HO grass and weeds would be a good start. How do you size up a background that will blend in with any buildings the proper size?

What lens focal length will give the best perspective?

Will the dio board close to the fround give the best perspective or can it be raised some for ease of photographing?

I'm sure any suggestions will raise more questions ..

[crazyjim]

It may not have much to do with warranty questions, but I think you might be able to get a good deal on the Kodak since they announced this week that they're getting out of the camera business.

Kodak getting out of the camera business? No way!

[Romell R]

I for one would like to thank Virgil for taking the time to make things a lil different here in the forums. My hats of to you and thank you for sharing the many works of art weather thay are yours or belong to some other artist. Bravo Dr. Cranky!

[Guest Dr. Odyssey]

That's what great about America. We don't all have to like the same things.

[Dr. Cranky]

Thanks, Rom. I appreciate the support. I'm always trying to get as many people into the conversation as it is humanly possible. We're all learning by talking things out.

LONG LIVE STYRENE ADDICTION!

[MikeMc]

Ok, I have a question for all those that have gotten realistic photos of models sitting in front of a real background and have made it look real. Any hints at all would be appreciated, from choosing a background, relative object sizes, lens, focal length, etc. I have a DSLR so I can adjust to anything but I'm sure all will be appreciated even by those with simple point and shoot cameras.

I'd assume a diorama board with road surface and some HO grass and weeds would be a good start. How do you size up a background that will blend in with any buildings the proper size? 1/24 and 1/25 are 1/2 '" scale

What lens focal length will give the best perspective? Longest you have room to shoot properly with

Will the dio board close to the fround give the best perspective or can it be raised some for ease of photographing? Personal Choice... I mount mine on saw -horses or my workmate

I'm sure any suggestions will raise more questions ..

Not sure if I am a good enough resource to answer all of this but I am trying my best .

I am sure that the single most important thing you must have is good lighting. I have said for years that you can deal with too much than not enough...

Edited February 16, 2012 by MikeMc

[Dr. Cranky]

Jim, the other cameras that I like are Nikons. Anyway, I hope you continue to do research and I am sure the right camera will sing out to you.

[sjordan2]

Kodak getting out of the camera business? No way!

http://www.marketwatch.com/story/kodak-cameras-rip-2012-02-10?link=MW_latest_news

[crazyjim]

I really liked that Kodak Z5120. Maybe Kodak will have a giant sale soon. I've looked at Canon & Sony but they don't seem to have the optical zoom and high megapixels for a decent price like Kodak. I'm assuming that's what I should be looking for - high megapixel and high optical zoom?

[Dr. Cranky]

Thanks for posting this, Skip. I think they really never recovered from the switch from film to digital. I think that was the nail on their coffin a while back.

[Rmodeler]

Hi, I'm new here. I have to thank all the regulars and in particular Dr. Cranky, for his undying love of the hobby. It really helped me back in to the hobby after a long hibernation. To contribute to this post I thought I'd show a couple of experiments of mine.

1) Andretti Lola T-8800 IndyCar / Warehouse shot: Warehouse image for back ground was a purchased "stock" photo (a few dollars). I made a small tabletop "set" on a card table with consisting of two walls and a colored-paper floor. The walls are laser printouts spray-glued to foam core. The right one has an opening in it where I've used a vertical plastic H-channel and a more printouts to make a half-opened warehouse door with a brick wall outside.

2) Speeding VW Bug: While the IndyCar was a regular shot, this second one was put together in Photoshop. Again, the driver was from stock, as was the forest image. The background was first blurred to show movement, like those real-life "panned" motion shots. Then the car was dropped in, then the driver, and the foreground berm. Lastly, the wheel spokes were blurred radially to give the look of rotation.

Question: If someday Photoshop will be as common a tool for modelers as an x-acto knife is now, can a powerful manifulated image of a model which only exists as a computer file, be an end result (as well as the model itself of course)?

Edited February 16, 2012 by Rmodeler

[Dr. Cranky]

Another aspect that I think is interesting (and discussed in a few other threads) is this business of realism in pictures with or without vehicles and people. Here's a picture that I think most people would have a hard time believing this is in fact a diorama, or model, and again comes from the magnificent work of Chuck Doan.

(photo courtesy: Chuck Doan)

This, I believe, is his most recent build, which I hope you will visit here:

http://public.fotki.com/ChuckDoan/model_projects/untitled-half-inch-/

[Dr. Cranky]

Roger, great to have you back again, buddy. I've always enjoyed your work, and you seem to be one of these builders who thrives on making your pictures (by whatever means necessary) super realistic.

[Dr. Cranky]

Mike, that looks fantastic! And the beauty of this is that you can shoot indoors and get very good results over and over . . . I'm also assuming that you can bring in all the props you need to vary up the scene. These kinds of backdrops are an indication of your level of addiction not only to styrene, but also to photos.

[Rmodeler]

Ditto to what Virgil just said. Another thing to be sensitive to (which you have done well Mike -- this is for others) is to keep in mind how tall a scale photographer would be. I see lots of model shots taken routinely from what would amount to a scale fifteen or twenty feet above the ground. While shots from high above are not verboten, and can work, a human level shot is sometimes more convincing when it comes to models. Also check out the worm's-eye view (cam on the ground) to give your subject more importance.

[Dr. Cranky]

Drew H's article in the next to last MCM agrees with your point, Roger. It's something I have never paid any attention to, but I will definitely will start looking at carefully now.

[Rmodeler]

Mike .. I went back to your picture to look at it and I had to re-post. It is fabulous! The roll-up door with chain is totally convincing, the X-brace, the yellow pipes,

and the smaller door... it is all quite wow. I can see it looking great with many different kinds of shot angles and lighting too; soft, directional, low-light, sunset

whatever... great job!

Edited February 16, 2012 by Rmodeler

[Dr. Cranky]

These are wonderful photos, and it looks like once you had the plan, the photo op went up pretty fast. Have you considered doing a how-to on this type of back drop, Mike? Maybe you have one already and I haven't seen it.

[SuperStockAndy]

I wish I had all these diorama skills you guys have.

[Dr. Cranky]

Mike, well, it's never too late to do one. I think it's a great idea to archive it on the record so that others see the beauty of such builds . . . and give everyone more ideas beyond the normal garage scenes . . . in my book, the more variety, the better.