TransAmMike Posted November 28, 2020 Posted November 28, 2020 So is it normal then for the big pressure drop when I start spraying??
Miatatom Posted November 28, 2020 Posted November 28, 2020 Not if you have a tank on your compressor.
TransAmMike Posted November 28, 2020 Posted November 28, 2020 Does have a tank. BTW Tom, I see you are near Chattanooga, I'm near (South) of Nashville.
Miatatom Posted November 28, 2020 Posted November 28, 2020 Hey Mike! I've got a Harbor Freight compressor with a small tank. I usually set my pressure at about 21.5 and it'll drop to 20 when I'm spraying. I built this booth for less than $250, including the bilge blower and connecting ducting. It's on legs and casters to roll it around when cleaning.
Dave G. Posted November 29, 2020 Posted November 29, 2020 Mike, My Paasche H will drop the pressure about 1- 1/1/2lb fwiw.. I use an 8 gal portable compressor. The key is whatever the drop is that it holds there, you don't want to see a continual falling off. You don't want a drop from say 21lb to 20 or to19-1/2 that only holds a few seconds and starts dropping more to 14, 12, 10. You gotta be able to maintain flow once the initial drop occurs. That's expected, it's called working pressure vs static pressure. Static pressure is what you set you gauge to before flowing air. Working pressure is what you get with air flowing. You should be able to set the gauge so you compensate for the loss by cracking the pressure up that little bit ( if you need to). If you can't then your compressor is inadequate or you got air leaks someplace. I typically mix my paints to flow well at around 18-20 psi flowing. Enamel I might bump up a bit more and lacquer a bit lower, sometimes quite a bit lower. I shoot all my acrylics the same, I just thin them to flow where I like it. Thick paint obviously uses typically larger needles and higher pressure, thin paints smaller needles and lower pressures. Nuff said here, over and out.
TransAmMike Posted November 29, 2020 Posted November 29, 2020 "10/4" Dave. I'm thinking I was only paying attention to the initial pressure drop so most likely it was only dropping a very small amount while spraying. I still haven't figured out how to get a good thinning mix although I did try some Folkart black enamel craft paint mixing it with the Createx 4012 and 4030 and got a darn smooth finish on a spoontest. It actually dried to a slightly shiny finish, maybe a more than satin. Unfortunately the weather here south of Nashville for net week is about to go downhill, highs in the mid to 30's so no painting in the garage next week. As alwaysl, I look forward to your comments my friend.
Dave G. Posted November 29, 2020 Posted November 29, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, TransAmMike said: "10/4" Dave. I'm thinking I was only paying attention to the initial pressure drop so most likely it was only dropping a very small amount while spraying. I still haven't figured out how to get a good thinning mix although I did try some Folkart black enamel craft paint mixing it with the Createx 4012 and 4030 and got a darn smooth finish on a spoontest. It actually dried to a slightly shiny finish, maybe a more than satin. Unfortunately the weather here south of Nashville for net week is about to go downhill, highs in the mid to 30's so no painting in the garage next week. As alwaysl, I look forward to your comments my friend. You may have a wacky gauge or regulator. I've never seen a 10lb drop even shooting 1/1 with full size spray guns back in the day of shooting 60 psi. I'd be inclined to crank the pressure and run a line to a secondary regulator but I know you like to conserve money. I just happen to have a Point Zero on hand though. I use black FolkArt a lot, the color name is Licorice, I use it on running boards and stuff. But FA in general sprays nice, I make my own thinner I use in craft paints. It's good to hear the Createx thinners work in it non the less. I also use Aztek thinner in DecoArt, DA doesn't like alcohol very much so I make a blend of my own with the Aztek and that works well in DecoArt. The other day I took a metallic FA, thinned it with denatured alcohol, it sprayed awesome but it needs a bit of retarder because of tip dry if the airbrush sits for a minute. That was the multi surface stuff. So since it worked so well I mixed some up using DecoArt, no go. My way of mixing craft paints is by viscosity, I go by how a drop of paint placed on the side of my mixing cup returns to the volume of paint in the cup. IE how quick it runs down the side. It should return steady in 1-3 seconds and leave film behind. If it just sits there barely crawling back to the bottom it's too thick. If it runs back like water is one thing but if it runs back like water leaving no film is another, one is a bit too thin, the other, well it's way over thinned. From there it's a spray test. It should be easy spraying, good natured. Edited November 29, 2020 by Dave G.
TransAmMike Posted November 30, 2020 Posted November 30, 2020 Good to know Dave. The guage is new and liquid filled so it won't wobble. I still think I wasn't payng attention to the pressure after the first release of air.
Dave G. Posted November 30, 2020 Posted November 30, 2020 10 hours ago, TransAmMike said: Good to know Dave. The guage is new and liquid filled so it won't wobble. I still think I wasn't payng attention to the pressure after the first release of air. Ok Mike.
