tim boyd

Ace....thanks for taking the time to post your comments and show the difference via the AI/photoshop work. My build was intended to show the kit-based parts and how easy it is to use them in a model build. The additional changes you show are possible but would probably add considerably to the workload. There aren't many 1/1s running around with added fadeaways, but the ones I am familiar with do generally show a bit of dip in the body to fadeaway join around the cowl area, rather than a straight line through that area. I suppose that was/is a design choice to be made by the various builders involved. I just checked the Modern Rodding car and it appears sort of in the middle between my original and your redo. Anyway, thx again for the comments, and if any of you are considering finding this old kit and doing the conversion, please keep Ace's suggestions in mind....TIM

Posting some combo photos of these two here. These were both built from the Ala-Kart style parts in the Round 2 2015-ish release of the "Mod Rod" Model A 2 in 1 kit. Those not familiar with that kit would want to know it is about 90-95% of the original 1962 AMT Model A/AlaKart Trophy Series Double Kit. Both of these models use the cab, pickup box, and frame from these Mod Rod/AlaKart parts. While they are similar in other ways, too (both use shades of green paint, both are built with a primarily post-WWII to mid 1950s home-built hot rod vibe, both use cut-down fender splash aprons from the '29A parts in the same kit), they are also very different (one uses a Flathead Ford V8 with VCG Resins by Reese accessories, the other uses the Model A Banger engine from the new ICM 1930 Ford Phaeton kit with hot rod parts added from the Mod Rod, Revell mid-1960s tooling Model A kits, and VCG Resins), and one employs a modified AlaKart interior while the other replicates a cab interior that is yet to be upholstered. The wheels and tires vary (one set from a Heller 1951 Formula 1 Grand Prix kit, the other being the new Norm Veber early original AMT 1936 Ford Trophy Series wide five rims with the correctly molded vents). One shows the R&M of MD Kinmont front discs and the other the Buick/Ford drum brakes from the Revell new Model A kits. The Flat/Satin Dark Green one was built first. A full buildup appeared in Model Cars magazine issue #226, and I posted detailed images here a while back for those who missed the mag feature. The other one showed up, also as a full build feature, in Fine Scale Modeler (July /Augst issue IIRC) this summer, and I will post full coverage and detail images of this one at a later time. I suspect you will have no issues tracking down either of those issues if you to see the step-by-step accounting of how both these models came together. Finally, I want to post a shoutout to one of our favorite hot rod modelers and 1/1 scale rod builders here, Dennis Lacy, for some of the inspiration and build steps that I used in the Fine Scale Modeler feature. Thanks 'Bro for the inspiration!!!! Appreciate your interest and happy to answer any questions you might have. Cheers....TIM

