slusher Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 Here in the last couple months I have had some building setbacks due to my disability of Multiple Sclerosis. I seem to have lost the ability to cut foil straight on long body lines and chrome. Now I foiled a back glass and a windshield last month but now I seem to not be able to cut it straight at all. I have been doing it left handed and i was a right handed person. So now seems foiling may be gone. So far I can still build. I don't know if any fellow builders had problems building and detailing....?
Jeremy Jon Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 (edited) Hi Carl, I'm sorry to hear that! I don't know an immediate answer, the commonly used BMF is pretty fragile, and tedious to cut well at the best of times Is masking out the trim and spraying with something like duplicolor chrome an option? For masking this, I like to use the thin Tamiya tape first for curves, then use the wider tape (+ masking paper/plastic) over lapping on to the thin tape (it doesn't have to be precise, as the thin tape defines the painted edge) From there, a few light coats misted on should suffice I'd certainly be willing to pre-cut a bunch of BMF for you. if that'd help? Edited March 1, 2014 by Jeremy Jon
Chuck Kourouklis Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 Sorry to hear about that, Carl. I can tell you that wherever possible, I prefer to cut straight lines directly on the foil sheet with a straight edge and then apply it to a body, rather than trimming right on the body after application. This requires you estimating the shape of the foil you need before you put it on, but that's a skill you might acquire more quickly than you'd expect. Doing it in this order might afford you the advantage of getting your hand something to steady it as you make the cut - think it would be practical to adapt your technique this way?
Guest Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 When you need a model foiled Carl, just send it to me. I'll be glad to do it for you. Foil work is one of my favorite things to do. I may get you to do one of of your great paint jobs for me sometime in exchange. For a long time after my back surgery, my hands shook badly and I couldn't do any kind of detail work for a long time. So, I can kinda understand your frustration.
Guest Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 Carl, sad to hear of the problems, pm sent my friend.
cobraman Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 Hey Carl ! I am sorry to hear when anyone who loves to do something has to give it up or have increasing difficulty. If you just like building cars perhaps you can build more of a "rat rod" type which uses little to no BMF or maybe military stuff ????? BTW, I sent you something so be on the lookout !
pharoah Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 Hi Carl, Sorry to hear about this. I have a good friend and neighbor who's been dealing with MS for almost 20 years. I feel we're going to be hearing more about things like this as the 'Boomers' start getting older. I can't detail as much as I would like to because of my eyes. My vision is about 20/70. For those of you that may not know,that is the second line on the eye chart. I use the strongest Optivisur I could get,and sometimes,it's still not enough. There's no way I can put on spark plug wires and teensy things like that. Just do what you can as long as you still enjoy it.
Jeff Johnston Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 Like Roger, I'd be more than happy to BMF your bodies and send them back to you. A tip; I don't know if this helps, but I cut quite a bit larger piece tan I need (so I can hold it) and try to stick the BMF right on the edge of where I need it, so I don't have to trim much on the outside of the body. So for example if I am doing a windshield, I will cut the straight line on the BMF sheet using a ruler, then stick it exactly where it needs to go do I do not have to trim it. Ten I fold it under inside the interior. So if you can picture this... all of my extra BMF is stuck inside the interior...so rather than trimming it along the fine lines on the outside of the car, you would trim it on the inside. and.... because you can't see that you can have a less than straight line. If you have some wave to the trim line, it gets covered up when you paint the headliner. I was also getting frustrated with BMF'ing because my eye sight isn't what it used to be even 5 years ago. So I find it easier to stick it where it goes on the outside, and trim it in the inside. You still have a little trimming to do on the outside, but not those straight lines. JJ
cobraman Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 Carl, I too would be happy to do the BMF for you but the truth is I am not that good at it and my results are ........ lets just say less than perfect.
slusher Posted March 1, 2014 Author Posted March 1, 2014 Some good advice guys and help. I may try the straight edge and start to measure length and try that also. I have several bodies done and was trying to foil a 66 cutlass., I am going to try and see what I can do with the advice given. I know all of us have things that are hard for us to do. I never plan on giving up. I have several trucks to do no foil.
Harry P. Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 Carl... sorry to hear this. But you have the right idea...keep building. What Ray said is a good idea... maybe try a subject that doesn't need foil at all (or very little). Who knows, you might like it!
ewaskew Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 Sorry to here that Carl,however it looks like you have a lot of friends willing to do it for you. I can't do the BMF thing myself. When I do trim, I just mask and paint also,its been said but maybe you can go that way when trimming one out. God Bless
Ramfins59 Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 I go along with what everyone has said Carl. I also would be more than happy to help you out in any way that I can. Hang in there buddy.
