TheRX7Project Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 I've been working on a '31 Ford Model A (Revell) over the past couple weeks and have learned a few things. #1: There is always glue on my thumb when handling painted parts. Always. Remember that part you glued 3 hours ago, and got a little glue on your thumb? It's still wet. #2: Even big parts can get lost. Such as the driveshaft and rear-end center section piece. #3: No matter how smooth it looks, no matter how smooth it feels, it's not smooth yet. #4: "Skill 3" apparently is code for "these molds were designed by someone who never intended on putting this model together. We purposely placed mold lines and pin marks in the most obvious places, on the front side of parts." #5: Apparently my thumbnail is harder than lacquer paint. #6: Just because you can see it, doesn't mean you can paint it. To be continued...
Casey Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 I've been working on a '31 Ford Model A (Revell) You could've stopped right there. The '60s era Revell kits can be very fiddly and a real challenge to assemble.
Ace-Garageguy Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 (edited) Which reminds me...I need to get your driveshaft in the mail today. Sorry. Add to your list: #7: People who promise to send your parts quickly sometimes don't. Edited April 9, 2013 by Ace-Garageguy
CrazyGirl Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 that reminds me , send Bill that engine pack , !!
Evilbenny Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 #8 A hobby knife that wont cut what you need it to will go through your finger like it was soft butter. #9 When you get that perfect flawless color on the body the clear will craze or fog up if you dont drop it first.
TheRX7Project Posted April 9, 2013 Author Posted April 9, 2013 #8 A hobby knife that wont cut what you need it to will go through your finger like it was soft butter. #9 When you get that perfect flawless color on the body the clear will craze or fog up if you dont drop it first. On the note of these two, I decided this morning I was going to rub the body parts with rubbing compound before I clear coat them. I broke off a door hinge, and there are two nicks in the paint now. I've determined that I'm just going to go ahead with the clear coating. Perfection be damned.
CrazyGirl Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 perfection be damned ??? turn in your Union Model Builders Card
johnbuzzed Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 Your last #80 drill bit will break while opening the third hole in the distributor cap.
blunc Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 the bare metal foil will stick to everything but the model. your pet will want attention right when you have the smallest part of your model held in your tweezers.
Custom Hearse Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 #2: Even big parts can get lost. Such as the driveshaft and rear-end center section piece. But when you misplace the body, that's when you know it's time for a new hobby!
Gramps2u Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 (edited) #13. Small parts always fly aimlessly into the abyss while holding them in your tweezers. Edited April 9, 2013 by Gramps2u
Deathgoblin Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 #13. Small parts always fly aimlessly into the abyss while holding them in your tweezers. Amen! Done this several times. I was building a 57 Chevy and launched the heater motor/duct off somewhere into the living room. I heard it click off one of the walls and it was gone.
wgflatliner Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 #14. When (there is no if) you drop a part on the carpet, the piece you dropped will defy the laws of physics and land nowhere near where you dropped it.
Quick GMC Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 #14. Vacuuming is the best way to find those small parts you dropped last week #15. Super glue won't stick the PE parts together, but it'll glue your fingers together nicely. Or a towel to your hand.
Lunajammer Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 #16. Liquid glue will shoot down every crack and low spot to glue everything else on your piece and leave your target spot high and dry.
Tom Geiger Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 your pet will want attention right when you have the smallest part of your model held in your tweezers. And right when you have wet glue on the parts... That's usually when the phone rings!
signguy2108 Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 NEVER try to catch a hobby knife that rolls off the table, I speak from experience!
JunkPile Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 Lesson # 17 Do not use teeth to open stuck lid on super glue
uncle potts Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 Lesson # 17 Do not use teeth to open stuck lid on super glue Did you try that one, Chuck?
JunkPile Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 I can not talk about it at this time. Lips stuck together. Thanks for your concern.
MikeyB08 Posted April 9, 2013 Posted April 9, 2013 Lesson #18: That part that you ever so slightly super glued in the wrong spot and/or angle will now never move unless you break it.
Erik Smith Posted April 10, 2013 Posted April 10, 2013 Lesson # 17 Do not use teeth to open stuck lid on super glue Never hold the super glue lid in your teeth as an extra hand and try to put the lid back on the bottle while holding tweezers with a tiny part in your other hand and then forget you missed the cap after you glue the part on and close your lips. I'm not even sure that makes sense.
Chief Joseph Posted April 10, 2013 Posted April 10, 2013 This applies to the scratchbuilders: Lesson #19: After you've finished scratchbuilding a part and you look at another picture of the real thing, you will immediately see something that you did wrong on your version.
Gramps2u Posted April 10, 2013 Posted April 10, 2013 (edited) I can not talk about it at this time. Lips stuck together. Thanks for your concern. OH! so you was the guy at the hobby shop that wouldn't speak! LOL Edited April 10, 2013 by Gramps2u
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