When the Revell 1948 Ford Chopped Custom debuted about 15 years ago, I did an on-line feature on the kit and included photos showing how to add the optional "fadeaway" fender extensions in the kit. Soon thereafter, Gregg contacted me about adapting the feature for the mag, but for whatever reason, it never came to be. Fast forward to 22 November 2025, as the new issue of Modern Rodding magazine (which I view as the spiritual successor to the old Street Rodder mag) arrived in the mailbox today. Included is an article on adding fadeaways to a 1/1 scale '48 Ford Coupe, and lo and behold, on page 79 is a photo of what sure looks like the Revell kit with the fadeaways added, which apparently was a key reference in conducting the 1/1 transformation featured in the mag. So....I am going to excerpt here some of the steps from the online article (you can read the whole feature here, including interior/engine/chassis/front and rear changes) with the step-by-step instructions on adding the scale fadeaways. And be sure to check out that new issue of Modern Rodding mag if you want to see how they did it in 1/1. Thanks for looking... TIM **************** 1. In this On-Line How-To, I'll assemble Revell's new 1948 Ford Chopped Custom Coupe in 100% box stock format. The actual model shown here was the first one made available to a "civilian" model builder outside Revell's own staff, and it was completed for a kit review in the other model car mag (the February 2012 issue, if you have it in your stash). ***** 2. I built my car using the optional fadeaway fender extensions found in the kit. If you want to keep the characteristic fender crease in the front fenders, you'll need to file a similar crease in the front edge of each of the fender extensions as shown here. Hold the fender extension in place and mark the crease with a pencil. Note that I aligned the fender extensions slightly upward (maybe 3/64") from their intended position, to lessen a "hump" from the front fender to the extension, which can be plainly seen on the box art model. ***** 3. Here the fender driver's side fender extension has been glued in place. You can see how much filler will be required here to deliver a smooth transition from the front fender to the fadeaway extension. ***** 4. At this point I began successive operations of filling the gap with CA++ glue, damping the glue joint with a Kleenix, filing the gap and letting the styrene 'bits' collect in the crevice where the glue is still wet, and then sanding the joint some more, repeating the above, again and again. After a while, most of the joint will be filled and will then be ready for some surfacing putty to finish the operation. ***** 5. Here is the same joint on the passenger side, after the successive rounds of applying CA++ glue, sanding, and repeating multiple times. ***** 6. Unlike the front fender joints, the rear fender joints required just the slightest of filing and filling. The horizontal joint of the fender extensions fit so precisely that no filler or CA++ glue was required at all. ***** 7. Back to the driver's side front fender joint, I again marked the line of the fender character line and then ran a file along this line multiple times, to carry the character line back into the fadeaway fender. ***** 8. At this point, it was time for some body putty. I used automotive grade PPG DFL17 Red Cap Spot Putty. This putty comes in a large tube that can last for a decade's worth of modeling projects (my last tube actually lasted for two decades!). ***** 9. As soon as the putty dries (about 1/2 hour or so), sand the joint with sandpaper wrapped around a ruler or some other stiff backing. After sanding, the results should look like these joints on the driver's side of the body. ***** 10. Here are the same surfaces on the passenger side of the body. Do your best to preserve the front fender character line when you sand the joint as shown here. ***** 11. After a second round of bodywork and primer, the joint is again sanded, revealing some sunken areas (in gray) that still need further work. But we're getting close. ***** 12. The joint between the fadeaway extension and the rear fender is just about finished. (You can also see here where I used the kit-supplied taillamp opening fillers and smoothed the joints there as well.) ***** 13. Here's the result of the third round of filing and filling on the driver's side. We are just about there - meaning the joints are almost finished for smooth transition when the body color is applied. ***** 14. After several coats of Testors Lacquer 1996 GM Code 43G Emerald Green Metallic (sadly, no longer available) and Testors One Step Wet Look Clear, you can see the fine paint finish, and also the entirely smooth joints where the fadeaway fender extensions meet the front and rear fenders. ***** 15. A look at the Driver's side reveals a similar result. ***** A few images of the completed project, fadeaways and all. All of the steps of the tutorial/kit build, including interior/engine/chassis/exterior build options are shown at the link posted in the intro paragraph at the beginning of this post. Enjoy....TB

This model was built, if memory serves, for an early Street Rodder magazine Modeler's Corner column comparing it with the AMT '27T Touring kit pictured earlier here in this "Tub posting series". It was built from the Monogram "Early Iron" series kit of their 1930 Ford Phaeton. New wheels were sourced, along with a Halibrand Quick Change for the rear. The paint was, again from memory, an early 1970s GM metallic Turquoise/Teal. I also vaguely recall this model perhaps having been inspired by a similar model David Dale built earlier in his own modeling career..... So....just where are we? How about 7 down,,,3 to go....so stay tuned! Thx for checking it out....TIM

Thx Misha for sharing this one. I am particularly taken with the luggage rack and trunk addition. Very, very sharp! Cheers....TIM

Phil....YOU ROCK! Not sure how I missed this one but now that I've found it....gotta to back and study all your details. Terrific choice of build topic, and you really did it proud with your replica. Thx for sharing! TB

All...I've been away from this thread for a while and just revisited today. So exciting to see the progress on all these projects, the attention to detail, the creative problem solving. And even better, seeing the projects transition from the workbench to the display case. Way to go, all, and congrats to each oand everyone on all the great progress. TIM

Jose....this is very creative work, and thanks for showing some of the build steps. I think your project has great potential and I would like to add my vote to see you take it forward and finish it.... or just keep it the way it is if that makes you the happiest. Either way, way to go...TIM

This was built from the mid-1980's rebox of the 1970's Revell John Buttera series 1927 Ford Touring kit. It was inspired by an art image created by the late Brian Bordon, and and brought to life the kit mods he envisioned that were not fully delivered by the mildly tweaked kit in the box. Mods included a body color grille shell, 1936 Ford style bullet headlamp shells, and a chopped and modified top with wider side panels. The paint was Mopar 1972/73 Code B3 Basin St. Blue/Super Blue, and the graphics were those in the kit as designed by Mr. Bordon. IIRC, the kit engine was also updated with MPC 1987 Mustang GT 5.0L EFI /intake and valve covers. This buildup was featured in my Street Rodder Modeler's Corner column in the late 1980's. More images below, and thanks for looking! TIM *****