Agent G Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 (edited) I was recently informed that an old gunshot injury is what is causing numbness in my left hand/arm. I'm told it may effect the total use of the arm down the road. Thank goodness I'm right handed. I'm sorry to hear this bro, just keep at. Building something else which doesn't require that particular skill is a good idea. G Edited March 1, 2014 by Agent G
A.R.C. Posted March 1, 2014 Posted March 1, 2014 I hope this is of some help Carl. A trick I use on some models that have too faint of a line to follow is to tape the outside edge of the area you want to Foil ( I prefer to use a good vinyl painters tape such as 3m Fine Line simply because to adheres well to any shape, forms well around a tight curve and is you can emboss a much nicer line againt it than against a regular masking tape). Once the tape is laid down do your foiling and then emboss it down to your surface making sure you form a nice crisp line against the edge of the tape. This gives a very defined line to follow with your blade which in your case may make it easier to cut a straight line. After cutting is finished simply pull of the tape and you usaully get a nice result. I`ve even found that running your fingernail on that line a few times will cut through the bmf and leave you with a line that is just as nice as if you`ve cut it with a blade. I`ve done this on a few curves that are too tough to follow with a blade and have had very good results. Ultimately...just keep building and enjoy it man. The quality of your builds are always extremely good anyway, even without bmf.
disabled modeler Posted March 2, 2014 Posted March 2, 2014 I am sorry to hear that Carl buddy... I have many challenges building about 1/2 the time myself...its one of the reasons I never foil any of my builds I just simply paint in the trim seems to be easier for me to do. Ill never give up building...I cant...you shouldn't ether you have talent and can find a way around most handicaps building...me when its a bad day I do very little or none till I have a better day. As you know I have very little feeling in my hands most of the time but I figured out how to get around it for the most part...patience is the key and the build only has to make you happy...were always happy to see them and learn from them buddy. Like you my condition will never get any better only worse but you will find another route to build them..If I can anyone can.
Skip Posted March 2, 2014 Posted March 2, 2014 (edited) Carl, Sorry to hear this. I sort of understand what you're going through. I'm sort of a gimp too. Over thirty years ago I had a severe bruise and a cut to my right ulnar nerve (that's your Funny Bone on the elbow) it affects half my middle, ring and little fingers with both numbness and dexterity issues as well as part of my arm elbow down, I'm right handed for the most part. I know it is not the same issue as what you are going through right now; you learn to cope, you learn to do things differently, you learn to work with what you've got. Hopefully you learn to accept what you've been dealt with grace and humor; I know I laugh at some of the goofy stuff that've happened or happen to me as a result of my weird sense of feeling. My fingers want to draw up towards the palm and my wrist wants to curl under slightly when tired; I was at work doing something with a contractor who asked if I was trying to throw gang signs or something! I guess to someone who didn't know it does look something weird like that. I've learned to laugh about goofy stuff like that. What else can you do! About the foil. I remember seeing a guy cutting vinyl for a sign using an xacto knife that had a spacer between two blades in one handle, the strips were about 1/16 +\- wide. I will assume that he had to widen the slot in the collet that holds the blade into the handle to get the blades and spacer into it. Ok now that we've got the set up; here's the application. Use the thicker adhesive backed metal tape, I think it's sold as muffler repair tape. Next use a metal ruler which is either held by hand or by clamp to a thin board, sand which the metal tape between and cut the strips. Could also be done with a single blade too, more consistent with two blades. You could use this method to cut the adhesive backed Mylar as well. Both products are more forgiving than the BMF, both give a chrome like result. Edited for spelling issue not caught by iPad. Edited March 2, 2014 by Skip
slusher Posted March 2, 2014 Author Posted March 2, 2014 Sorry to here that Carl,however it looks like you have a lot of friends willing to do it for you. I can't do the BMF thing myself. When I do trim, I just mask and paint also,its been said but maybe you can go that way when trimming one out. God Bless I hope this is of some help Carl. A trick I use on some models that have too faint of a line to follow is to tape the outside edge of the area you want to Foil ( I prefer to use a good vinyl painters tape such as 3m Fine Line simply because to adheres well to any shape, forms well around a tight curve and is you can emboss a much nicer line againt it than against a regular masking tape). Once the tape is laid down do your foiling and then emboss it down to your surface making sure you form a nice crisp line against the edge of the tape. This gives a very defined line to follow with your blade which in your case may make it easier to cut a straight line. After cutting is finished simply pull of the tape and you usaully get a nice result. I`ve even found that running your fingernail on that line a few times will cut through the bmf and leave you with a line that is just as nice as if you`ve cut it with a blade. I`ve done this on a few curves that are too tough to follow with a blade and have had very good results. Ultimately...just keep building and enjoy it man. The quality of your builds are always extremely good anyway, even without bmf. Thanks Earl and Adam for 2 more great tips. I am grateful for the encouragement guys and I have builds in the works and some older ones yet to get posted. I am going to put all of these tips and encourage ment posts together and print them for my model file in my desk....
