What do model builders overlook that could improve their models?

[Jantrix]

Lately this has become my pet peeve. Slapping rust colored paint on a model does not make the car "weathered".

There are plenty of online tutorials on this subject, and it's do-able on any budget.

[Art Anderson]

Talk about a can of worms here!

Missed details (and I confess to them, OK?)

1) Wheels: Valve stems AND valve caps, along with wheel weights (you know, those lead weights for balancing wheels!)

2) Exhaust hangers--those extensions which keep exhaust pipes and mufflers from simply rattling loose and dragging on the pavement!

3) The wires hooking up headlights and turn signals

4) Gearshift linkages

5) headlight and other underhood wiring harnesses

6) Speedometer cables

7) Tail light wiring

8) brake lines, including the flexible hoses from frame or body to backing plates

9) emergency/parking brake handles at the dashboard

10) gearshift linkage

11) Clutch and brake pedal linkage

12) Fuel lines from tank to fuel pump, fuel pump to carburetor

13) Power steering lines

14) Brake lines (even ,master cylinders and the lines from that!) to wheel cylinders

15) PCV lines

16) Underhood wiring harnesses in general

17) On opening doors, the rather thin (no more than 3/8 inch edges of the door skin rolled and crimped.

18) Door lock buttons

19) Headlight wiring inside front fenders

20) Hood latches and hinges

21) Front seat adjustment levers when opening the doors]]

22) B- and C-pillar shapes when opening doors

23) headliner shapes

]

24) Internal windshield/back glass/door and quarter window reveals

25) Dome lights when the kit does not include them

26) Vacuum lines for cars having vacuum-operated windshield wipers

27) Windshield wiper motors on the likes of Model A's through 1936 Fords

28) Mechanical brake pull rods and cross-shafts of stock Model T's and Model A's

29) Speedometer cable

30) Rotary door lock details

31) Black rubber windshield wiper elements

32) Choke cables

33) Heater control cables

34) Air conditioner lines

35) Power steering hydraulic lines

36) Heater lines

37) Temperature instrument line

38) Oil pressure line

39) Ammeter wire

40) Automatic transmission dipstick

41) Engine oil dipstick

42) Heater hoses

43) Exhaust pipe/muffler clamps

44) Exposed headlight and taillight wiring on pre-1935 cars

45 Horns on cars which model kits omit them (and the wiring)

46) Bijur chassis oiling systems on Classic luxury cars that had them

47) Leather or metal "wraps" on leaf springs for luxury cars from the 20's and 30's

48) Underhood wiring harnesses in general

49) Ignition wires to ingition coils

50) Wires to generator or alternator

I've probably missed a bunch, so feel free to add to the list!

Art

[CJ1971]

Pet peeve.... People who say/comment : Great job! Nice work! Fantastic! Superb! Awesome! - when in reality the model they're commenting on is rubbish, poorly put together & you could pick it apart all day because of all it's flaws. They should do what I do... Don't say anything.

Pet peeve 2 : builders/modellers who can't or don't appreciate constructive criticism, especially when it's clear they're amateurs or beginners.

Pet Peeve 3: other modellers/builders who criticise you for constructive criticism.

[Draggon]

To add to what Bill said on wheels, wonky camber, massive toe-in or out, wheels that stick out past the bead of the tires, and all four tires pointing in different directions. Good grief. I frequently see the build up of what looks like and exceptional model, then when the finished pics show up, the dang wheels ruin it all.

[CJ1971]

Talk about a can of worms here!

Missed details (and I confess to them, OK?)

1) Wheels: Valve stems AND valve caps, along with wheel weights (you know, those lead weights for balancing wheels!)

2) Exhaust hangers--those extensions which keep exhaust pipes and mufflers from simply rattling loose and dragging on the pavement!