thx for the images, Bill....certainly proves your point....best....TB

The least known of AMT's famous Trophy Series "Double Kits" was the XR-6/'27 T Tub kit issued only once in 1963. The '27 T could be built as a restored stock T Tub, or as an early 1960's style hot rod tub as built here straight from the box. The engine was a Frontenac conversion of the T four banger, while the front suspension was a torsion bar style setup. These are the exact wheels and tires included in the kit for this version. The ever-so-briefly popular quad headlamps was a seldom seen early 1960's hot rod design cue. Also note the custom radiator shell..a sectioned version that was different than the restored stock grille shell also included in the kit. The paint is Testors Model Masters Lacquer 1968 Thunderbird Light Diamond Green, with a flat clear overlay. A buildup of this kit was shown in Model Cars Magazine around 2012 or so....thanks for looking.....TIM

Greg....I commend you for addressing that iffy body to fender fit (great solution) and the missing beads on the side of the cowl panel....good luck with finishing the project....TB

Wow....now this is a blast from the past. I remember Dave Wilder (#7) and John Gimmell (#8) from my time doing contract work for AMT in the mid 1970s.....and of course we all know John Mueller (#5) for his work through the end of the 1990s....this advert is a great find for the history of the hobby! Th for posting, Ulf...TB

To the best of my recollection, this was the first of the ten (so far!) "tubs" I've built in my modeling career and is celebrating its "50th" birthday since completion this year. It was built from the 1967 revision of the AMT '27T Phaeton/XR-6 Trophy Series kit released once in 1963 and never reissued, The 1967 update (which is being recreated with a few missing parts restored right now by Round 2 for a 2026 reintroduction) dropped all the XR-6 parts and added a few new parts for the '27T including a super-nice dropped tube axle, (IIRC) an up top with three diamond shaped windows in the back, and a few other updates. At that time, most of the original double kit hot rod hot rod version parts for the '27T were also dropped, including the torsion bar straight front axle, front radius rods, front wire wheels, dual quad headlamps, and so forth. Later versions of that kit included the Hillbilly Hauler, the '27 T Hot Rod Fire Truck, and (with fewer parts) the Laurel and Hardy '27T and most of the other reissues since then. (Another, previous release based on this tool was the "my mother, the car" kit, but that's an anomaly for another time....). Now some may consider a "tub" to be only fenderless "touring" or "phaeton" body styles, but for me both fendered and fenderless versions count. I built the street rod version of the 1967 kit release, adding the rear axle/radius rods from the AMT 1973 "'29A Double Kit" release, and plated front radius rods that may have come from the Revell Anglia kit. The engine was a Ford Pinto I-4, a popular 1/1 scale swap at the time this kit was built around 1975 or so. The "funny far" carpeting actually looks a little better in persons (not as bright as it seems here); I was using this material in most of my hot rod builds at the time. The wire wheels were from the AMT Silhouette and 1965 Riviera kits; the tires were the MPC hollow bigs and littles. The plated windshield frame and engraved wing windows were from the Revell Buttera series '27T kit, which must have been just released at the time. "Resto Rods" were very popular in 1/1 scale at the time, and they were the inspiration for this project. As was the bright green with black fenders color scheme, lifted straight from the late 1960s to early 1970s Rod and Custom magazine features. I remember painting the Testors Candy Green over silver in my parent's upstairs bathroom, then quickly trying to mop up all the green overspray left on the countertops and mirror. Yikes! (I remember do getting all of it, thank goodness). More later....and thanks for checking this out....TIM

I did just as Tom did, and found the same result. The K-Code sprue had very slight warpage on my kit (much less than in the video), but the parts on it were fine. The hood on my RestoMod kit also fit perfectly. If anyone sees a RestoMod hood that is flawed like the one in the video that Alan posted the link to, I encourage them to contact Moebius at the email addy in the instruction sheet; I would expect they would send a new one right away quick. I have two more RestoMod kits that just arrived from Spotlight Hobbies last week, I'll try to dig those out and see if there are any hood warpage issues on those. I also finally had a chance to look at the reversed "Comet' engraving on the passenger side. This is very shallow engraving on the tool, making the letters just slightly raised. About five or 10 gentle swipes with a sanding pad and they'll be gone for a resto-mod build. For a showroom stock or K-Code build, at the 28 minute mark of the video Alan posted above, the reviewer shows a way to foil cast new letters for the passenger side. I would still probably just sand mine off and wait for a future decal badge, either from the aftermarket or perhaps from Moebius should they decide to resolve the issue that way. Thanks for all the comments and all....TB