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1/25 Revell Mustang 5.0 LX Drag Racer


bad0210

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As I stated earlier. I will buy several if they fix the body. I will not hold my nose and buy one if they don't. I have seen one built, and it looks too funky to sit on my shelf. (Having owned a few real Fox coupes, I have a pretty strong feel for the proportions, and this misses by enough to look out of place to my eyes.) If they were blowing these out at Wal Mart for $4.99, I would buy one for the drag parts, but at $20something a pop, there are too many other kits that I can buy and build. It's Revell's choice now. They can empty my wallet, or I can build some Moebius or Japanese kits instead.

No crying, whining or personal attacks here, just the facts. I have a stash that will outlast several lifetimes of building. I don't need new kits, unless they cover a "Gotta have it" subject matter, or they are so good that I can't resist. Some of the repops catch my attention,for nostalgia like the '63 'Vette, but I am trying not to buy anything that I don't plan to build soon. I am making a rule that I can't buy a kit without completing one from the stash first, plus I am building the kits that I buy fairly soon. I would like to add a fleet of Drag and street Mustangs to the shelf, but I won't spend a hundred or so bucks to do it if they aren't really nice. There are too many kits vying for my money and closet space that are very nicely done. I tend to pick only the best now.

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I'm just saying, having owned two LX 5.0 notchbacks, being a police officer, my old neighbor in Florida being a trooper driving a Mustang, and my cousin being a trooper in Nevada having driven one, this is a car very near and dear to my heart. I originally was going to buy dozens, to build all of the SSP's in state service, however, after buying just one, to see how bad it is...and after talking to Ed Sexton at an IPMS Nats where our vendor table was across from RM's, I am very disappointed with the body on this kit. So much so, I may build my old AAM resin one, or buy the new resin kit. Its such a shame, they still have a chance to make it right, but that new drag body looks the same....

Jeff

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Jeff,

What did Ed say about it? Same as the email quoted above?

I agree it's a bummer to have to buy a resin body to convert a new kit to an ACCURATE replica, but at least an accurate resin body is available for those who want accurate.

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  • 1 month later...

10325299_10202808589068615_2018510146698

10151867_10202808588708606_3497667702103

Ed Sexton said today in person: the roof isn't being fixed because there weren't enough complaints about it. W T F!!!!!!!!!!! So yes. Revell accepts the misproportions of the kit. But, Ed did take notice of my frustrations with the kit. lol.

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10151867_10202808588708606_3497667702103

Ed Sexton said today in person: the roof isn't being fixed because there weren't enough complaints about it. W T F!!!!!!!!!!! So yes. Revell accepts the misproportions of the kit. But, Ed did take notice of my frustrations with the kit. lol.

I thought his excuse was that the internet and message forums "don't count" as complaints as far as Revell is concerned?

Incidentally I don't see the "Pony" wheels on that runner board, so this thing still can't be built as the "draftsman drawing" on the first kit's instructions showed...and the Pony decals linger on wondering what their purpose in life is at this point.

Edited by niteowl7710
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If they (Revell) made corrections in the body, I'll be buying one, otherwise, there are a lot of model kits out there for me to buy.

Yeah, see the Moebius post...

Plus, I thought if we complained, they would stop making them...

This kit may suffer long term from the inaccuracies - fool me once, shame on me...

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Ed Sexton said today in person: the roof isn't being fixed because there weren't enough complaints about it. W T F!!!!!!!!!!! So yes. Revell accepts the misproportions of the kit.

This kit may suffer long term from the inaccuracies - fool me once, shame on me...

As much as I dislike it, I don't think anyone here is too surprised that Revell considers the notchback body "done". I agree though - long term they are just not going to be able to sell nearly as many of these as compared to if it had a correct body. We can only hope that when they bring out the inevitable hatchback variation in a few years, they'll make more of an effort to get it right.