3) The wires hooking up headlights and turn signals

4) Gearshift linkages

5) headlight and other underhood wiring harnesses

6) Speedometer cables

7) Tail light wiring

8) brake lines, including the flexible hoses from frame or body to backing plates

9) emergency/parking brake handles at the dashboard

10) gearshift linkage

11) Clutch and brake pedal linkage

12) Fuel lines from tank to fuel pump, fuel pump to carburetor

13) Power steering lines

14) Brake lines (even ,master cylinders and the lines from that!) to wheel cylinders

15) PCV lines

16) Underhood wiring harnesses in general

17) On opening doors, the rather thin (no more than 3/8 inch edges of the door skin rolled and crimped.

18) Door lock buttons

19) Headlight wiring inside front fenders

20) Hood latches and hinges

21) Front seat adjustment levers when opening the doors]]

22) B- and C-pillar shapes when opening doors

23) headliner shapes

]

24) Internal windshield/back glass/door and quarter window reveals

25) Dome lights when the kit does not include them

26) Vacuum lines for cars having vacuum-operated windshield wipers

27) Windshield wiper motors on the likes of Model A's through 1936 Fords

28) Mechanical brake pull rods and cross-shafts of stock Model T's and Model A's

29) Speedometer cable

30) Rotary door lock details

31) Black rubber windshield wiper elements

32) Choke cables

33) Heater control cables

34) Air conditioner lines

35) Power steering hydraulic lines

36) Heater lines

37) Temperature instrument line

38) Oil pressure line

39) Ammeter wire

40) Automatic transmission dipstick

41) Engine oil dipstick

42) Heater hoses

43) Exhaust pipe/muffler clamps

44) Exposed headlight and taillight wiring on pre-1935 cars

45 Horns on cars which model kits omit them (and the wiring)

46) Bijur chassis oiling systems on Classic luxury cars that had them

47) Leather or metal "wraps" on leaf springs for luxury cars from the 20's and 30's

48) Underhood wiring harnesses in general

49) Ignition wires to ingition coils

50) Wires to generator or alternator

I've probably missed a bunch, so feel free to add to the list!

Art

It's a hobby, Art, building plastic model cars, not real 1:1s. There is only so much a builder wants or can do to his/her model. Not EVERYONE wants or needs their build/model to look "real" or builds to enter/win modelling contests. Most of what you've listed is unrealistic for modellers who build for themselves & for fun... It's a hobby... Not a professional career.

[Art Anderson]

It's a hobby, Art, building plastic model cars, not real 1:1s. There is only so much a builder wants or can do to his/her model. Not EVERYONE wants or needs their build/model to look "real" or builds to enter/win modelling contests. Most of what you've listed is unrealistic for modellers who build for themselves & for fun... It's a hobby... Not a professional career.

Nonetheless,

The question is what gets ignored (omitted), and I've laid out a list, most of which I have neglected to do, for whatever reasons!

Art

[CJ1971]

Nonetheless,

The question is what gets ignored (omitted), and I've laid out a list, most of which I have neglected to do, for whatever reasons!

Art

It's not a question of ignorance, Art, it's a question of choice. Most of what's on your list falls into the "highly detailed" category. We don't all need to add that much detail and in most cases, most of those little details go unseen, therefore people choose not to add them or fuss over them. ??

[southpier]

I think it's a great checklist. pick one or two to add per build and before you know it ..... you'll be counting the rivets on the boiler!

[W-409]

Great thing mentioned here so far!

One thing that comes to my mind is.... Lack of Research. Maybe the best example is when I see Drag Cars being built... There are lots of "Pro Stocks" that have really nothing to do with real Pro Stock Drag Cars. Same thing with many different categories, like Gassers, Super Stockers, Altereds, Factory Experimental cars etc. People spend a lot of time to build their model, but they can't spend 15 minutes to find out what class their car would go in.

[John Goschke]

Translucent milky white plastic whitewall inserts! Just because they're molded in white doesn't mean they look realistic. Hit 'em with a few coats of Tamiya white surface primer, or something, for crying out loud!

[Foxer]

This is a great thread for those just looking to improve their building ... great suggestions, guys!

[Mark]

Basics...not filling seams between parts, not removing ejector pin marks or trademark information. Especially when there's a ton-o-money in aftermarket parts tacked on the same car. Ghost marks from unused cut lines on the underside of hoods would fit in here too.

