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The Chrysler Norseman emerges from the depths...of my resin vat.
Pico replied to Pico's topic in WIP: Model Cars
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Yes, it is important to use hard cutting surface, and glass or ceramic tile is the old standby. However those are so hard that they quickly dull the cutting blade. I used to use them at first, but then I started using a piece of 1/16" thick or similar sheet aluminum as the cutting surface. It is hard enough to prevent the photoetched item being cut from distorting, yet it is soft enough not to appreciably dull the cutting blade. Works really well.
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That's beautiful! You made something amazing out of that "old tool".
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Wild Tow
ksnow replied to modelcarbuildermag.com's topic in Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
Wild build! Love all the details. -
That's sweet! You do some amazing work.
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Weathering techniques question
Beans replied to JerseeJerry55's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Another tip that I forgot: Using a lead pencil will give you a shiny areas that can replicate metal nicely over flat black, darker greys or gunmetal. (see the shovel, machine gun and tracks on the above model) Oh and don't forget the interior. -
Very nice! I couldn't wait to grab one of these kits when they came out. Of course, it's still sealed and sitting on my rack with the others, Lol.
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Excellent info Gary, thanks. Indeed the body is a bit shallow, thinking of extending the lower body sides. Lots to think about, should be a fun project.
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Weathering techniques question
Beans replied to JerseeJerry55's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
One thing I remember from back in my armor building days is a little weathering can go a long way. I tend to have to stop myself. I find an affect I like and its easy to overdo it.. I like to use pastel chalks that I run across some sandpaper and grind down to powder. You can either just dump it on and blow off the excess or lightly brush it on. I have even wet a spot and let it dissolve in the water and clump and dry. This is a 1/76 armor piece weathered using a wash, dry brush, then pastel powder. -
Wild Tow
ncbuckeye67 replied to modelcarbuildermag.com's topic in Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
That's pretty awesome! -
Moebius 1964 Mercury Comet Pro Touring
Mark replied to Justin Porter's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
If you put the Moebius Comet and AMT Fairlane parts side by side, they'll look awfully similar. Same goes for Moebius versus AMT Ford pickup chassis, and Moebius '61 versus AMT '62 Pontiacs. -
'73 Dodge 2WD step side
ncbuckeye67 replied to 2doors3pedals's topic in Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
Nicely done! I love that green. -
Yeah, I always bid in the last 10 sec, usually successful.
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Do you seal the foam with anything before painting?
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I've always loved these things. Would love to find a real one and drop a WRX engine in. Wonderful build.
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I've built this one. Once last year and when I was in my teens. A lot of people talk smack about it, but it's a good build. Good luck rounding up ya bits. Model on.
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!!!!!! Words escape me!
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Ahhhhh that's the key!!! All great information!! I find that putting the PE parts on a piece of doubled over masking tape help from the little parts shooting up into the air, never to be seen again.
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If the item you want is a typical eBay auction (as opposed to a fixed price "Buy it Now"), remember, you only need to be high bidder for one second. The last one. Don't get into a whizzing match with anyone three days before the thing ends, just watch, wait, and pounce at the end.
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Just found out from my mechanic that my '01 Saab 95 has a blown head gasket. The coolant wouldn't circulate & I thought the thermostat was stuck shut. Put new tires on it earlier this year & had $300.00 worth of work put in it just 3 wks. ago.😢
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Well there goes that plan....Maybe i'll compromise and drink as I do it.
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thank you