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Board Maintenance 03/14/2019
The board is going offline Saturday, May 25th, from 9 AM PDT until 3 PM for a software upgrade. See posting in General.
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AMT new tool 57 I got very cheap at a swap about five years ago. It has been stalled for a while. Now I found some good front seats though, which was why it was stalled last time.... Carpet from a towel painted with acrylics, AMT 49 Mercury front seats (from what I've heard, never owned one), and a modified 64 Galaxie XL seat in the rear to get something more bucket like. Tuck n roll on the dash and steering wheel from Monogram 55 Chevy Cragars with spinners from the stock hubcaps Mockup.... No clearcoat on the body here, that's why it's not shiny.
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Picked this beauty up over the weekend.
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A great find. Thanks for sharing!
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Aftermarket parts for AMT 92-96 F-150 kit
av405 replied to Againmikewins's topic in Truck Aftermarket / Resin
I also share your love for this generation of trucks. As for aftermarket parts for these trucks, BNL Resins is your best bet. As an example, here's a set of 1992-1996 rims that they exclusively make: http://www.b-n-lresins.com/shoppingopencart/Aftermarket-resin-cast-1-24-1-25-scale-hobby-model--wheels/Ford-wheels-num-2-resin-cast-1-24-1-25-scale -
Every time I see a update I get a small chill up my spine and a big smile across my face. I can’t say anything more than anybody else has said in the past. Thank you for sharing and hope I maybe able to see this in person one day.
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Sad day indeed...
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1932 Ford Chopped 4-Door Sedan Conversion
Modelbuilder Mark replied to Dennis Lacy's topic in On The Workbench
oh so nice, great bodywork -
Great show so far Kurt, keep it going
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1932 Ford Chopped 4-Door Sedan Conversion
Lordmodelbuilder replied to Dennis Lacy's topic in On The Workbench
You make it look easy. Looking good Dennis! -
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What's the longest amount of time you waited for something you ordered and paid for?
Rusty92 replied to mikemodeler's topic in General
Very well said. I enjoy this community where everyone is quite often really helpful. Even to a newbie. Now to get back on topic. Once I ordered a Mercedes kit from Plaza Japan because it was super cheap; cheaper with shipping to get it from overseas! Anyway, took 4 weeks and I finally heard from them. They couldn’t deliver it so it got sent back to Japan. They then overnighted it at their expense and I had it in 2 days I think. So a month and 2 days. It was a long time! But they handled it awesome. -
1978 Dodge D100
Hard_2_Handle_454 replied to tuffone20's topic in Under Glass: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
Now I want this kit. -
This is a project that I've had in mind for quite some time and after recently acquiring 2 more Revell '32 Sedans I decided to make it happen. Follow along as I convert a Revell '32 2-Door Sedan into a chopped 4-Door! I started by removing the original door "B" post plus sections of the upper and lower window reveals 1/4" in either direction from the original door panel line. At this time I also marked the windshield posts and rear body to be chopped 1/8" which is about 3 scale inches. Both front and rear the chop cuts were laid out staggered and then the vertical separation lines cut through with the back of a new #11 blade. In the front the staggered cut allows the windshield post halves to be manipulated back together without having to stretch the roof and disrupt the original soft top insert detail. In the rear the staggered cuts are used because the ideal cutting locations for the side windows and rear window don't fall on a straight line. A bonus is that the staggered joints provide a far stronger glue joint than a straight butt-joint does. The shaded areas are then systematically removed until the top is separated. The fit of the top section is adjusted to make everything as lined up and square as possible. The top is glued back on using Zap-A-Gap CA and all of the joints are blended. The new 4-Door panel lines are cut in as well. The previously removed door "B" posts are now chopped to match and then the carefully cut into the body creating the new rear door posts. A second donor body is then marked to have its door "B" posts removed and enough window reveal area to fill in the gaps from removing the original posts. The donor door posts are then chopped and carefully cut into the body to form the new front door "B" posts. Next, lots and lots of careful filing and sanding to blend everything together. The original 2-Door door panel lines were filled in with strips of .020 x .020 square stock laid in like a diamond then sanded flush. The original door handle holes were filled and new door handle holes drilled in both doors. I also went ahead and corrected the interior panels to have a matching 4-Door layout. Lastly, a few mock ups to really get a look at how it looks!
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All I was going to do, was rough sand the putty, then thought I should open a door. I did the usual method of dragging a #11 blade in the door jamb, used the hot-wire to cut the interior door panel in about 1/100th the amount of time. Superglued in the door jamb, and some tiny pieces at the bulkhead (not seen here). I thought of using windshield wiper stainless steel, that stuff is getting to be replaced by one-unit plastic blade replacement parts, so get them while you can! I used the Dremel wheel to shape a pin, then bent with pliers. I was shocked how well this worked, never had a door open this wide without binding!
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I tried the nose on the body. From what I see the best way to paint this is glue the belly pan to the nose. Then paint the nose and body at the same time but not connected with tape or glue. If the fit is off a bit it shouldn't be noticed as the nose has that rubber seal all around it anyways.I also tried it with the chassis in the body and the belly pan goes over the frame so you can't glue the nose to the body first, it won't fit right. I will prime the nose and body white then paint both yellow at the same time but not connected as shown in the last picture.---John
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Got the decal art proof from Speedway decals. Looks great. Hood needs to be longer and narrower and roof needs to be longer but they will look good in the actual colors over foil.
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That looks awesome Tom as you did a great job on that build. I just love dem B-body Mopars!
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Love the clean engine; very nice detailing. Cool car!
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Big car, big motor, big fun!
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Thank you all !
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Thank you so much Paul !
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A sad day in F1. Met him when I was in Monaco at the race , it was one of the greatest days to be able to chat for 10min.The signed program is one of my greatest treasures in my collection.
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Can’t wait to see how it comes out.
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What's the longest amount of time you waited for something you ordered and paid for?
highway replied to mikemodeler's topic in General
This is a very interesting question Mike, and while about the only things I've actually paid for and ordered hobby related was a spray booth and a project center tool box for the booth to sit on, both came in a timely fashion within a few days to my mailbox, or in the case of the tool box to my local Walmart for store pickup. I know I've seen quite a few horror stories though where people have spent hundreds on kits or hobby related items and it ends up with them being cheated out of their hard earned money and many times resulting in PayPal disputes or even mail fraud or legal disputes and the main reason if I can't get something from a trusted site, a trusted seller I've dealt with, or my local hobby shop, I don't need it. I like to see what I'm buying before I buy it, look it over and "flip through the pages" so to speak before I make any purchase especially on resale kits I purchase. I don't understand how anyone in this hobby can cheat someone out of their hard earned and sometimes limited money because at least where I come from, modelers help other modelers out for the good of the hobby! -
Not too much to report... I found some time to start inserting rivets, talk about time consuming. Drill holes then insert rivets. I think I have about 6 hours into this part alone. I do like how it’s turning out. once I get this part done, time to polish. Thanks for looking Chris
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