No inner fenders...being able to look at a car from one side, and see daylight from the other side. Same goes with seeing the inside of the interior when the hood is opened (or removed).

Those pre-manufactured "distributors" that look like a couple of pieces of tubing stacked together, with the wires clumped together and stuck into the top.

Incorrect class markings on drag cars...a fenderless T-bucket is not a gasser. A little research can save a lot of embarrassment; you don't have to leaf through an attic full of musty old magazines to get good info any more.

Those "hot knife" Pro Street conversions, where the chassis is assembled and a different body dropped on without lining up the wheel openings or reworking the roll cage. A lot of those have cages that are nearly half an inch below the inside of the roof, with the driver staring ahead into the firewall or cowl.

Seventies luxury cars with the basic "alternator and water pump" fan belt.

[Dale W. Verts]

But the original question was not "what", but "Why" do folks not do these things mentioned. Unclescott says he hates BMF. Therein lies the issue- some folks simply have comfort levels. Me, I'm still new enough (again) that pushin' the envelope, especially when the envelope is a real time-killer, is hard to do.

Bottom line- some folks don't do things to make their models look more "real" because they don't have/want to. As said many time in my short tenure here, as long as YOUR happy then everything's good.

I have nine models started since January. One is finished. Where does that put me?

Dale

[Mark]

I didn't see "why" in the original post, just an observation that some things aren't done. Some things aren't done because the builder didn't think to do them, others because the builders don't think they are up to that particular challenge yet. Other times, they've got the idea to do something, and they want to just get it finished and move on to the next idea. One guy I know will have an idea, and stay with it until it's finished, perfect or not. He gets things done. I've got a great talent for "thinking things to a standstill", and don't get as much done as I'd like.

[Dale W. Verts]

The TITLE of the post was "why".

Dale

[Ace-Garageguy]

But the original question was not "what", but "Why" ...

Actually, the original question (the title of the thread) seems to be this:

"What do model builders overlook that could improve their models?"

Started by sjordan2, Yesterday, 03:45 P

Edited July 27, 2014 by Ace-Garageguy

[10thumbs]

WHEELS! Along with other wheel tips, I notice this one a lot;

Guys, make the wheels fit in the tires better.

Michael

[southpier]

(Mark B - still can't clip 'n' paste in this forum) - I think some folks (projecting here) don't add a ton of detail because it's intimidating when taken as a whole.

but if there's one piece at a time included, the sum result is manageable.

I've clipped & pasted Art's list into word, may even get it into XL, in order to use it as a stepping stone to improve.

*hope that's not a copyright infringement; if I get sued it won't amount to much.

[Tom Geiger]

I could write a volume on things people do wrong when weathering / rusting a model! And the amateur work actually takes from the seriousness of those of us who strive to do these right. Some of them look like they took the body and put it in a bag of rust and shook it. We call those the "Shake and Bake" beaters.

But since the thread is about details you can add...

Seat belts! How many people leave these out? Here's a simple pair, buckles made from Evergreen, belt itself made from ribbon. 1/16" ribbon that you can buy on eBay as a craft item will give you a mile of it for cheap money. For buckles you can even take those styrene seat belts out of a 1960s annual. Sand the buckle thinner from behind, then cut it off the plastic belt. Or photo etch.. I love the photo etch male ends, but if you use the photo etch buckle, you'll need to put some plastic behind it for thickness. I see too many models with just that thin photo etch piece sitting on the seat.

Two more things you can do with seats... 1. Install your head rests at different heights. 2. Mount your bucket seats in different positions. For instance, the drivers seat with the headrest set higher, and the seat all the way back in the track? It just adds interest.

People already mentioned valve stems and interior lock plungers. Very easy to make with a short length of ignition wire. I save the bits I cut off my final fit of distributors and use them for these details. Just drill a little hole. Insert the black wire and glue from behind for a clean installation.

Headliners, rear view mirrors and sun visors! Here's a finished headliner that was installed into my Chevette. It started life as a business card that had a light pattern in the card stock. Cut it to size and shape, painted it flat black and glued it to the clear runner that attaches the front and rear windows. Mirror came from the kit, but if you don't have one, it's nothing more than a small plastic rectangle you can mount on a bit of wire. I make my own sun visors from scrap plastic. This one isn't perfect but once it's glued into the model, the imperfections can't be seen from the viewing angle.