If I run across one of these on discount some time in the future, I'll probably get one, but no way would I pay normal list price - there are way too many more worthy candidates for my $. I do consider it a vote: if Revell sells enough of these, their conclusion is that the majority of buyers aren't concerned about proportional accuracy, therefore the "close enough" method of operation prevails. I keep thinking back to the story from the '80s about one of the MPC higher-ups actually bragging about how many million General Lee kits they sold, even though the roof was incorrect.

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Just like with Revell's lousy '69 Nova, I'll buy one, correct it as best I can (with a hatch back roof),build it and never consider buying another one. Just like with the Nova, if it had been right, I would have bought several.

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I thought his excuse was that the internet and message forums "don't count" as complaints as far as Revell is concerned?

Incidentally I don't see the "Pony" wheels on that runner board, so this thing still can't be built as the "draftsman drawing" on the first kit's instructions showed...and the Pony decals linger on wondering what their purpose in life is at this point.

A couple of months ago, I asked the person who had corrected the roof height and other discrepancies, why not sending a resin copy of the reworked body to Revell?

I think that, together with actual measurements would've made the difference between internet talk and fact and figures...

Whining even in large numbers doesn't change anything.

Just my 2 cents..

Edited by Luc Janssens
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;) Wow, interesting I dropped in on this! I've seen a recently released and suddenly rare Revell '57 Chevy shown under the "StreetBurner" series. I happen to own the unopened sea foam green '55 Chevy under the same series and have yet to open it. However, it appears to be structured on the same platform and mold as the Shoebox Ford, various releases of Glidden/Iaconia cars, the '57 Soff Seal Chevy pro mod, etc.

My point is: the '57 Chevy I first mentioned was red with yellow flames and a smaller wing on the box, as well as less "ferocious" drag wheels. However, an everyday builder assembled one with no detailing and it was just as bad-a$$ as the rest of the kits mentioned.

I owned, street drove and raced a Vortech S-trimmed 342 (too much volume and not enough blower) '93 Mustang Hatch that regularly ran in the high 10's @ high 120's on 15x9 M/T slicks with a stock T-5 trans. Frankly, I don't see any glaring differences between the picture above and mine except for the hatch vs. the coupe and perhaps the kit manufacturer toning down the intent of the car. I could cobble a twin or a single turbo setup to a cool box in the passenger front seat area and into a breadbox intake. Look up the National Mustang Racing Association website or NMRA (even NSCA for "street car") and you should find a zillion of these.

Some models like McEwens '57 flopper went as far as to include a twin filter dry sump piece and a twin mag for the molded 16 plug holes. Most of the first kits I mentioned include Lenco shifters and the top sportsman/pro mods on NOS had the bottles in the back.

I don't know if this kit has come out, but I'd throw my hat in the ring and build a single turbo version with a cool box. I've got more than enough spare wheels, tires and shortened 9" Ford rear setups to make it look like the real deal. ;)

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BTW, seeing the passion and content of the pages on this topic, I want to make sure I haven't insulted anyone or their opinions. I guess at 57 my memory is really going off the deep end. Yes, the resin body is fantastic and yes, I'd want it before any other options. However, money isn't as available as it was in the past and if the stock kit went on sale for $10, I'd buy one or two for a primary "Frankenstein II" and keep the other for emergency parts or my junkyard. Peace all.

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No Mitch, no insults, its mostly a great kit except for the roofline on the body, which takes major repair to fix. This led to one of the awesome resin casters here to make a new one for sale. Its just that its a shame given the opportunity for a newly tooled kit to have such a big flaw...

Jeff

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Now I'll have to search my pics to find some old ones of mine to judge the body lines! It was originally red and all stock. Then came the usual inexpensive upgrades: 24lb injectors, a Powerdyne blower (remember those?), a 190lph in the tank, an Edelbrock chinese rip-off intake 65mm MAS and a clutch.

