fseva

That "milkiness" sounds like what happens with other acrylics - I have a flat black manufactured by Vallejo for Micro-Mark, and after it sits in its bottle for a while (I transferred some to a small glass bottle for use), you can see the white milky stuff has separated from the color. A good shaking will mix the two and it will go on well until it starts separating again, which doesn't take long, especially if you're doing a relatively large area. My suggestion would be to shake it real good and dip your brush right into the container that was shaken; then, shake again when you see the compone

Thanks for letting me know, Steve! I was able to download 2 of these photos, crop them (to save on file size), and saved them to my photos folder. Now, if the photos were bad, everyone would be having problems viewing/downloading them, right? One other thing, did the photo get saved in .jpg or .jpeg format - they are the same but some programs can't handle the longer file type extension, and will say that the file is corrupted, etc.

The model and the tires look great!

Steve, it's a beauty... but I don't think you mentioned what you started with... It's obviously not AMT's 1960 Starliner... so, it must be a resin body... right? I'm thinking it could be the resolution your monitor is set to. Try some other settings and see if the photos don't get unsquashed. It could also be that Photobucket is sending the uncompressed photos to your screen, and they're getting squashed so that they fit the size of the window that's running the MCM website...

I did find one seller on eBay that had the original, but I sent him an email to ask how old his stock was, and to get his opinion on why this one is so hard to find (even out of stock at BM!)

It would seem that I am wrong as far as the original stuff's availability - my 2 favorite sources are currently showing it "back-ordered". I'll keep on looking, but who's to say if and when the original stuff comes back, it won't be changed for the worse...

Yes, they're beautiful! Now, all John would have to do is determine a price and see if they'd ship to the USA... I could not find that at their website (the 2 languages that are supported other than German are UK/English/Euros and Dutch)...

I'm pretty sure only Testors made them with metal bodies...

Gotcha... but do you really have that many to choose from? I could only find kits by Revell for anything newer than 2006... Lindberg also makes one Yes, the cop cars... and Testors made one, but they have a metal body...

Huh? What Charger isn't already a 2-door? Anything 2006 or newer Wow - am I feeling stupid... I never realized there is a second door back there! So, I take it you want to eliminate the back door and make it a... hatchback, perhaps? No I want to make it into what a real Charger should be, a 2 door sport roof. A hatch back would have a (wait for it).....................................hatch Gotcha... but do you really have that many to choose from? I could only find kits by Revell for anything newer than 2006...

Huh? What Charger isn't already a 2-door? Anything 2006 or newer Wow - am I feeling stupid... I never realized there is a second door back there! So, I take it you want to eliminate the back door and make it a... hatchback, perhaps?

Perhaps it's "thin" because there's so much metal in it, and the only way to get it through the nozzle is to really thin the paint!?

The only thing I can think of relates to the semi-gloss clear... I've had trouble with it, too, and it hasn't always turned out looking semi-gloss; perhaps because the aerosol has a tendency to spray too much material. The more you pile up, the shinier it gets. That even happens with Dull Cote. And the problem you're having certainly sounds like there is too much material there. I say give it a couple days to cure, and check it again. Are you sure the enamel was fully cured before you used the semi-gloss? You might also consider decanting and airbrushing it lightly the next time.

Huh? What Charger isn't already a 2-door?

I sure DID! The wood has been distressed considerably. OK - distressed it is, for sure! Keep up the good (bad) work!

Cheers Frank, time consuming and frustrating is all I can say about BMF, I used the 'Ultra Bright Chrome' and I'm not really keen on the stuff because it wrinkles as soon as you peel it off the backing paper making it twice as hard to get the desired result, the old 'New Improved Chrome' I never had a problem with I've been using the Ultra Bright, as well, and I never thought it could be the difference between it and the "New improved" chrome. I think they're still selling the previous version... unless the stock is really old and the adhesive is shot, maybe this is my answer, too. Oh and btw

You didn't sand through the wood trim, did you? (see red box below) This is mine... I believe the order was mask the wood; paint the others; remove mask; remask the others; spray base coat on wood; remove mask; finish with hand-brushing the panels...

Hey... are we alone? I want to tell you a secret... that Black you're using... I ruined... not 1... but 2 bodies, using this paint for the first time... got real mad and sent Testors a nasty letter, saying that there has to be something wrong with the paint, because it all flowed into the depressions, and the metal pooled up there! Anyroad, you sure said it right when you said that their cans leave something to be desired! I wish someone there would start to bring the company into the current century. They need a whole new aerosol method - something like Tamiya would be great. And along with

That's really beautiful! I am constantly amazed when I see BMF being used on the trim around the wheel wells... I can just imagine how hard that is - another reason why I've never attempted it!

If that is the case, you can expect more demands from your compressor, since it takes more juice to get the paint up that tube and into the atomizing chamber...

Hmmm... there must be a way around the built-in exhaust because if you notice in the photo, there's a short pipe right behind the front tires...

I believe that's their regular line. I've used the Professional lacquer clear coat and I'm not sure if I can tell a difference!? However, it's a moot point for me, now that I've started to use Exact Match clear for my finish on Duplicolor projects.

No, this is not on the AMT preferred list of "modern tools". I've been dying to do a different kind of Bel Air, and this one caught my eye; also because it's my favorite year for the Bel Air. Anyone who has built it - are there any negatives to report about the build?

Well, the need for more pressure would mainly be apparent if you're trying to spray really heavy paints, like most acrylics. If you're always spraying lacquers, which you can really reduce without damaging the paint's chemistry, you may never need the extra pressure. I would suggest you keep using your current compressor until you come to a paint that simply refuses to atomise.

Is that Duplicolor or Duplicolor Professional clear (both in rattle cans)?