License plates! I make mine on the Acme Platemaker on the Internet. They have all states and many, many of the individual designs by era and special plate styles. You type in the text you want. Reduce that image to .23 (I use Word to do that) and print. I print mine on 60 lb card stock. Great finishing touch on any model. This one has a Model Car Garage photo etch license frame.

Hope these help someone!

Edited July 27, 2014 by Tom Geiger

[blunc]

Art has given us a comprehensive list that I agree with. For those of us building "scale model cars" this list is something to aspire to.

For those of you building "3D Art", this thread is not for you.

There have been suggestions/claims that we should "build for fun", most of the people watching this thread who that think it's "fun" to add a lot of detail usually don't pick apart builds that plainly don't want to include details that other builders enjoy seeing or adding themselves (this has been covered in other threads before).

There are times when I see/hear comments of "Oh...I don't do all that detail stuff, I only build for fun.", and while I keep my thoughts to myself (except for this time) it makes it sound like those of us that like to add the fiddly bits are NOT having fun... I have a suggestion... GET A CLUE! BUY A VOWEL! USE A LIFELINE!!!! We ARE having fun adding details and building "SCALE MODEL CARS".

PS. Thank you Tom for the photos that illustrate your points.

[Danno]

A lot of territory has been covered in this thread and all the observations are on-target (except those rationalizations for not detailing ~ that was not the topic. No one has suggested anyone MUST detail a model.)

A couple of the most frequent but most glaring flaws have already been mentioned ~ [1] visible injector pin marks (especially on interior floors and chassis), [2] decals spanning door and panel breaks, [3] visible mold parting lines on oil pans, transmissions, radiators, small parts, [4] wildly mismatched panels, doors, hoods {see Tom's '57 Ford in the post above - sorry, Tom}, [5] grotesquely oversized spark plug wiring {especially when it looks like garden hose connecting distributors to spark plugs}, [6] absence of chrome on wipers, door handles, lock cylinders, emblems, and window trim, and [7] absence of blackwash on grilles and cowl vents, etc.

Add: [8] visible, unpainted areas (such as undersides of hoods or interior buckets that show in transmission tunnels, [9] unfilled or untreated gaps in seats, and [10] sloppy gluing, smudging, fingerprinting.

From my experience, those are probably the Top Ten factors (along with careful preparation, clean building, nice paint, and pre-build research) that make and demonstrate the difference between mediocre builds and good, very good, and great builds.

[Guest]

The omission of panel lines. Especially between the fender and rocker panel. Anyone should be able to scribe a line 4-5 mms long. Another is between the fender and cowl panel. Again, this isn't a very long line to scribe in. There's others. But these are the major offenders.

A mistake I see too often is when builders deepen or blackwash (ugh) panel lines on a model that shouldn't be. If the panels on the real car are bolted or welded together, they should not be deepened and especially not blackwashed. My rule of thumb is if it doesn't open or have at least a 1/4 inch gap on the real car, I leave it alone.

Chrome windshield wipers/arms. Wipers/ arms are not chrome. The only time I ever saw chrome wiper arms was back in the '90s. They usually had double blades too. Also, all wiper blades are black. It only takes a minute to paint the edge of a wiper blade flat black.

Antennas. If your model has a radio in the dash, it should have an antenna too.

[unclescott58]

After reading the posts from both Mike Cassidy and Danno. I would like everybody to ignore my first posting on this topic. It really does not belong here. And I apologize, I tend to forget that just because I don't enjoy detailing, that others do. Enough said. Back to the subject at hand.

Scott

[Dr. Cranky]

I'm sure I am repeating this by now, but sanding those tires is very important, killing that new tire look.

[Harry P.]

I'm sure I am repeating this by now, but sanding those tires is very important, killing that new tire look.

Sanding the tread area. Leaving the sidewalls shiny isn't necessarily wrong... it's the "Armor All" look...