Next stage was 36lb injectors, a different spring rate to work the fuel diaphram harder, a 240 in the tank, a Vortech T-trim (fit the P-dyne brackets perfectly), 70mm MAF and a Rick Anderson programming unit that read off a real header mounted A/F sensor. It would pass VA smog every year at 14:7 and then open up to 11.5 under full boost. I ran the X cam in it with Ford Y heads and the programming unit would let me adjust every parameter from start to idle to each 100 rpm block of A/F.

Those were the days... I finally used the last of my money at Maaco having the entire car repainted 1993 Prowler Yellow (yeah, waste of money), but I got tired of looking at the 3.5" cowl hood in faded 'glass. I also had the sheetmetal prostock style spoiler riveted to the rear deck and Welds all around. It was a bit scary running 3.5" up front and 9" in the rear. However, Hoosier had just come out with a drag radial front to go with my M/T rears so it wasn't like Chris (lime green coupe) and some of the other NMRA racers running 325x10x15 radials on the rear and non radials on the front!

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Despite its flaws, I still like the kit. i will perform a trick visually to give the illusion of a taller roof. Cutting out the pl;astic that replicates the rubber gasket that seals the window from leaks. Not a cure all, but does make it appear taller. I spoke with Mr. Sexton at Milwaukee NNL and asked about the roof. He said they were not going to retool over a .020 difference.

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  • 1 month later...

x2. I had the very same thought. That's WHY we build models. If there's a problem, fix it. While I agree that for the cost, more attention to details could/should have been given, but it is what it is. Not the end of the world. I like the new drag car version a lot!! B)

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That actually brings up a very good question: just where is there any explicit mandate about fixing problems in building models?

The actual definition of modeling entails crafting a miniature that's as close a representation of a full-size prototype as possible. To borrow a phrase people like to use a lot - but to consider that phrase completely now, including the less convenient aspect of it - there's no such thing as a perfect kit.

Meaning, even model kits that capture the 1:1 look very closely are apt to present problems in the building - and this is where some problem-solving might be IMPLIED. But there isn't the first iota of anything rational obliging you to address stuff incumbent on the kit manufacturer to execute properly, on top of the problems you might reasonably expect to be inherent in assembly.

Now is there a certain measure of satisfaction in addressing some of those issues? In having more correct drip moldings and more accurate wheel arches in your build than pretty much any other one you've seen, in having your model sitting there and looking subtly and quietly more correct than danm near anybody else's attempt at the same kit? There certainly is.

Where the discussion abruptly drops double digits in IQ, though, is to suppose that the modeler who'd rather hold the manufacturer responsible for what it should have done is somehow inherently inferior as a builder, to automatically assume he's either unable or unwilling to fix those problems just because he discusses them.

And there's been plenty of great modeling, btw, involving kits that didn't need their proportions "fixed."

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:lol::DB) The only I.Q drop I see here is continuing to argue with someone who likes to keep beating a dead horse. I wish you well in your campaign to get Revell/ China to change the 0.20 issue for you. you go man!!! meanwhile, I have kits to build B) Wow!! you sifted my last post and found every last nano-bit of a possible slight, implied or otherwise, and turned it into that last post?? you need help dude. That post didn't even concern YOU. .Just where do you get off ASSUMING that I'm even talking to you? Save your overblown analysis and nano arguments for the self appointed purists, or for anyone else on this forum who wants to hear it. I DON'T .You have made it QUITE clear to all and sundry how you feel about this kit. And if you could possibly step out from behind your ego, you would see not EVERYONE shares your opinion!!! If you don't like what I have to say, or don't agree with it, IGNORE IT!! Or better yet, don't buy the FRIGGIN kit!!! Pissing and whining SOLVED!!! I have never seen someone go more out of their way to get offended by a post that didn't even CONCERN them in the first place!!!! I specifically chose a post that I agreed with to reply to, not trolling for an argument, or trying to carve up a post to continue an existing argument like you. Direct your argument in another direction pal!! IE NOT MINE!!!

Edited by bismarck
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