Fat Brian

Yeah, that could be done but it looks like that will cut the whole front of the chassis plate off. It will take careful trimming to get everything lined back up and playing nice together. Definitely a PITA.

For me it's not really the lack of an engine as much as it is the inability to easily change the ride height. Most things I'd want to do to a van require either raising or lowering it. The questionable front end proportions don't help either, especially when there are better options.

I am well and truly disappointed then. Not only is it another Chevy van, the design choices for a full open kit and a slab chassis mean this one is about completely off my radar.

So is the new tooling they didn't reveal earlier this year?

Thank you, that does help. The last time I was doing much 3d modeling the game would slow down if your vehicle was over about 3000 vertices so I was in the habit of working very economically. The main axle tube in particular is very light on vertices. I was also working in the .blend format so I may switch to .obj and see how it does. Here's what a 3000 vertice vehicle like.

Yeah, I cut the hole with a boolean and also merged a few objects. It does seem to add a lot of chaos to the model so I might try to redo some things differently.

I made the hole a tad bigger than the rod, if I can get this figured out I will do a test print to make sure its the right size.

So I noticed it only fills the hole in if I repair the model in Lychee slicer. If I just add the supports it leaves it but there is some ugliness I need to fix. This is the first model I've built in Blender so I'm still figuring out best practices.

I need help putting a hole all the way through a model. I've cut a 2mm hole through the model in Blender but when I run it through the slicer it seals the hole a few millimeters down each axle tube. I'm trying to make it where I can put a metal rod through the axle for support. Are there any tricks to stop the slicer from trying to repair something that I want to be there?

This gives me ideas...

I've used it with good results. You should only use it over other duplicolor paints, it will wrinkle most other brands. You also need to be mindful of the humidity, duplicolor in general doesn't like very humid conditions and will blush if the humidity is too high. I've switched almost exclusively to duplicolor paints, you can get great results as long as you work within the limitations of the product.

Yes, its supposed to be.

Thanks for the update, I will certainly be one of your first customers.

I agree, the doors being on the left side also give it away.

I'm looking for the custom grille out of the AMT Xtasy or Sun Chaser kits. I've got plenty to trade.

That's better than that kit has any right to look, amazing work.

I slapped this together from leftover parts from an upcoming 67 Shelby GT500 build. Its built in "day 2" style, maybe somebody pulled some strings or was buddies with the local Ford dealer and got a 65 K-code engine installed in an early production 66 Fairlane. I filled the GT hood vents and added wheel lip moldings and ones behind the rear wheels to complete the 500XL trim. I also added a wood rim steering wheel. The 67 Shelby donated its 289 and Magstar wheels. I also raised the upper edge of the roof to look more correct. I cut 2.5mm out of the front edge of the roof the added a 1mm strip back and shaped it into the top window trim. It looks better but the windshield is pretty distorted in that area.

I second the white primer.

If you don't have any particular attachment to the AMT kit the Revell kit is superior in just about every way. There was an SS 396 version out very recently and should be relatively easy to find. That kit, the Yenko, COPO, and Baldwin Motion versions all have big blocks. Most of the difference is in the wheels and hoods though there are a few other things. Most if not every version of this comes with both grilles. Here is pic of the SS 396 box art.

You shouldn't even have to remove it, the stock grille just sits in front of it.

Can you try to heat that lower portion and use the stock grille insert to open the hole to where it needs to be? As long as the body isn't twisted lengthwise the grille area looks fixable.

This thread has what the distributor expects to have in the next few months for AMT/MPC. There should be something similar for Revell soon. https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/203358-round-2-announcements-as-of-91225-from-stevens-intl/

I'm looking for the front and rear spoilers from the Revell 71 Boss Mustang kit. I've got plenty to trade.

I understand not wanting to lose control of your designs. Charles would be a great custodian of you're work until you find something permanent, everything I've gotten from him is of the highest quality.

Based on the 69 Cougar it will have all the normal parts plus some big wheels and maybe some Hotwheels style engine dress up parts. It probably won't have any stock decals though.