Fat Brian

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I noticed that too, along with the Stranger Things Camaro not having chrome. I hope this isn't cost cutting from Revell.

I might be mistaken but don't those kits have the V903 in them?

I would go with the lighter shade of yellow, Camel Yellow is almost orange. There's another color, I want to say TS16 maybe, thats closer. This is the lighter color.

For the tin work the easiest way is CAD, cardboard aided design. Not actually cardboard at our scale but thick card stock can be trimmed to fit and the shaped traced onto Evergreen sheet. For the windows, if you have a lady in your life buy her a decent size makeup palette and it will come with a crystal clear, paper thin sheet of plastic big enough for several kits.

I've got a couple. 1981 Cobra from the birth year Cannonball This one is from the turn a race car into a street car Cannonball

I've heard that a Saleen spoiler is in the Monogram 88 convertible kit with the red car on a blue box, I don't know if there are any other parts out there though. The side skirts look close to what is in the 93 Cobra R.

I tried the hairspray thing but even with three coats the top layer of paint is firmly attached. I had shot some rust colored paint over the red primer and it had a bit too much texture and I think the green had enough to bite to that it wasn't going to budget. Yeah, I don't know what is going on with the windows, its not as noticeable as long as you aren't looking through both at the same time.

One of the Issues you're going to have is getting the front low enough. If you look at how the front axles are laid out in some of the pics Greg posted you can see how the leaf spring isn't over the axle but between the front radius rods. I don't know of any kit or aftermarket parts with this layout. When I built this type of front end I used the front spring and axle from the 30 kit but made the cross bar the spring perch mounts on taller, this effectively lowered the front end to what is possible with the spring mounted behind the axle.

This is loosely based on a truck I've driven passed at work for years. The color is the same but I took some liberties with the engine and wheels since the actual wheels are boring and I don't know what the engine is. This engine is a mix of parts from the Revell 60 and 62 Impalas with the truck transmission. The air cleaners are from the USA-1 monster truck. The wheels and tires are from a recent release of the Revell 57 Chevy with some parts box adapters. The suspension is lowered 4mm in the front and 2 in the rear. I rebuilt the bed top rails with Evergreen since the ones in the kit were very warped and uneven. The engine swap was more difficult than I expected considering the W block came in this body style of truck. The engine doesn't play nice with the motor mounts on the frame and the exhaust manifolds point right at the lower control arms.

I play on PS 4/5 and pc but try to limit it, my model collection is to the point that it's hard to justify spending time on other hobbies.

I remember something would fail in the rear suspension of these cars, particularly in rust belt areas, and cause the rear axle wander a bit.

Get the banhammer out, I just got this one.

We get a lot of questions about 3d scanning various model parts, I saw this video and thought it would show the current state of the technology and the process for using the scans. I was pretty impressed with the quality of the scan. It also seems to be able to merge a top and bottom scan into one piece, it would be interesting to know the limitation of that ability. https://youtu.be/VZAdJ-PbDnQ?si=oIUU6wqrFIhIlIc3

There are two pieces that look like covers for the rear wheel houses. I just ended up gluing the rear door closed, it would be a heavy lift to make something decent in there.

I try to make the interior look like it could accommodate a person but the amount effort does correlate to how visible the finished product is. I've spent weeks making a custom interior for a Peterbilt that is almost completely invisible now that it's done, lesson learned.

If that's the case you might want to close these accounts too, someone approached me with a similar offer a while back.

You're in luck, Aoshima is making a set of four lug slots right now. The rears are wider than the fronts so you might need two sets unless you don't mind the wider meats out back.

It still baffles me that no one knows or even bothers to research what the options are in a given kit. The "351 Windsor" engine in the Cougar sure looks a lot like the 428 from the original version of the kit. It is a good deal to get two complete engines in a kit anymore but I wish it had stock decals too.

Most Japanese kits started out more as motorized toys than model kits, you can still see some vestigial parts in older kits from the big three companies. I think the Japanese market just got used to curbsides because the space was used for electric motors and batteries. While Tamiya specifically does put engines in some of its modern kits it's certainly not all and there doesn't seem to be any local market pressure to change since the other companies still primarily release curbsides.

I have a Phrozen Mini S, its my first printer and the prints from it were perfect. Don't be like me, buy a big printer.

I've seen that same style of fan in other Chevy kits with other engines, it was probably just an off the shelf part for the time that got installed on most vehicles.

I put a little piece of plastic on the bottom I could grab with an alligator clip. You might could grab it with one of those things used to hold wires for soldering that sits on the desk.

If you want to build something as long as the rollback I would just get a C600 stake bed kit and use the whole chassis, the L700 Dodge kit is a pretty short chassis. You will also need to move the front axle forward since it is set back for the cab over cab.