Chuck Kourouklis Posted March 2, 2014 Posted March 2, 2014 Yeah! Adam's idea sounds so good, I might have to give it a try.
mole53 Posted March 2, 2014 Posted March 2, 2014 Carl, (great name) I'm sorry to here about your problem, I can relate to to your plight. A little over a year ago I was doing some work on my table saw, with a dull blade, no guard and in a hurry. The outcome was not pretty, all the fingers on my left hand where damaged,almost severing my index finger. After two surgeries and countless hours of p.t. I am permenently flipping the bird at the world. This past year has been rough, looking at all the great works on this forum and trying and failling to do the simplist task, I just now feel comfortable enough to mess with plastic again. The reason I'm telling you all this is don't give up, I really can't give you any personal advice about foiling except to try some of the excellant tips that you've been given and learn and adapt.
disabled modeler Posted March 2, 2014 Posted March 2, 2014 That is the spirit Carl.... Like they and i have said you will find a way around the new problems buddy...you have seen my 69 Plymouth wagon build in my photobucket here...done that one with very little feeling in my hands and fingers just took me longer--a month alone on the body work. With my spine injuries and nerve damage I have learned new ways to get passed them...you will too...just try and practice on some un-important items to see what works for you.
charlie8575 Posted March 2, 2014 Posted March 2, 2014 Carl, First of all, as you've already determined to do- don't give up. Sticking to it is good for you mentally and emotionally, and it might even help you in some ways combat the effects of MS. Having known people with it, I understand the frustrations and misery you're enduring right now and it's a very hard thing to not do the things you love, or do them as well. This board, I think, will provide you with the support and backing you need to get through it all. You've had some good ideas presented to you, and I fully endorse the concept of giving them a shot and seeing what works well for you. May I suggest also the idea of using the cheap, thin kitchen foil that's sold at discount stores? It's a little heavier than BMF, but still works well. Micro-Scale makes a liquid that's designed to work as an adhesive, and it works well. This might take some experimenting, but it might be a good option for you moving forward. Whatever you do, keep at it. We're all in your corner. Charlie Larkin
James2 Posted March 2, 2014 Posted March 2, 2014 Hang in there brother! You may being going through a change. Everyone's skills diminish over time, I know I am past my prime! You could try shorting up the run by stopping in corners or at panel lines. This won't help with the issue of MS, but it may boost your confidence. As a wise man once said, "When all else fails ask the Good LORD for help... Ps124:8
Modelbuilder Mark Posted March 2, 2014 Posted March 2, 2014 A couple things I have heard that help. Just prior to cutting make sure that not only is the foil all burnished down and ready, but some folks even run a sharp pencil along the line to be cut, thus prepping or lubricating the cut line prior to running your blade along the line. Another option that I have heard some folks use is using tape AFTER you apply the foil. Say you run a line of foil over the side trim, and instead of trying to cut a straight line, you take some pin stripe or paint tape like Tamiya, and then lay it along the edge. That way whn you cut, the holds the blade in line like a guide. Good luck, and build on.
Tom Geiger Posted March 2, 2014 Posted March 2, 2014 Carl, I just finished BMFing a Chevette. What tiny little lines of foil! Are you cutting the BMF by holding the knife in the air and moving it along the trim? There's a few things I've learned to do to make it steadier. First you want to rest your cutting hand against something for steadiness. A guy in our club who hand painted lettering on models showed us how he steadied his painting hand. He used either a bean bag or a bag of M&Ms as a hand rest. I tried it and it worked like magic since it contours itself to your hand. Second, with the hand steadied on a rest as described above, hold the knife steady and with your left hand move the model body across the knife. I do this one a lot. Also for steadiness and so I can see the blasted thing, sometimes I'm BMFing with the model body against my chest. This all works for me, and I'm pretty good at BMF. Hope it helps! Good luck buddy!
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