JGrey Posted January 2, 2021 Posted January 2, 2021 I have a quick somewhat related question. I'll be setting up my spray booth outside on apartment patio, it's the only place really for me to. We don't get really cold winter here, but west coast Canada, so we have high humidity. I know in past using spray cans, both primer and automotive type paint, i couldn't leave the model to cure outside, i would bring inside right away and leave to dry for several days. That isn't an option here in my new place, the fumes would be too strong. I'm getting setup for airbrush now, and wonder if it is more resilient to curing outside, in closed cabinet of course, but outside moderate tempratures and relative humidity?
Miatatom Posted January 2, 2021 Posted January 2, 2021 I built a drying cabinet from plywood. Inside, I use a 100w light bulb with a variable rheostat to dim it. I used a meat thermometer to determine the temperature in the box at different settings. I usually set it around 100 degrees. You could build something like that to dry your models.
Zippi Posted March 14, 2021 Posted March 14, 2021 (edited) Finally got my Paasche H airbrush in. I had an adapter so I could connect it to my shop compressor. I got it all hooked up and set the air pressure at 25 PSI, mixed up some Ceramcoat paint, and thinned it with Lacquer thinner. I was using the #3 tip that was already installed. I started out with the airbrush spitting out the paint so I figured it was to thick. Thinned it down a couple more time until it seem to start laying down a good pattern of paint. I had to thin the paint until it was almost like water. I assume that's how it needs to be since it was spraying pretty good. I'm going to practice with it a lot before I try and spray my next truck which it the 1956 Foose truck. Edited March 14, 2021 by Zippi
Aflica Posted May 20, 2021 Posted May 20, 2021 Airbrush paint should be the consistency of milk in most cases . So thin till its there and experiment with your pressure . You can start around 15 and go up till it's spraying like you want it too . Light coats at first and then a little heavier after the light coats have bonded and have a little "tooth" to hold onto . And always primer if possible on a really clean body Steve
Bill Eh? Posted June 6, 2021 Posted June 6, 2021 (edited) I hope this post is appropriate to the topic thread. I purchased a SharpenAir tool for repairing/re-sharpening bent or damaged airbrush needles. The Youtuber, Barbatos Rex, recently posted a video on the use of this product. In conjunction with the SharpenAir, he also used a polishing product called Flitz. I recently repaired a Harder & Steenbeck 0.2 mm needle. After buying a used airbrush, I could see the hook bent into the end of the needle. Based on Barbatos Rex' recommendation, I purchased some Flitz, so that now I can give the needle a final finishing polish. Here's a link to the video: Edit: The Flitz I purchased has a black cap, the same as in the video. I'm not sure if the colour of the cap (black plastic vs. white plastic) has any bearing on the nature of the product. Edited June 6, 2021 by Bill Eh? Added information.
peteski Posted June 6, 2021 Posted June 6, 2021 (edited) In my 35+ years of using Badger 200 airbrush I bent the needle once. I just bought a new one. They are not very expensive. But it is good to know that there is a handy tool to fix/sharpen airbrush needles. Thanks Bill! I don't use Flitz, but a similar product called Top Brite polish. Edited June 6, 2021 by peteski
carbuilder1950 Posted November 3, 2021 Posted November 3, 2021 In all my years of painting, I still use my old Testors plastic cheapy airbrushes. Never could get the hang of using a dual action brush. I just crank the air pressure up and blow 'er on. Works great for me ?.
Vito321 Posted November 26, 2021 Posted November 26, 2021 I have a Harbor Freight air compressor that I use mostly for filling tires. It's 1/3 hp, 110 psi, 3 gallon tank. I have a HF pressure regulator as well. Would this system be adequate for use with an air brush? Thanks for the suggestions.
Xingu Posted November 26, 2021 Posted November 26, 2021 Yes, this would work. Use a water separator/trap to keep the moisture out.
Kevinch Posted January 5, 2022 Posted January 5, 2022 For Christmas, I received my first ever air brush - a Badger Air Brush Model 105 Patriot. Now I need to make it operable by hooking up a compressor, & I could use some help. Money is NOT the #1 consideration; I don't want to spend more than I have to but I don't need the cheapest unit available either. This compressor will in all likelihood only ever be used with an airbrush. I have a Harbor Freight 1.5HP, 6 Gallon, 150 PSI unit in the garage for inflating tires & other light duty but it makes enough noise to wake up the dead. Most of my painting will be done in my basement & the HF unit won't be used in the house. So noise level is very important, I need something relatively quiet. I also want a unit with a storage tank. Other than that, I don't really know what to look for. I know I want a good performing compressor though. I'll be painting mostly 1:24 or 1:25 scale models. Also: what do I need to hook up between the compressor & the AB? I know I need a hose, but what type? Can someone tell me what size fitting attaches to my AB? Are quick disconnects available & recommended? I know these are probably annoying newbie questions - any help is truly appreciated! Thanks, Kevin
Miatatom Posted January 6, 2022 Posted January 6, 2022 Go to Harbor Freight and get their smallest Ultracet model. It's about $150. I'm realy happy with mine. It's quiet enough that it sits below my booth.
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